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Thread: Bandsaw wheel alignment?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    yakima, wa
    Posts
    273

    Bandsaw wheel alignment?

    Hi Everyone,
    I'm in the process of tuning my 14" Griz b/s. I installed two new urethane tires and have noticed that the two wheels are not co-planar. When I center the blade on the upper wheel, it is riding about 3/16" outboard on the lower wheel. Should they be closer to co-planar than that? It appears that I would have to shim the lower wheel out to adjust this, is that correct? TIA.
    Jerry

  2. #2
    I have asked this question before, but in a slightly different manner, and never got a direct answer.

    When the books and posts say to make the wheels co-planer: is this with no blade on? is this with a blade on and at full tension and adjusted as close to center running as possible? or where in between?, is it with the tracking knob all the way in?, centered?, all the way out?

    I can make mine co-planer (or really close) with no blade on and by adjusting the tracking knob. When I put a blade on and tension it and then adjust the tracking knob they become non-co-planer.

    Where is this co-planer (in reference to the tracking adjustment knob) that I should look for?

    George

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    yakima, wa
    Posts
    273
    Hi George,
    I guess that my assumption at this point is that i would set my upper wheel at plumb and the align the two. It seems to me that a bit of mis-alignment after adjusting the tilt on the upper wheel for tracking would be acceptable. I have done an article search in WOOD and FWW and plan to pull those articles tonight to see what they recommend but I generally rely on the opinions/experience of our cohorts here first. Jerry

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Spokane, Washington
    Posts
    4,021
    A bandsaw should be set up so that the wheels will be coplaner using the widest blade for resawing or joinery work. If coplaner for a one inch blade, which requires more tension, it will be out when a narrow blade is used. For just sawing curves, this is not a big deal, but if you are cutting the shoulder of a tenon, or doing a dovetail, you want the top of the cut and the bottom of the cut to end in the same plane.

    I just had this conversation with MiniMax, they set their saws to be coplaner with the 1" TriMaster, fuguring that would be the blade used most in critical situations.

    You should be able to adjust the machine to be coplaner using any blade, but it probably wouldn't be worth the trouble. If you only use narrow bleades, then set it up for those.

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Southwest Florida
    Posts
    1,482
    According to the "Band Saw Handbook" here is a brief summary of the proper adjustment:

    1. Tension the widest blade that you can use on your saw. (However I agree with Dan. If your saw will take a 3/4" blade maximum and you never or rarely use more that a 1/2" blade, make the adjustment with the 1/2" blade.)

    2. Use a straight edge to make sure the wheels are parallel to each other. You may have to angle the top wheel to get them parallel.

    3. Measure the misaligment (the difference in the vertical plane). If the distance of the misaligment is different at the top of the top wheel than it is at the bottom of the top wheel, adjust the top wheel untill the measurement is the same at both points. Once the distance is the same that is the amount that you need to move either the top or bottom wheel depending on what brand of saw that you have. My note (Delta models move the top wheel by adding or removing washers behind the wheel. I do not know about other specific models but some move the bottom wheel using a different technique.).

    4. After the alignment always rotate the wheel several times to make sure that the blade is tracking and then recheck the alignment.

    This procedure wooks very well for me. Just be aware that each blade will track a little differently.

    George, In relation to your question about the tracking adjustment setting you will notice that that is taken care of in steps 2. and 3. as you adjust the upper wheel to make it parallel to the lower wheel. Also as for tension - use normal tension for your widest blade in step 1. (Caution - do not overtension as this can lead to real problems during alignment.)

    I have tried my best but I know that this procedure seems difficult and/or confusing without seeing pictures or seeing it being done. It is actually quite simple to grasp if you see a visual presentation. You may want to get hold of a video or good book or both on the subject. My library actually has a good video on the band saw, believe it ot not.
    Last edited by Allen Bookout; 07-12-2005 at 1:48 AM.

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