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Thread: straight-line rip of long boards on cabinet saw - looking for ideas

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kent A Bathurst View Post
    You have an issue that needs to be addressed, Scott. Snipe does not need to be "inevitable". What planer are you driving?

    But - I always go an inch or so long..............but not a foot.
    Kent, I normally allow several extra inches for snipe. In my current situation, though, I need 9' finished boards and my choice from my supplier was 8' or 10' or 14' lengths. I picked up 10 footers and I guess I could have shortened to 9.5" prior to planing but I just figured it was an extra unnecessary step and the 10' lengths pretty much takes snipe off the table (so to speak )
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  2. #47
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    Straight lined and edge jointed. Going to glue up two 16" halves first, joint/plane, then glue up the 2 halves for the final 30" slab. The last one of these large slabs I built I used a few biscuits for alignment, extended open-time glue and curved cauls to keep the joint flat as possible since I'm going to have to smooth with a ROS by hand. I ordered potassium dichromate to oxidize the wood before finishing with a clear poly. Never tried the PD, going to experiment on scrap pieces.
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    Last edited by scott vroom; 09-16-2014 at 6:43 PM. Reason: added pic
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Kent, I normally allow several extra inches for snipe. In my current situation, though, I need 9' finished boards and my choice from my supplier was 8' or 10' or 14' lengths. I picked up 10 footers and I guess I could have shortened to 9.5" prior to planing but I just figured it was an extra unnecessary step and the 10' lengths pretty much takes snipe off the table (so to speak )
    Oh - well, then - in that case I would maybe do the same. OTOH - depending on the wood, grain quality, etc., I might end up with the 14' to get at the "nicer" bits, and rough cut to finished length + 1" or so.

    Carry on.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    A lot of times you need to take some off of both ends, so do one end, and turn the board around.
    I agree with all except turning the board around. I agree with working on the concave edge of the board, working on each end individually until it starts to get close. ..But if you turn the board around most likely the surfaced edges will not be parallel. It's important to always keep the same (at least two) points on the side of the board touching the fence the entirety of every pass.
    Last edited by Yonak Hawkins; 09-16-2014 at 11:50 PM.

  5. #50
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    First 2 boards glued up. No biscuits necessary, alternated clamps over/under and added cauls even though the boards were flat.
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    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Newman View Post
    Your original jig is the way to go.Fabricate another one and it will be close at hand should need arise again.
    I agree totally...this is the best and safest way to accomplish the task with a North American design table saw.

    Please also give consideration if you really need those boards to stay 10' long...if they do, without a big sliding table saw or sourcing a piece of 10' sheet stock, they are going to be difficult to do. I do a lot of straight-lining on my 8'6" slider...and most boards are already sectioned down where they are close to component size. I do layouts on boards with chalk and then cut them. The advantage is that I can choose my initial cut line for best grain and pattern rather than relying on the original board edge.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I agree totally...this is the best and safest way to accomplish the task with a North American design table saw.

    Please also give consideration if you really need those boards to stay 10' long...if they do, without a big sliding table saw or sourcing a piece of 10' sheet stock, they are going to be difficult to do. I do a lot of straight-lining on my 8'6" slider...and most boards are already sectioned down where they are close to component size. I do layouts on boards with chalk and then cut them. The advantage is that I can choose my initial cut line for best grain and pattern rather than relying on the original board edge.
    Jim, it's a long thread and you probably missed the pic of the sled I made to rip my stock. I used an 8' x ~12" x 3/4" MDF panel onto which I attached the boards...basically made my own slider...not difficult at all really. It worked perfectly and glue ups are already completed. Couldn't break down the stock as I'm making a long desktop slab.
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    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  8. #53
    To borrow a phrase normally associated with an entirely unrelated activity - Looks like a "Happy Ending". Good thinking on the long rip cut.

  9. #54
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    Planed the 2 halves, here's the final glue up. 30" x 10' x 1". Potassium dichromate should be delivered tomorrow, will experiment on scraps to dial in the right aged look. Then poly top coats and attach to cab bases.
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    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Planed the 2 halves, here's the final glue up. 30" x 10' x 1". Potassium dichromate should be delivered tomorrow, will experiment on scraps to dial in the right aged look. Then poly top coats and attach to cab bases.

    I did a test of the potassium dichromate on about 6" of the desktop slab. I mixed 1/2 tsp in 16 oz water.....it really darkened the wood. pics show the effect after a couple of brushed on coats of clear poly.
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    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  11. #56
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    Gotta get me summa that stuff. Any idea what it does on, say, cherry or curly maple? Or QSWO?

    Also -

    I do not need to wait for you to get your new shop equipped to give you this message.

    Bend? Bend Oregon? You are retiring to BEND OREGON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    Man - my business travels used to take me there every couple months. In............jeeeezzzz..............lemme think. Musta been mid-90's.


    So - enjoy yourself.



    You Suck - Bill Murray.jpg
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kent A Bathurst View Post
    Gotta get me summa that stuff. Any idea what it does on, say, cherry or curly maple? Or QSWO?

    Also -

    I do not need to wait for you to get your new shop equipped to give you this message.

    Bend? Bend Oregon? You are retiring to BEND OREGON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    Man - my business travels used to take me there every couple months. In............jeeeezzzz..............lemme think. Musta been mid-90's.


    So - enjoy yourself.



    You Suck - Bill Murray.jpg
    Potassium dichromate works best on high tannin woods....cherry, walnut, mahogany, etc. It is an oxidant and turns the wood instantly dark and gives it that aged look. I sampled it on some soft maple and it gave it the appearance of barn wood...kinda gray. I'll probably test it later today on some QSWO scraps in the shop. Best source of info is the supplier, Sam at shellac.net.....he's an 'ol timer with extensive refinishing experience. He also sells a product that adds tannins to low tannin wood to which is then applied the dichromate.

    Yup....moving to Bend next year. There is a semiconductor fab in Bend....in the 90's it was owned by Advance Power Technologies where they ran a low frequency RF bipolar xstr line. Any chance you called on them? Not sure who owns it now....maybe Microsemi?
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Jim, it's a long thread and you probably missed the pic of the sled I made to rip my stock. I used an 8' x ~12" x 3/4" MDF panel onto which I attached the boards...basically made my own slider...not difficult at all really. It worked perfectly and glue ups are already completed. Couldn't break down the stock as I'm making a long desktop slab.
    That was exactly the method I used when I had my cabinet saw.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    I did a test of the potassium dichromate on about 6" of the desktop slab. I mixed 1/2 tsp in 16 oz water.....it really darkened the wood. pics show the effect after a couple of brushed on coats of clear poly.
    Scott - nice job on getting the top cut, jointed and glued up. The wood looks great. The grain match is very nice. What kind of wood is this?
    I can't say though, that I like the contrast of the grain in the finished area. I would be hesitant to use that process on this nice wood. I think the grain contrast in the finished area is too high and may be overwhelming. If that is due to the potassium stuff I'd look for an alternative, maybe just BLO with a compatible top coat. Just my opinion -

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    Scott - nice job on getting the top cut, jointed and glued up. The wood looks great. The grain match is very nice. What kind of wood is this?
    I can't say though, that I like the contrast of the grain in the finished area. I would be hesitant to use that process on this nice wood. I think the grain contrast in the finished area is too high and may be overwhelming. If that is due to the potassium stuff I'd look for an alternative, maybe just BLO with a compatible top coat. Just my opinion -

    Hi Pat,

    The wood is Sapele....it's a member of the mahogany family. The grain is bi-directional which gives it that stripped look. As you walk around the board, the dark stripes turn light and light turn dark. The pics you referred to show a very dramatic grain contrast due in part to the lighting....and yes it is pretty intense. Here's another pic of samples from the same boards. The 2 boards at the top are both treated with the dichromate, while the bottom board was sealed with GF Arm-R-Seal. You can clearly see the aging effect of the dichromate on those 2 top boards.
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    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

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