Do You Use a Screw Chuck?...A Glue Block?...

[robert baccus]

I would use CA all the time to save time. Screw chucks are not for endgrain or green soft woods--everything else is OK. If CA glue is a cost thing you sure have a lot of expensive equipment in the pic. You are really talking about a dime per glueblock use.

[Thomas Canfield]

I like to use the worm screw in my chuck to mount smaller work (say 10" down) and a face plate for larger work. I have a 2-7/8" Forstner bit that works to provide a flat face for the worm screw and a 3-1/8" Forstner bit for a 3" face plate. For my 6" face plate I do the best possible to get a flat surface and use a lot of screws. I like to use a glue block to utilize the thickness of better woods, but do not like a glue block on green wood. Sometimes the glue block is incorporated as a feature in a base ring, but usually turned off.

[Wally Dickerman]

I like to use the worm screw in my chuck to mount smaller work (say 10" down) and a face plate for larger work. I have a 2-7/8" Forstner bit that works to provide a flat face for the worm screw and a 3-1/8" Forstner bit for a 3" face plate. For my 6" face plate I do the best possible to get a flat surface and use a lot of screws. I like to use a glue block to utilize the thickness of better woods, but do not like a glue block on green wood. Sometimes the glue block is incorporated as a feature in a base ring, but usually turned off.

I like the Large forstner bit idea to get a true surface.

[Eric Gourieux]

you really do not get the full effect of the vanishing with a small footed hf when its on the lathe, need to view from above

Charlie, can you elaborate? I missed your point

[Eric Gourieux]

I assume that remounting with a screw chuck allows one to remount the piece, and it will run true. Correct? Would it be the same for the wormscrew and chuck? I just have a bunch of chucks, so I can keep a process going. The screw/wormscrew idea would be more cost effective.

[Wally Dickerman]

I assume that remounting with a screw chuck allows one to remount the piece, and it will run true. Correct? Would it be the same for the wormscrew and chuck? I just have a bunch of chucks, so I can keep a process going. The screw/wormscrew idea would be more cost effective.

The hole always in in the center of the piece so yes it will run true. Probably better than with a chuck and tenon. Just be sure to always seat the piece very snug to the Screw chuck. I always tighten with a large slip-joint pliers

[David Delo]

I would use CA all the time to save time. Screw chucks are not for endgrain or green soft woods--everything else is OK. If CA glue is a cost thing you sure have a lot of expensive equipment in the pic. You are really talking about a dime per glueblock use.

Yea I guess that is a dumb excuse on my part. Thanks for pointing that out.

[charlie knighton]

Eric,

Originally Posted by charlie knighton you really do not get the full effect of the vanishing with a small footed hf when its on the lathe, need to view from above
Charlie, can you elaborate? I missed your point

I was referring to Faust observation :

I am looking at the picture on your post and realizing how much working room you have between the hollow form and the chuck. I assume you left more thickness there to do the hollowing then worked down the outside of the bottom when the inside was nearly finished.

I like hf with small feet, respect the turner who manages the safety and stability of the turning of this form . Wally's hf is just excellent, but the picture on the lathe does not show the dramatic effect from looking from above,

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Wally, you are truly a great resource as many have already said in this post. I'm going to look into a "true" screw chuck. I have used the grub screw in the scroll chuck, but the new information you gave does peak my interest, and may be worth while getting. (any excuse to buy more toys. I mean, tools)

Thank you for your post!

[Russell Neyman]

All of the above -- screw chucks, glue blocks, whatever -- are put to use in my shop and in most cases they're interchangable. Having said that:

The screw oriented systems are handy when you're roughing an irregular piece with lots of inclusions and bark. I mount those between centers to get it hbalanced and, mist often, turned to fit a four-jaw chuc
Glue blocks offer several advantages. The buffer they provide eliminates the screw holes left when bowls aremounted directly to a faceplate, and the added distance from the power head often increases access to the base. BUT that same added length will exacerbate any vibrations that you may have.

For safety's sake, keep the tailstock engaged as much as possible.

[Thomas Canfield]

I like the Large forstner bit idea to get a true surface.

I will also shim up the blank to get the orientation wanted before using the Forstner bit. That works for drilling the bark side or a rough cut from chain saw. Make sure you go with the slower drill speed as recommended. That eliminates the hassle of trying to hold a heavy chuck between centers to get orientation desired.