Sanding on the lathe

[Dave Cullen]

I'm sure it depends on numerous factors, but in general what speed do you use when sanding on the lathe? The same speed as when turning the piece, or slower or faster..?

Example, a 7" hard maple bowl that turned nicely at 1100 rpm. Sand it at 1100 too?

TIA

[Dwight Rutherford]

I sand at a much lower speed. 300 RPM seems to work best for me.

[Wally Dickerman]

Depends on whether you are power sanding or hand sanding. I mostly turn HFs so I seldom power sand. I would turn a 7 inch piece at around 1500 and hand sand at 1000. I use an inertia sander at the same speed.

[Justin Stephen]

Power sanding, about 200. Hand sanding, about 300-350. I do not claim that this is best, just what I do. I am possibly overcompensating for some sanding burns that I have had to turn out in the past from sanding at too fast of a speed. Obviously, the type of wood can make a big difference.

[Reed Gray]

Well, this will explain some:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4Pkr89STGY

With years of experimenting, I have found that there are optimum speeds for efficient sanding. If you are going too fast, the abrasives just don't get a chance to dig in properly, so you are spinning your tires, generating heat, but not going any where fast. I keep both drill speeds and lathe speeds slow. If you are hand sanding, pretty much the same thing. If your hand is getting hot, you are using too much pressure and/or too much speed.

robo hippy

[Richard Moran]

It depends on type of wood (soft or hard), method (power or hand) and grit. Another thing to remember is to not overheat the wood or burn it. It's really hard to get burns out, and overheating can bring on cracking as it dries from literally cooking the wood. I always stop and feel the wood while sanding and check for heat build-up.

Power sanding at higher speeds can also ruin your H&L backing pads and prematurely wear out sanding paper.

Let us also not forget that sharp tools equal less sanding. Dull tools can cause tear out and create a LOT of sanding.

[Bill White]

Turn fast. Sand slow. All ya need to know.
Hey! I might put that to music.
Bill

[robert baccus]

I'm going against the grain here but I disagree. I turn medium speeds but spin the heck out of my 3/8" drill in the opposite direction. I find that two things cause trouble here. Using too find a grit for the first 2/3 of the sanding causes heat and polishing. Pressure is the biggest problem sanding. I sand bowl insides and small work with 10,000 rpm air grinders and they stay cool because of the air being moved by the fastmoving paper. But always light pressure. Just my 2 cents.

[Thom Sturgill]

I turn fast and slow down to sand, reversing between grits. When hand sanding I triple fold the paper or use a woven pad between the paper an my hand. I was taught the the fingers under the paper trap heat and form pressure ridges in the finished piece. The woven fabric prevents much of the heat build up and spreads the pressure so the you do not sand finger grooves. Foam backed paper is the same idea, just more expensive - better at the pressure ridges but not so good at heat control - JMHO.

Blow off or wipe between grits to remove dust and grit from the previous pass.

Oh I also wet/oil sand above 320.

[Bruce Lewane]

Turn fast, sand slow has always seemed to be the rule. I have a surplus of quarter inch foam sheets that was packaging from a bunch of solar panels. I mount sandpaper sheets to it with spray adhesive and cut off squares as needed. Saves a nickel or two on foam backed sheets.

[Dave Cullen]

My lathe is belt driven and the slowest speed is 575 rpm, so I'm limited to how slow I can go. I'm looking to go to 180 or 220 on the current project, and I have sticky backed abrasive rolls that I stick to rubber sanding blocks (automotive body work is another hobby of mine) for hand sanding and I have 2 & 3" discs for power sanding. I have had bowls crack under aggressive sanding but they were not-so-dry blanks.

I think I'll keep this one at 575 and tread lightly. Thanks for the inputs, folks.