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Thread: Beech Jointer Build

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    Charles, the eyes are the parts that are semi oval shaped at the top of the mortise. I trouble about them because they are not done very well on a lot of later planes, and if they aren't done right, they take away a lot as far as looks go, just like a funny handle would.
    Thanks, David. I see it now.

  2. #32
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    I am in need of some hardware for this plane. Not something I was expecting to look for, but if you look closely at the front of the JT brown plane's handle (you don't really need to look) there is a round headed lag screw in the handle front.

    I have had handles out of their mortises a fair amount lately, but I can't recall what a consistent mortise depth is, I think it's probably closer to an inch. I thought it might be 3/4", so I've cut my handle at 3/4", but upon staring at it, the tenon seems a bit short for a mortise in the body (as in, it would probably be better and strong if it was longer. I'm going to go with it for now, I can make another one if it's actually a problem.

    what I *don't* have is a proper style lag screw 2" long in the front of the handle, and google image, etc, is not showing me much that looks remotely similar. Figure the lag screw in the jt brown is standard head with a head about 1/8" thick, maybe 1/2 or 5/8" wide, and i'm not sure what the diameter of the screw is on the outside of the threads, probably 3/16" or 1/4" - it's not small.

    Oh yeah, and while making the handle last night, I dropped the plane as it sits in those pictures on the floor - I can't even remember how, but so much for a spotless plane to start!!

    Fortunately, it landed on its front corner and I just have a dent under the front right corner - unsightly, but nearly so much as it would've been if it fell and broke a chunk off at the chamfer. I doubt it's the last time it will be dropped run banged into something.

    Anyway, anyone have any clue where to source a screw like the one I'm describing?

  3. #33
    Sorry, Dave, but for the life of me I can't picture the screw you need in my limited brain. I also can't see it in the pics you provided earlier. How about a pic of the screw? I know some places to get hardware locally, or we could fashion one and age it if needed.

    Doug Trembath

  4. #34
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    David,are you certain that screw is original? Do you make your mortises slant a bit forward,both on the front and real surfaces? You probably know this,but the slanted mortise makes it impossible to push the handle out when pushing forwards. I have not had much trouble with handles coming out,but have seen a few planes with a non original nail or screw driven into the front part of the handle.

    Do post a picture anyway. Good and close up.

  5. #35
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    Not sure if it's original, George, but it's been in there for a very long time.

    I have cut the handle with a forward slant, though it goes I think opposite of what you're thinking. In the last plane I took the handle out of (because it was loose and needed to be reglued), the slant was forward with the top of the tenon at the surface of the plane further forward than the back. I have to assume that was for fitting ease, but I don't know. The back was straight up and down.

    I'll get a picture of the lag screw tonight.

  6. #36
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    Not sure what you are saying,David. If you make the handle fit both ends in a slanted mortise,it will just not budge with a forward push,where,of course,is where the effort is placed.

  7. #37
    If I remember George correctly, the front and the backside of the tenon are angled forward. The mortise is angled like wise of course. Now when you push the plane forwards, the handle wants to tilt forward too, but it can't, because of that angled backside of the tenon. The front is also canted, otherwise you couldn't insert the handle into the mortise.

    But a plane isn't only pushed forward, it is also to be lifted on the handle quite often, and especially with a big heavy jointer, that is quite strenous on the glue too. So you very often see a screw through the nose of the handle in an old plane.

    Don't you have round headed wood screws overthere? It needs to be a large one of course.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Trembath View Post
    Sorry, Dave, but for the life of me I can't picture the screw you need in my limited brain. I also can't see it in the pics you provided earlier. How about a pic of the screw? I know some places to get hardware locally, or we could fashion one and age it if needed.

    Doug Trembath
    it's just like a lag screw like these, except older, and I think threaded all the way up to the head, and the head is round instead of hex with a standard screwdriver slot across it. But the thickness of the head is similar.

    I'll have go to check my plane box, as I've cut down a few old planes and maybe there's a chance I have one and don't remember it. Either way, I'll try to remember to take a picture.

  9. #39
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    I was wrong about the screw. It's an old tapered head wood screw with a standard slot in the jt brown. I know it's not the first plane I had where that screw was in the front of the handle, though. I'm sure I have something appropriate.

  10. #40
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    may I suggest you use a stainless or a screw with a alen-key head instead of a straight slot. I'm sure you know single slotted screw can be a pain to get out 10years down the road. HNT used a alen head screw, I don't think it looks distasteful like a philips would.

  11. #41
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    I'll insert the screw with beeswax and oil. You're right that an Allen key screw would be easier to get out, but I just can't live with the look.

  12. #42
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    I wonder did the old craftsman have alen- heads ( no pun intended..)

  13. #43
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    Screw the screw.... You should really try that idea George has

  14. #44
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    I am already making the handle that way. The screw is just insurance on the front of the handle lifting at all. The slants on the handle don't necessarily keep it from coming loose, they just keep the plane from dropping off of the handle while you're using it. I've got several old planes that need to come apart and be reglued, but they are no threat of coming apart because the mortise was cut that way.

  15. #45
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    David do you intend to glue it also? I making a jack plane right now, I'm considering having a snug fit mortice with a stanley style screw (I'd use a alen head wood screw and go mabybe 1 inch into to wood)

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