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Thread: straight-line rip of long boards on cabinet saw - looking for ideas

  1. #1
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    straight-line rip of long boards on cabinet saw - looking for ideas

    I typically purchase lumber already straight lined on one edge. My latest project involves rough 5/4 and most of the 10' boards have a slight bow on both edges. In the past when I've done this I've used a narrow strip of 8' x 3/4" plywood as a sled with hold downs to hold the bowed stock then straighten one edge by sliding the plywood jig against the fence...rudimentary but worked OK. I no longer have that jig am am wondering, before I make up a new one, whether I might get some better ideas on how to do this with a cabinet saw (I don't have a track saw and have no interest in purchasing one).
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  2. #2
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    Do ya have a circular saw? You could make a down a dirty track for it.
    I got cash in my pocket. I got desire in my heart....

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judson Green View Post
    Do ya have a circular saw? You could make a down a dirty track for it.
    I have a circular saw but my longest steel straight edge is only 6' and I have all 10' boards to straight line. I could use an 8' plywood strip as a straight edge but have 8 boards to do and would have to do a separate setup on each board, whereas the ply sled on the table saw is a one time setup, then just swap out the boards to be straight lined.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  4. #4
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    Your original jig is the way to go.Fabricate another one and it will be close at hand should need arise again.

  5. #5
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    I've got an 8' x 12" x 3/4" MDF panel but I don't have any extra hold down clamps so I'm gonna screw 4 or 5 1" L brackets onto the MDF then a narrow screw into the center edge of the board to be straight-lined. I'm moving into a 1,200 sq ft shop next year with room for a slider....this will get me by 'till then.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  6. #6
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    Forty years agi, I straightened one edge of long walnut boards by burying a small part of the table saw blade in a cove board attached to the rip fence. You can safely remove almost an eigth of an inch in a pass. It goes quickly and you can sneak up on a straight line just like you would on a jointer.

    Jerry

    Jerry
    Jerry

    "It is better to fail in originality than succeed in imitation" - Herman Melville

  7. #7
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    A jointer will work.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    A jointer will work.
    Not a 10' board on a 6' jointer table...think about it.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  9. #9
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    I've always though this idea looked interesting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3kv7d8BXh4

  10. #10
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    One way but there are many.

    http://youtu.be/dCKFhjB5Wk8

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Not a 10' board on a 6' jointer table...think about it.
    Huh??? The jointer will work if properly set up! I've done 16' boards on a 6' jointer!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Orbine View Post
    Huh??? The jointer will work if properly set up! I've done 16' boards on a 6' jointer!
    16' bowed boards? How?
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Orbine View Post
    Huh??? The jointer will work if properly set up! I've done 16' boards on a 6' jointer!

    Thats just crazy talk. Its tough to put a straight edge on 16' material with a 108" long jointer even after coming off a straight line saw, and I've done it enough to know. Straightish...maybe. But when you need to make glue line edges on long boards, its rough, and you can loose a lot of width. If there's a magic formula its news to me and many colleagues with formidable experience. You might get 10' straight, but if its a big pile that gets old fast.

  14. #14
    Don't see anything about facing the boards. I'd be more concerned about jointer width than table length but if you have enough width to face ,I think you
    can joint well enough for gluing .But without facing the material it will be rocking and climbing while you are jointing. If you are doing this for glue prep, accept joints touching at ends and slightly open in middle as well as "perfect joints". I don't like saw straight lining for glue prep ,but where wide real wood boards are needed for large commercial jobs ,it is
    sometimes the only practical way.

  15. #15
    Imagine if you will..... you have a jointer plane (yes, the hand held kind). You start shooting off high spots of the board while it clamped to a bench side or something. You keep truing up until you a least have a nice eyeball straight. It's not going to be 100% true, but good enough the eyeball has trouble seeing anything. Now, with a 16' board on a jointer machine.... I need help supporting the ends. Usually one other person or two stands. But a human help is easier. 10 foot boards.... much easier and I can usually do on my own. So on the jointer... start by shooting off the high spots .... the bow ...or the cup. Move along till you get it reasonably straight... then take a full length pass.

    Usually, after getting the first board straight, I use that board to true up all the others with the table saw.

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