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Thread: Bandsaw precision?

  1. #1

    Bandsaw precision?

    Hi everyone. Warning, long post ahead:-) I've had a piece of bandsaw from Menards now for a couple years that fails me each time I try to get anything done with it. Even trying to cut a straight line in 3/4 inch basswood leaves less than stellar results. What I want to accomplish is re sawing hardwood stock into thin sheets so that I can build dollhouse furniture. I've historically used store bought basswood in different widths and thickness but I'd like to be able to resaw my own material from bowl blanks. Would a bandsaw in the $700-$1000 range allow me to make accurate 1/8 or 1/16 thick slices?


    I recently stumbled upon a bandsaw video on youtube where a Carter representative demonstrated how to set up a bandsaw for resaw. I learned a few things from watching that video but what shocked me the most was that he claimed that a properly tuned bandsaw would resaw thick hardwood into thin slabs without making any sort of adjustments for bandsaw drift. The only tuning he performed was the alignment of the blade gullets to the center of the wheel instead of centering the whole blade itself. In addition he set the bearings so they weren't in contact with the blade and claimed that contact with the back bearing was the biggest cause of drift. I find this very contradictory to everything I've ever watched or read. If this is true then why does Carter itself sell an aftermarket fence and why do most decent bandsaws have adjustable ones? This has really confused me. I'd love to take his word for it and order me up a nice bandsaw but I have a feeling that this is highly debated.


    Anyway, aside from the bandsaw drift point, I'd really like to know how accurate a good bandsaw will resaw hardwood. I've tried tuning my crappy bandsaw per the Carter video but I'm definitely not getting my saw to cut straight without adjusting for drift. Like I said my tension system is broken but I managed to rig it up to the point of adjusting it with a socket wrench but I have no way of telling how much tension I've applied. Going back to the Carter video, the gentleman exclaims that using the built in gauge is not as accurate as adjusting tension using the method of pushing on the blade to see if it flexes no more than an eighth of an inch.

    If you're still with me I would appreciate some feedback. I just want to level set my expectations with reality as it relates to bandsaw performance before I drop some coin on an upgrade. I have more questions but this post is long enough so I'll reserve them for later down the thread.
    Last edited by Mike Null; 09-17-2014 at 9:03 AM.

  2. #2
    Read Fine Woodworking articles by John White about tuning the Delta style 14" bandsaw. They will guide you in how to achieve the ability to cut 1/16 to 1/8" veneer up to 12" wide. At some point in thicker cuts you may have to leave extra material for jointing-planing.

    Michael Fortune also has good articles on resawing, and goes into how to set a blade for zero drift. Lots of folks swear by this method, wich sounds a little like what you mention from the Carter rep. I haven't tried this. I do have my doubts about the Carter reps idea of no thrust bearing though.

    For a Delta style 14" saw a good blade to start resawing with is the Highland Hardware 1/2" Wood Slicer style blade. It will cut about as smoothly as anyones steel blade, and if you dull it while refining your setup and technique it won't break the bank. Lennox makes nice carbide blades for when you have the setup and experience to take care of one.

  3. #3
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    I have a Rikon 14" bandsaw. I regularly resaw hardwoods to 1/8" to 1/16" or below. I am sure some other saws can do the same for under 1,000$. I tuned my bandsaw well and currently use a Woodslicer blade. I have used other blades as well. I use the stock guides (including the thrust bearing).
    Shawn

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  4. #4
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    I think it's reasonable to expect consistent 1/8" or 1/16" cuts from a well-tuned bandsaw in that price range. Please note, however, that if you do a lot of curve-cutting, the blade you use will not do very well at resawing afterward. Keep a sharp blade for resawing, and do your curved work with a different blade. If you can't adjust-out drift, your blade is the likely culprit, IMHO.

  5. #5
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    I resaw on a 14" Craftsman (rikon look-alike) with a 3 tooth 1/2" wide blade to make ukulele sides 1/8" thin. I can resaw quartersawn boards very precisely. Flat sawn boards tend to try to follow the grain and sometimes wander off.

  6. #6
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    Where are you getting your blades? Menards? If so, it might be worth trying a blade from a different vendor before giving up on your present saw, a new blade or two is cheaper than a new saw. There are a number of bandsaw blade suppliers that get good reviews. A few in no order of preference: Woodcraftbands.com (not related to Woodcraft stores AFAIK), Iturra (no web site), supercutbandsaw.com, spectrumsupply.com, Timber Wolf and there are many more as good or better. All you should need is the blade length and maybe maximum blade width before ordering. Maybe consider one size down from the maximum listed width as your maximum. For instance, Rikon says their 10-325 will run a 3/4" blade. I don't go over 1/2" though I might try a 5/8" one day. Narrower blades are easier to tension adequately.

  7. #7
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    In my experience, a well made freshly sharpened blade is half the solution.

    There are multiple posts where people have complained of poor resawing,
    and after replacing the blade - good results returned.

    I like the Starret 1/2 inch bimetal blade with 3 teeth per inch.
    It's not expensive, and when dull - I don't hesitate to replace it because of the cost.

    Buy two, so you can always have a sharp one mounted.

  8. #8
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    A few things going on here.......

    One is the pricepoint,<1K$.-Depending on your area,you can get a very nice,used,solid 20"'ish BS.This being dependent on the area and how well you can source,and if you're inclined to do some tinkering?

    Blades and everything that goes with their use is a deep subject,and irrespective(sort of)of the machine....it is a very important part of the equation.You will have to try a cpl different setups and focus in on exactly your parameters before you'll be able to put some numbers on the accuracy.

    It's been a while since we did any real high precision resaw work here,but would venture to say with our setup we could hit within a .010" range......so that's what,+- .005.We do have a 10" high cast iron fence system,that's adj in every aspect to a .001......Won't go into the "drift" part of it,we setup dead straight.But the fence's ability to adj. is a pretty important part.

    I know folks have limits on their equipment,heck we do too.But two machines,one setup strictly for resaw and another for contour work is the right approach in a lot of shops.

  9. #9
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    In addition to the above comments I feel tension is very, perhaps most, critical adjustment to a blades performance. I perhaps tend to tension a blade on the tight side & feel that is the best contributor to cutting a straight line without drift. As stated above, keeping a resaw blade from contour cutting reduces twist to a blade, helping it to cut straight.
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  10. #10
    Joseph,
    One lesson I learned recently after fighting the same problem with a Grizzly 14" saw (a 550X) and making the adjustments recommended by Alex Sondgrass at Carter was to make SURE the blade is SQUARE to the table. First, take the guides back so there is no contact with blade. Tension the blade some, and let then set the blade so it tracks properly on the top wheel, just as Alex recommends. This is assuming you are using a sharp blade with no bent or deformed teeth. Then square the table to the blade by squaring the miter slot with the blade using an accurate ruler. I used a good metal 12" ruler placed next to the blade (between the teeth) and parallel to the miter slot. Make sure the ruler touches the blade along it's entire width. Then measure the distance to the miter slot from the 12" ruler using a good 6" metal ruler. I was measuring to 1/64" over the length of the 12" ruler. Once you've got the blade tracking and the table square to the blade, THEN set the guides and tension the blade. I found I'd managed to take the table out of square some time when I moved my saw. It wasn't far out, but enough. Until I got the thing squared back up NOTHING would make the saw resaw. Now, I can resaw <1/8" slices over a board that is 5' long and 10" wide (cherry, ash or walnut). I don't need to worry about drift, since there isn't any. My fence is square to the miter slot. I use a 1/2" blade with 3tpi and a skip tooth pattern. It is an easy fix, but one that's really easy to overlook. My saw works beautifully and the problems I was having were all my own fault. If you've got questions and want some more information, let me know.
    Hope this helps,
    Tom

  11. #11
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    I have a Grizzly G0555X with a Woodslicer blade (no riser block) and cut veneers easily. There are various iterations of the G055?? bs from Grizzly and they make it easy to compare on their website. Price on all versions would be in your budget. Many have recommended various blade sources and I, too, would recommend a good, quality blade. I like the Woodslicer from Highland; many like Timberwolf (I had bad luck with their blade but they stood behind it and many really swear by them). There a lots of good sources in all price ranges.

    Before you buy a blade or a saw I would recommend that you buy and read http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-G...words=duginski Also search here for posts by Van Huskey. I haven't seen posts from Van in a while bu he was the resident expert on bandsaws at the Creek.
    Last edited by Jim Rimmer; 09-17-2014 at 12:52 PM. Reason: Spelling

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