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Thread: straight-line rip of long boards on cabinet saw - looking for ideas

  1. #61
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Orbine View Post
    Huh??? The jointer will work if properly set up! I've done 16' boards on a 6' jointer!
    I second that. a former employer showed me how to nib off the toe and heal on the concave side first then make your final passes. Or, I've see him use the convex side and holding equal pressure on either side of the board, starting with creating a flat in the middle and gradually running more and more of the the middle until you've reached the toe and heel then making your final passes. before getting my 8 inch jointer, I used to have to have everything straightline ripped,...not any more thanks to the jointer and watching my boss....

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
    Posts
    2,340
    Quote Originally Posted by sean schriver View Post
    I second that. a former employer showed me how to nib off the toe and heal on the concave side first then make your final passes. Or, I've see him use the convex side and holding equal pressure on either side of the board, starting with creating a flat in the middle and gradually running more and more of the the middle until you've reached the toe and heel then making your final passes. before getting my 8 inch jointer, I used to have to have everything straightline ripped,...not any more thanks to the jointer and watching my boss....
    Sure, you can do it. But why would you when a single straight line cut on a simple TS sled does the job? I had 10' 5/4 boards weighing 28-30 lbs that were as much as 3/4" crooked. I cannot envision how "nibbing off" 3/4" at 1/16" per pass times 2 ends on a board of that size and weight could possibly be easier than a single pass cut on a table saw.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

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