Having followed George's thread on sharpening with ceramic stones and no water and having been a fan of Spyderco Ceramic stones for sharpening knives, I recently purchased a few Spyderco bench ceramic stones and a few Eze-Lap diamond plates. My original idea was to have the sharpening tools and skills to "touch up" sharpen at my bench saving a number of trips to the sink & water stones. In the last year I have become interested in green woodworking, resulting in the acquisition of a collection of hand tools with curved blades that I may use further from a water source.These tools were another sharpening challenge I suspected might benefit from the same methods.
There has been a trend back towards older "oil" stones on these pages. I am old enough to have spent many hours trying to sharpen outdoor knives, axes & tools with these older stones. My recollections are a little less nostalgic and a little more related to the frustration of many hours spent without much to show for it. Still I do have all those hours invested in developing the hand/eye coordination necessary to sharpen by hand without a guide. It makes sense to me to do larger amounts of metal removal with diamond stones and polish with ceramics. The Diamond stones are obviously much faster than the old oil stones and I have experienced better results polishing with ceramic stones.
It did not take long for me to convinced myself that I get more work done in less time by touching up the blades I am using at my bench, before they get dull, instead of waiting until the blades become unusable then making the trip to the sink and water stones. The problem I have with going to the sink is a sizable amount of my woodworking time turns into sharpening sessions. I find it too tempting to sharpen too much, while I am there. The trip to the sink winds up breaking the continuity in a project. More touch ups and less long sharpening sessions seems to help me with projects. I spend less total time sharpening and find myself with well sharpened tools more often.
I just recently moved my diamond stones into my hand tool woodworking room too. I am making plans to make a sharpening cabinet and surface, as close as possible to my benches. The issue I have with sharpening at the bench is the bench surface tends to get poached by sharpening tools. I am thinking a simple rubber mat on top of a cabinet or desk containing all my dry sharpening gear. So I am interested in hearing about sharpening station designs.
I know there are quite a few hand sharpening methods and I am interested in hearing which ones other members use and like. I may be a little odd in that I tend to use different methods with different issues at different stages of sharpening. Early into sizable bevel restores I tend to move my blades in an elongated circular or figure eight pattern. As I feel the bevel improving I tend to go to more side sharpening and straight back & forth motion covering the entire stone, as much as possible.
I have been surprised to learn that it is easy to make small to large radiuses on either side of my blades by altering pressure on either side and angling the corners more into the stone. The #4 Stanley SW blade I am just finishing up has just a slight curve or rounding at both corners as compared to my #5 & #6. The no name (similar to a Stanley #51) spokeshave blade I just restored has even smaller radius’ at it’s corners. My magnifying LED floor lamp, next to my bench, comes in handy in conjunction with an engineer's square to reassure myself that bevel shapes are appropriate to the work. Altering the bevels and corner radiuses at the bench by hand, while I am engaged in the work, tends to produce more appropriate bevels and radiuses for the work at hand. Sharpening closer to the work at hand has a tendency to improve both the quality and quantity of my sharpening time.