What finish for a small wooden hand plane ?

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi guys.
Im nearly done with a small krenov style smoother in maple. I was thinking of using 2 coats of Danish Oil for the finish. I like that for a variety of reasons, including the fact its a rub on finish and its easy to recoat if it wears.

Is that suitable or do I need something thats harder/more durable?

Thank you,
Fred

[Kees Heiden]

Usually I just use linseed oil and a bit of wax. But your Danisg oil is fine too.

[Matthew N. Masail]

I've used tung oil, wax and shellac finishes. I like a few coats of diluted shellac the best.

[Jim Tremain]

Linseed oil, but it stays sticky for a long time. Tru-Oil is supposed to be good for tool handles and things that are handled a lot like guitar necks and I dries faster.

Jim

[David Weaver]

I like oil and wax, but if you get swarf on your hands, your planes will get dirty (mine do, but I'm OK with it).

If you want to be able to clean swarf off of the stone, you need to put some kind of film finish that gets harder than oil and wax on the tool, and is less permeable. I'd probably do danish oil or a light coat of shellac.

[george wilson]

How about a good thick slathering with tallow!!

[Frederick Skelly]

Thank you guys! I went ahead with the Danish Oil. It looks splendid on that Maple. This is one of the LV kits where they sell you a Norris-style adjuster and an A2 blade. You bring your own wood, make design your own shape, cut it out and shape it. (Its a krenov laminated type plane. ) Not quite as "paint by numbers" as the Hock kits Ive seen that even have the parts cut out, but pretty basic. Anyway, Ill put the HW on it tomorrow and if she works, Ill post a pic and brief review of the kit.

Have a good weekend!
Fred

PS, I dont have any tallow Mr Wilson, or Id sure give it a try. You were right on the mark when you said to put mothballs in the boxes I made to store my plow and rabbett planes - not one drop of rust. They must have enough camphor in them to do the job. Thank you for that!