Do I have this correct, preparing bowl blanks

[Scott Brandstetter]

As I stated in another thread, came into more wood from downed trees. I want to make sure I process it correctly for future bowl turning. This is my process

1. Cut the tree into sections that are larger than I plan the blanks to be when complete
2. Cut each log so that the pith is removed.
3. Leave the logs longer than needed and add several coats of Anchorseal
4. Leave on rack for air circulation and check occasionally for cracks

I would appreciate any comments on better methods or changes to my plans

[Prashun Patel]

4. Leave on rack with minimal (but not zero) airflow, protected from sun and weather and humidity and temperature fluctuations and check occasionally for cracks and mold.
5. Don't get discouraged if you don't get 100% yield or if your results vary depending on your species or time of year. This is not an art, but the variables are numerous enough that it can feel not so much like controllable science.

[charlie knighton]

that sounds good, but nothing is 100%.....you can have wood with wind shake in it that you can not see til you turn it.....try to store out of the sun, I cover my stack with a tarp. if you want to spalt keep wet or on ground, turning occasionally

[Phil Rose]

I see much higher success rate if I rough turn rather than store in split log form. I will say now that I'm cutting out more of the pith I get slightly better in unturned, but still not as good.

[Dennis Ford]

All of the above is good advise for SHORT term storage, long term storage = lots of degrade. I agree with Phil, stored as rough-outs is better than stored as log or half log.
One month would be short term, one year would be long term; results between those times depends on conditions etc.

[Thom Sturgill]

I'll add one more comment. Turn green to finish when you can. Turning green to finish is the best way to preserve the 'fresh' col oration of the wood. Many woods will lose much of their color when dried, especially if kiln dried. John Jordan discusses this in some of his videos and several other noted artists work wet to finish.

[Reed Gray]

I used to cut the logs up like that, but now I just leave the logs whole and cover them. Maybe some day I will win the lottery and have a special 'drive in' storage room with controlled temperature and humidity, and bug free. I don't like the logs to sit for more than about 6 months. A lot of deterioration can happen, even when the weather is mild. I have more success this way. Cut a little off the end, and the rest is good to go.

I do prefer to turn green to final thickness. I love the warped bowls...

robo hippy

[Scott Brandstetter]

I'm glad I started this thread, learning a lot. To those that turn and store as rough cuts, do you seal the end grain or the entire blank after rough cutting? Any special storage at that point?

[Prashun Patel]

I agree that kiln dried wood can lose coloration, but in my experience, air dried walnut, cherry do not sacrifice any color degradation vis-a-vis green to finish bowls. This varies from tree to tree, but I've had some twice turned cherry bowls and walnut turn darker than I ever experienced with kiln.

In fact, air-dried cherry and oak (at least) can *develop* some nice coloration or character as spalting begins.

In fact, I've had some maple bowl blanks develop brown spots when turned too green. Letting the blank or rough-out dry properly eliminates that; the browning doesn't seem to appear on dry-turned maple for me.

[Glen Blanchard]

To those that turn and store as rough cuts, do you seal the end grain or the entire blank after rough cutting? Any special storage at that point?

I don't do any sealing at all. I wrap the roughed out blank in newspaper, leaving an opening in the newspaper to the inside of the bowl or HF for air circulation. I have had great success using this technique. YMMV.

[Larry Matchett]

Everything molds in the south even anchor seal. I usually rough turn when I can except for hollow forms that I turn green to final. Green turned bowls can turn into ovals but then folks like them also. There is a technique to turning green to final finish. Turn to final thickness. Soak with paint thinner on the inside and out on the lathe. Turn lathe on about 1200 rpm and let run for 30 minutes. Final sand and put finish on inside and out. Take off lathe finish the bottom put finish on and let dry. This must be done in one sitting. I usually turn to 1/4 to 3/8 thickness when doing this. As soon as the finish is dry enough to put on another coat of finish do so. You will sometimes get some warping depending on species but very seldom cracks. I live in a high humidity area. Seems to work for me.