Cutting up downed trees, could use some help

[Scott Brandstetter]

I seem to have an evolving series of threads, access to down trees, how to seal blanks, and now.......how to cut up blanks. I recently posted that I came home with several cut logs from a recently downed tree. I was excited at the thought of having some of my own blanks for turning. Once I got the chain saw out, I was disappointed in the end results.

I had several species of logs and each were 12 inches diameter to 18 inches. After cutting out the pith, I really ended up with some smaller blanks. Did I do something wrong or is the fact that I simply need larger diameter logs to get bigger blanks. This probably sounds silly (even as I type) but wondering if I am missing something. Thanks in advance for the help

[Tom Giacomo]

No your not missing anything it takes a large log to get a sizeable bowl after splitting it and taking out the pith. Most of the logs I'm getting now days are 8 to16 inch in diameter. So I have been experimenting in pith to pith turning, that is mounting the log between centers using the pith centers. So far I have about 4 large vases and I'm waiting for them to completely dry before I call it a success. I remove all of the pith from the vase and use a plug for the bottom, it's very easy to do.

[Reed Gray]

Well, if you want a 16 inch diameter bowl, you generally need an 18 or more inch diameter tree. The standard fire wood lengths tend to be about 16 inch, so with them, it doesn't mater much how wide they are. My best seller 'family' sized bowls are in the 12 to 14 inch diameter range, and anything much over that size is a lot harder to sell unless you are tuned into that specialty market.

Leaving the pith in is a guarantee that it will crack eventually. You can stabilize them some what, but not totally, so any knot or pith is a weak spot waiting for a little stress before it cracks. end grain pieces are not quite as bad in this respect.

robo hippy

[Scott Brandstetter]

Thanks for the replies so far. I want to clarify a few things. I realize that from a 14 inch diameter log I can get roughly a 12 inch diameter bowl but it seems that with the dimensions of the log, it only leaves side that are very short, 2 inches or so, unless I am turning a natural edge bowl which would have higher edges on two sides. Again, I am new to cutting my own blanks so I have a lot to learn. I occasionally buy blanks from ebay that are roughly 5 inches thick by 12 or so wide. How big of a tree or log would these have to come from?

[Reed Gray]

Scott,
To get the biggest and deepest bowls, you generally use your center cut, which removes the pith, as the top of the bowl, and the bark side as the bottom of the bowl. Sounds like you are trying to use the center of the log as the bottom of the bowl, and using the same orientation that you use for natural edge bowls. So, if you start with 14 inches, this should leave you with a 6 or so inch deep by 12 inch diameter bowl.

robo hippy

[Thom Sturgill]

Cutting as Reed says, it should be noted that the sides of the blank will not be square to the top all the way around like the ones you buy but sloped on two sides. This means it is not completely balanced, but not as bad as you might think either.

Start the black between centers with the top toward the tailstock. As you get the bark off and can evaluate the grain, you can re-orient so that the grain presents at its best. Once re-oriented you can square off the face/top and make a temporary chuck mounting (large recess works well here) so that you can reverse the block into a chuck and shape the outside/foot/tenon without the tailstock in the way. Reverse again to hollow and again to remove the tenon.

I saw Ashly Harwood use this procedure and was quite impressed, though it does require two chucks, one with large jaws that you might normally use for platters. The normal method is to mount the top end toward the headstock, work with the tailstock until you reverse into a chuck to hollow sometimes using a screw chuck to initially hold. Either way, if you start between centers you can reorient to get the best grain pattern and that will give better looking bowls.

[Thomas Canfield]

You can also cut the blanks about 1.5 x D to make some natural edge bowls. I like to turn these since they give appearance of a bigger bowl, but can be easier stored on a shelf. The natural edge, even without bark, can have a nice appearance or be enhanced with burning or other work. I just made 3 blanks out of a 14" D x 18"L ash section by cutting into pie thirds and then cutting off the triangular pith section of each blank. Bowls should end up just under 18"L x 12" W, where otherwise I would have 2 bowls about 12" max D.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Tonight I pulled out the first "bowl" I turned roughly 9 months ago. I'm so thankful that someone recomended I never throw it away and keep it to mark my progress. While I laughed a bit, noticing all of the errors, I realized I turned it from a fresh fallen cedar tree not knowing a thing about the pith and how to cut up blanks. I turned this bowl, end grain I think they call it, from a 10 inch blank from the tree. Obviously, I cut straight into the pith and it is still there, no cracking at all.

Question is, did I simply get lucky? Can I do the same with other species? One of the amazing things is that the bowl has incredible color. It still has the sapwood (I think thats what it's called) as well as the deep wood on the inside of the bowl. Any comments would be appreciated.

[Pat Scott]

I think you got lucky with the Cedar bowl if you turned it end grain and the pith hasn't cracked. Personally I wouldn't try that again unless you are prepared for it to crack, and then are prepared to fill the crack(s). Once you fill a crack, it's more a decorative bowl instead of utility bowl that will have food in it and get washed. Glue or filling of any kind doesn't mix well with wood movement and soap and water. It might work for a year or two, but will eventually fail.