Anyone here make drawer boxes with a Domino or Domino XL?

[Todd Burch]

If so, can you tell about the experience? How did they turn out? Would you do it again?

Thanks, Todd (Dominoless, at the present)

[Chris Padilla]

Yep...I like to use the 4 mm dominoes for stuff like this. In fact, most of my cabinet plywood builds employ dominos and most of them the 4 mm. I was thrilled when they came out with something smaller than the 5 mm. I just like this smaller size. I use the original Domino...not sure the XL can handle the smaller dominoes.

[James Zhu]

XL with Seneca woodworking's RTS-500 adapter can handle the smaller dominoes. For plywood, domi-shims for XL can create the correct offset for centering the mortise on 1/2" and 3/4" ply.

http://www.senecawoodworking.com/

[jack duren]

i would not purchase a Domino for drawers alone, there are too many options available...Jack

[Phil Thien]

i would not purchase a Domino for drawers alone, there are too many options available...Jack

But I'm sure once he had a Domino, he'd find all sorts of things for which he could use it.

[David Hawxhurst]

i make most of my shop box drawers with dominoes. i use 6mm ones on 3/4" plywood boxes. i think the xl and the seneca adapter and shims could possible replace the 500.

[jack duren]

I'm sure he could find more useful tools to purchased...

[Todd Burch]

Yep...I like to use the 4 mm dominoes for stuff like this. In fact, most of my cabinet plywood builds employ dominos and most of them the 4 mm. I was thrilled when they came out with something smaller than the 5 mm. I just like this smaller size. I use the original Domino...not sure the XL can handle the smaller dominoes.

Do you do through mortises or blind? When you use them for ply boxes, does using the domino replace the need to cut dados for registration during assembly? Do you still use nails or screws on the ply boxes?

I'm sure he could find more useful tools to purchased...

Jack, what would you purchase?

I usually make drawers with box joints on the tablesaw. That tablesaw and jig are in storage. To make a proper jig for my current tablesaw, I would have to also modify my out feed table (I just bought) and spend the time making and tuning a jig. Not too interested in doing that right now. I was going to purchase prefinished drawer side material, and just glue and nail the drawer boxes together, but I'm not too much a fan of gluing on top of a finish and don't care for how the rounded top of the 1/2" prefinished baltic birch would meet at the corners. Plus, the boxes would have sharp bottom corners after ripping to the proper widths, and sanding them smooth would remove the finish.

I have 30 drawers to make. If you have some suggestions a tool more useful for me, please share!

When I started researching the Domino, my interest was in door building. (As in entrance and interior doors). I like real wood doors. For the house I will be building, I'll have 23 doors (interior and external combined - just the house, not also the garage and shop) to make if I decide to make my own. Financially, it's very attractive to make my own doors. I priced out vertical grain douglas fir for an 8' door, 3' wide, paneled, and the material would be $264. (@ $5.50/bd ft.) 23 times, that's over $6K, but still a heck of a lot less expensive than buying good doors. A nice front door could easily cost 1/3 or 1/2 that much.

[fRED mCnEILL]

Here is a thread on the FOG website on how to do drawers easily with dominos.

http://www.festoolownersgroup.com/me...ers-revisited/

[Max Neu]

I make them sort of like the method on the link above,but my method is probably a little simpler.I buy my 6mm domino stock in walnut in long lengths,I usually buy 300 LF at a time,then I set up a crosscut sled with a stop block and cut them all to length on the bandsaw.We usually fill up a 5 gallon bucket full in one sitting.I use the bandsaw because it's safe,and I can have my son cut them without worry,so I can be doing something else more important. We build the boxes with 1/2" plywood sides,and 3/4" front and backs.Once all the parts are cut out(sides,front/backs,bottoms),we use a 23 guage micro pinner to tack them together.Then just plunge through the sides at full depth (28mm),and glue,then drive in the tenons.We leave the tenons stick up proud from the surface,and use a laminate trimmer with a straght bit to flush them up after the glue dries.We also use an 18g pinner to naill the tenons,from the front and back of the box,where they won't show.I use walnut for my domino material because it gives it a nice look once it is clear coated with the birch.These are very strong joints,I tried to tear one apart just to see how strong it was,I had to destroy the plywood itself before the joint ever came apart.I find this way to be the easiest way to build domino drawers,because there is no worries about alignment,and only 1/2 as much machinig time since the mortises are all being done simultaneously.

[Mike Cozad]

Can you post some pics of your work? Sounds like a neat idea....

I make them sort of like the method on the link above,but my method is probably a little simpler.I buy my 6mm domino stock in walnut in long lengths,I usually buy 300 LF at a time,then I set up a crosscut sled with a stop block and cut them all to length on the bandsaw.We usually fill up a 5 gallon bucket full in one sitting.I use the bandsaw because it's safe,and I can have my son cut them without worry,so I can be doing something else more important. We build the boxes with 1/2" plywood sides,and 3/4" front and backs.Once all the parts are cut out(sides,front/backs,bottoms),we use a 23 guage micro pinner to tack them together.Then just plunge through the sides at full depth (28mm),and glue,then drive in the tenons.We leave the tenons stick up proud from the surface,and use a laminate trimmer with a straght bit to flush them up after the glue dries.We also use an 18g pinner to naill the tenons,from the front and back of the box,where they won't show.I use walnut for my domino material because it gives it a nice look once it is clear coated with the birch.These are very strong joints,I tried to tear one apart just to see how strong it was,I had to destroy the plywood itself before the joint ever came apart.I find this way to be the easiest way to build domino drawers,because there is no worries about alignment,and only 1/2 as much machinig time since the mortises are all being done simultaneously.

[Mike Henderson]

Yep, like Chris I use the 4mm dominoes for drawers and shop boxes. If I'm using thin plywood, I let the dominoes show but otherwise, you can hide them. Here's a box I made using the 4mm dominoes.

When the Domino first came out, I was not a believer. But a friend bought one and I had a chance to use it. Decided to buy one and never regretted it. I use it for many things now - more places than where you would use a mortise and tenon - as in putting that box together. It's especially good when working with plywood because you can't really do dovetails in plywood and most of the time you wouldn't want to spend the time doing dovetails in the things you make out of plywood.

I've also used it when making frame and panel, or frame and glass, doors for furniture - a place where you would use mortise and tenon. It's just that the Domino is easier and faster.

Mike

[Max Neu]

dominos4.jpgHere is the router setup I use to flush trim the domino's,it is a dedicated router for flush trimming things like this.It also works very well for flush trimming inlay's and edgebanding on curved pieces,where typical trimmers won't work.


dominos2.jpgThis is a pie cut drawer for a kitchen I am currently working on.



dominos3.jpg



Supply is starting to run low,300 lf feet filled this bucket full,plus another 1 gallon can.

[jack duren]

Do you do through mortises or blind? When you use them for ply boxes, does using the domino replace the need to cut dados for registration during assembly? Do you still use nails or screws on the ply boxes?



Jack, what would you purchase?

I usually make drawers with box joints on the tablesaw. That tablesaw and jig are in storage. To make a proper jig for my current tablesaw, I would have to also modify my out feed table (I just bought) and spend the time making and tuning a jig. Not too interested in doing that right now. I was going to purchase prefinished drawer side material, and just glue and nail the drawer boxes together, but I'm not too much a fan of gluing on top of a finish and don't care for how the rounded top of the 1/2" prefinished baltic birch would meet at the corners. Plus, the boxes would have sharp bottom corners after ripping to the proper widths, and sanding them smooth would remove the finish.

I have 30 drawers to make. If you have some suggestions a tool more useful for me, please share!

When I started researching the Domino, my interest was in door building. (As in entrance and interior doors). I like real wood doors. For the house I will be building, I'll have 23 doors (interior and external combined - just the house, not also the garage and shop) to make if I decide to make my own. Financially, it's very attractive to make my own doors. I priced out vertical grain douglas fir for an 8' door, 3' wide, paneled, and the material would be $264. (@ $5.50/bd ft.) 23 times, that's over $6K, but still a heck of a lot less expensive than buying good doors. A nice front door could easily cost 1/3 or 1/2 that much.

I have nothing against the Domino first off. Its a good hobby or occasional professional use tool. Because I have a furniture designer and a production manager who insist I use the darn thing, I will plunge 1,104 times with 8x50 domino's this week when a good doweling machine would have been simpler and cheaper. Not only do they cost more, but the Domino is not plunging square to the work. I also have to check the setting on height after about ten plunges. the lock on the right has been repaired but still twists when you lock it. like I said, good hobby or occasional pro use.

Once the domino's are in the only one who knows is you and the people you tell. Personally I would buy a good dovetail jig. There are a lot of visual and strength features with dovetails...Jack

[Sam Murdoch]

Jack Duren's experience with the domino is not mine. I do use it professionally and often to assist in all sorts of assembly and flush work that ends up being very strong and accurately built in a fraction of the time of other methods. Drawer boxes is one application where they excel. Don't care that people can see the joinery, especially when using side mount or bottom mount mechanical slides for bath and kitchen cabs. I only care that the drawer will stay assembled and that no one will ever see joints coming apart. The domino does this well.

There are reasons to use dovetails in non production and non mechanical slide mounted drawers but keeping up with the joneses dovetailing is not a valid reason in my book. I do like sliding dovetails for a change and will use these in cases where client's insist on dovetail drawer boxes but are paying for other than hand cut. That's another thread.