Powder coating-does it ever leave a smooth surface,or just the bumpy surface I've seen on stuff like tool boxes?
Powder coating-does it ever leave a smooth surface,or just the bumpy surface I've seen on stuff like tool boxes?
Appliances - like washing machines and dryers, etc. - are often powder coated I believe, and they have reasonably smooth finishes. ?
~ Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of the men of old; seek what they sought.
MRO high solids paint is made by Seymour Paint Co. in Sycamore IL. They have a web site and will ship by UPS.
I have used MRO and real japan finish made from asphaltum powder and marine spar varnish. I hate to refinish planes because it removes or masks some of the authenticity of the tool. Nevertheless, there are times when it is called for. Honestly, the MRO is is much more durable then the japanning. I'm afraid that whatever process Stanley used is lost to the ages. Millers Falls japanning was even better.
I bead-blast the plane first, which gives the casting a brand new appearance. No primer is used with japanning and is optional with MRO. Then you just mask off any areas to be left unpainted with blue tape. After the paint is dry I remove the tape and go over the sole and cheeks with a deburring wheel on a 1750 rpm motor.
Another good opinion - the japanning doesn't measure up to the vintage? (I've never used japanning, and thus don't know of the durability of the new - the old was definitely exceptional).
I agree with your comment about refinishing, thus the shellac if I can get away with it. It's reversible, it usually makes the tool look about halfway between restored and not restored (as in, an 80% japanning tool will look as good as one that's 90%), and it's easy and cheap. Seals off the casting from further rust, too.
That drill looks pretty good, though.
George, without having tried it, powder coating seems like a good option. It has by far the best durabilty of any applied finish. Planes made today use it. I think it would look like a sprayed enamel. Only japanning looks like japanning, however, due to its inherent semi-transparency that reveals the edges of lettering and corners on the casting. One thing I've always wanted to try was mixing clear and black enamel together and thinning it; with the anticipation that it would flow off of the high points. I'll probably never do that because it begs the question of why go to that much trouble?
Last edited by Tony Joyce; 09-15-2014 at 1:19 PM. Reason: Addition
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If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.
Sean,
I really like that green paint you used; I've got a No. 6 that I've been dragging my heels about cleaning up and I think that that's just the color I'll go with.
The green looks close to "Clifton" green - very nice looking planes with the polished edges of the sole.
If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.
for those that live in the Midwest, I'd recommend Valspar's tractor & implement paint. I've used it before and its tough as nails, but takes a while to dry. It's a two part enamel that can be thinned and sprayed. I get it every now and then at Farm & Fleet. It comes in rattle cans a well, though I'm not sure how that compares to the mix it yourself stuff.
-Dan
The chronicle finish you are asking about is a specific type of powder coating. I have used the black crinkle on some sculpture pieces. The other finishes come out pretty smooth depending on prep and application. The translucent colors are not as solvent resistant as the solid colors. The finish is very durable. I use the all in one sears powder coating gun and the largest size toaster oven I could find (special order through Wal-Mart). You could fit up to a No 5 plane in the toaster oven. I haven't coated plane parts in it, but based on my experience with other parts, the powder coating would work well. I use a thermometer in the oven to monitor thetemperature.
No, the sky is not falling - just chunks of it are.
Powder coat can be smooth as glass. Takes a lot of prep of the metal, the right powder and a skilled operator but it is definitely doable.
I've used the Duplicolor Gloss Black Engine Enamel on the 4 or 5 I have restored. It works well, looks almost identical to the original japanning and is hard as a rock. In the past few days I have been refinishing and painting a rusty fire pit I had out back....Used this paint called Por 15. It is the single hardest coating i have ever put on anything. Accidentally dripped 1 drop on the threads of a bolt i had laying around, after it dried i couldn't thread it into a nut. Put it on a wire wheel and couldn't get the stuff to come off, so i'm pretty sold on it. BTW - the fire pit looks outstanding
"When I got home, I drank six more glasses of whiskey and then I finished crafting this small harp, using a bandsaw, a spokeshave, and an oscillating spindle sander." - Ron Swanson