What finish to make figured cherry pop!?!?

[George Farra]

Hi Everyone

I made a small table from cherry and the legs have a nice figured grain to them. After sanding, I wiped the peice with denatured alcohol and the grain just popped. The piece will be used to hold a small 5 gallon fish tank.....so I do want to put a coat or 2 of poly as a last step for better water protection.

What can I use under the poly to make the grain pop like it did when I wiped it down?

Thanks

George

[Jim Becker]

If the "poly" you are using is oil-based, that's all you need. If are using a water borne "poly", then you may want to use a very thin application of BLO with a barrier coat of de-waxed shellac for your "pop".

[George Farra]

Thanks Jim

Yes my poly is water based. Thought I'm thinking for this project an oil based poly may be the way to go. probably would give me better protection against moisture in the long run since a fish tank is going to sit on this table

George

[Prashun Patel]

Are you planning to build up a film? If yes, then I'd suggest a different finish from poly; use an alkyd or phenolic oil-based varnish instead. I just think it looks less like plastic when built up.

If you are not planning to make the film thick, then the benefit of this 'clarity' is less - um - clear.

[George Farra]

Thanks Prashun. I did build up a film then I made plant stands for my wife and I agree with the plastic appearance. I would like to avoid that. I've never worked with varnish. Would you suggest anything under it or will the varnish make the grain pop while adding the needed protection? Does it work similar to poly...meaning applied by brush, or can it be wiped on?

Thanks

George

[Prashun Patel]

Poly is a type of varnish. The other varnishes apply similarly. They can be brushed thick or thinned and wiped.

[George Farra]

thank you very much. Appreciate the help

[Jim Becker]

George, "poly" just refers to polyurethane resins in the finish. Polyurethane finishes were originally developed for abrasion resistance...such as for floors. They are quite durable in that respect. But they sometimes lack the clarity that other types of resins used to make "clear" finishes...hence, the reality that sometimes they have a more "plasticy" look. (They also don't like to even stick to themselves, but that's a whole 'nuther subject) Oil based varnishes that have other types of resins in their formula are often preferred for furniture products. The challenge is that they are harder to source because a large percentage of the clear finishes marketed by retailers are all polyurethane based. But "real" paint stores, such as Sherwin Williams stores will have alternative products available if you want a non-poly finish. Oil based varnishes are best applied with a brush, pad and/or roller because they dry slowly. They can also be thinned considerably with mineral spirits and wiped on in very thin coats. (about three wiped on per equivalent one brushed on) While they can be sprayed, most folks avoid that because the overspray tends to be a sticky mess because of the slow dry time. (Spraying is best for fast drying/curing finishes in that respect) I will mention that oil based finishes have some natural "warmth" in them because of the oils and resins...it varies by product, but these qualities are what makes it possible to skip some of the extra "popping" steps that were at the root of this thread.

Water borne finishes are kind of a different animal than oil based products. In most cases the "water" is just the carrier; the finish is suspended in the water for application and after a coat is on the project, the water evaporates and the finish cures. You really cannot thin water borne finishes very much at all. Why? Because the water is, as mentioned, just the carrier. Thinning by adding additional water means you're spreading out the actual finish molecules which after a point makes for a horrible result. That all said, most water borne finishes do not impart the "warmth" that is natural to oil based 'clear' finishes so we either add a little amber dye to add color or do the BLO and de-waxed shellac step to add both "pop" and color to wood. Most water borne finishes are great for spraying. They can also be applied with a brush, pad or roller, but one has to remember that you have very little time to "work" the finish, unlike with oil based products.

[Jim Matthews]

I like Waterlox on Cherry.

[Bob Wingard]

+1 on the WATERLOX ... I still thin it a LOT and wipe it on in several coats. The thin/wipe works great for any oil-based varnish. It just gives the surface a nice look, and I never get that plastic look.

[Prashun Patel]

George, I echo these guys on Waterlox. It's a phenolic varnish. here's what you need to know about buying waterlox though:

There is an Original Sealer Finish which is pre-thinned to be wiped on (you can brush it, but it'll take more than the full strength product). The OSF is also darker in color than the full-strength versions. There are also 2 versions of the OSF, the ORIGINAL, and the VOC Compliant version. You want the Original OSF formulation. It's cheaper and easier to apply than the VOC version. But you can only get it in quarts shipped to most states - not gallons. The OSF goes on very glossy, but cures over weeks to a semigloss.

If you want high gloss, you need to get the Waterlox Original Gloss Finish. It's in a green can. This product brushes very well, but in my limited experience doesn't thin very well with mineral spirits. For some reason I get streaks when wiping it thinned in MS.

If I were to go with Waterlox, I'd go with the OSF Original formulation. A quart will be plenty for your stand. Wipe it on. You may have to do more coats than if you brushed, but it's quite easy. It imparts great color to cherry.

[Jim Becker]

I sure wish there was a "like" button I could use on Prashun's post. (#11)

[George Farra]

Thank you all. I definitely want a warm look to the piece so I am going to find Waterlox's Original formula. Last night I made a design change and the top now features figured wood with a filled knot. So I definitely want the piece to have a rich warm glow to it versus a plasticy coating. Now with this wood as the top....I probably wont be covering it up with a fish tank!! Looks like a have a new project to start once this is done

Again. thank you so much for your help

George

[Kent A Bathurst]

Pix, please, when done.

[Jim Rimmer]

Pix, please, when done.

Yep, gotta have the pix, otherwise it didn't happen.