#4 smoother compared to 4 1/2

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Now that's an interesting tac. I never considered that one before. Hmmmmm
I have the LN #4 in bronze (takes more waxing to cut down on the inherent extra drag of the bonze but it is a good looker as well). I got the #1 in white bronze also.
No rust on them like you said but then I live in the desert so what do I know.

I have to hermetically seal my workshop and wear this http://www.wolfhazmat.de/interspiro/Trellchem_SUPER.jpg to prevent rust where I live. Let's not do another rust thread, but I do love that the bronze plane doesn't have to be oiled, except the iron, and never needs to be sanded of rust spots.

[Jim Matthews]

I would think the hardest part is hanging up your jacket after the commute.

Malcoms commute.jpg

Similar conditions here, cast iron practically evaporates.

[Jim Matthews]

My latest wood body plane is the Old Street shown and it has a blade similar in width to the #3.
More all around versatile (width wise).

Just when I was warming up to you.
May all your teeth fall out, save one -
so you can still have a toothache.

* you suck *

[Derek Cohen]

Just when I was warming up to you.
May all your teeth fall out, save one -
so you can still have a toothache.

A few years ago I bought a LN 4 1/2 at a hand tool event. I love it and use it for my present small scale work of boxes, edge jointing and flattening relatively small panels. It is heavy at 5 1/2 pounds. I'm thinking I should have gotten the #4 cast iron. At 4 pounds it sounds more manageable.
I was going to go to the Oct. 10-11 tool event here to try it, but will not be able to attend. Has anyone personally addressed this question? (I recall the woman demonstrator expressing her preference for the 4 1/2 over the 4. I probably outweighed her by 50 + pounds. So much for equating strength and size).

Hi Bruce

As David mentioned, a heavy plane is very helpful on very hard woods. If you want a really heavy smoother, you try my Marcou S15, which weighs in at 7 lbs 11 oz! There is nothing ... nothing that this plane cannot smooth!



By contrast a Bronze LN 4 1/2 Anniversary is not that heavy. I use both, but not that often. Frankly, they are a bit much, although they work very well. They will come out when needed for large panels.

I like heavy, but in small planes ... the LN #3 (55 degree frog) is my preferred LN. It has heft in a small package (for those who find the handle small, I have a #4 handle on mine) ..



If you prefer lighter planes, which feel nimble and tend to offer more feedback, the LV BU planes are excellent. Have you tried one?



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bruce Mack]

Derek, I've looked at your review of the Marcou and at the maker's website with admiration. His planes are beauties.
I have a LV low angle smoother with both 25 and 38 degree blades. It had been my go-to plane for most tasks. With your suggestion of waxing the bed of the blade support, I can adjust it without releasing the lever cap and have better control of the shaving. I think I have buyer's itch, for in truth my tools are better at woodworking than I. Thank you.

[Jim Koepke]

in truth my tools are better at woodworking than I.

Mine have more experience. There aren't many tools in my shop who haven't been at it longer than me.

jtk

[Prashun Patel]

"...for in truth my tools are better at woodworking than I"

That's great. Noted for future plagarism.

[Mike Allen1010]

If the wood you are planing is easily plane able then wider is better. The harder the wood and the more problematic the narrower is better. The first plane I made (ta dahhhhh a double iron) I made to take the LN 4-1/2 blade and chip breaker. She works well but is a handful when the wood is hard.

What I am saying , in short , is GO FOR THE NARROWER PLANE YOU MIGHT LIKE IT. I do.

+1 to what Winton said

[Frederick Skelly]

I've grabbed almost every plane between a #2 and a #8.

As Mr. Weaver has stated, it's all personal preference. I'm sure what I use my #8's for, some people would have a heart attack about. I'm sure what I use my #2 for, some people would tell me is a completely stupid use.

My LN #4 1/2 is my final go-to smoothing plane because it's at 50* pitch, heavy, and wide. I appreciate it's heft and the thinner-than-paper shavings it takes and the tear-out it eliminates. However, my 604, 603 and #2 are all used for only spot smoothing; I take a straight-edge, pull it along a board, and look for high spots. Depending on size of high spot, I pick the size of smoother that best handles it.

Tonight I used all 3 - my #3 took the first shot at smoothing, my #2 worked out a low spot that the #3 couldnt and I finished with my #4. I dont know if thats normal or sensible, but it works for my current skill level -I take a slightly thicker cut with the #3 and reserve the #4 for that very fine (0.002) final smoothing. I tried a 4 1/2 recently and found it too heavy for my taste. (I really wanted to like that tool - Ive heard so many good things about 'em.) But I use the #3 and #4 a lot.

[Winton Applegate]

Just when I get the prize for sucketude . . .
Derek comes along and blasts me off the map.

I won't ever catch up there.
+ 1 on the LV BU
I sure wish I had thought to get a # 4 handle for my #3.
Back then I was a wide eyed newbie, I had no idea how to make a decent handle (still don't).
You know . . . thinking back I may have looked at that and decided the stock # 4 handle would over lap into the blade.
Or did I just dream that up just now ?

Derek,
Did you have to modify the larger handle to get it to work out ?

PS: Oooohhh . . . the high angle frog . . . there was no HAF when I had my #3 . . that came years later.

[Frederick Skelly]

Just when I get the prize for sucketude . . .
Derek comes along and blasts me off the map.

Naaah, you still get one of the sucketude prizes for that magnificent workworkbench, Win. Nobody can take that from ya. (Ok, maybe if someone sells their house, buys a bunch of ebony and builds a bench from it. ) Your bench is nicer than some (most?) of my living room furniture!

Loved the Marcou, Derek!

Fred