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Thread: Heating a Garage Woodshop

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    30

    Heating a Garage Woodshop

    Hello,

    I am inquiring for some knowledge on how to heat my garage woodshop. I have done some research, and noticed a lot about in floor radiant heat. I do not have that option, although sounds like a great alternative. I have been looking into electric fan forced heaters or gas possible, pending the cost associated. The one concern I have noticed is that there can be some dangerous situations with negative air flow, and possible dust explosion. What should I be careful about negative air return or what would be the best option to heat my woodshop?

    Thanks,

    Gary

  2. #2
    Check this out, very good reviews.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Williams-...-100084617-_-N

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    I use electric. Keeps the garage/shop to 40º, and I crank it up when I'll be out there.
    I ordered it from greenhousemegastore. They have a huge selection of gas, electric, etc.
    Mine is 17,500 watts, but I moved a plug in it to the next lower value. Something like 14,000.
    It is a 230 volt unit.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Lakewood, WA
    Posts
    229
    I have a 1000 sq ft shop, insulated. I picked up a used mobile home furnace for $25, 220 volt and it works great.

  5. #5
    I am going to have a radiant heater installed in my small shop soon,after researching what's available and what's the most appropriate type of heater for a woodworking shop ,I have come to the conclusion that tube heaters/radiant heaters would be the best type ,they don't not have an open flame,don't take the combustion air from outside,heat the objects in front of them not the space .

    The gas installer that did my fireplace swears by Schwank radiant tube heaters,the one for a small shop is model P40-R ,I still don't know how much it's going to cost but I already have natural gas in the vicinity of my shop so installation won't be from scratch.
    http://www.schwankusa.com/tube-heate...p40-r/compact/
    Last edited by ken masoumi; 10-05-2014 at 8:12 PM.

  6. #6
    Myk, Any idea about what that costs you a month to run?

    I'm thinking about putting an electric heater in instead of running a gas line out to the garage. I'm just afraid it's going to cost a fortune to run.

  7. #7
    I've got a Modine Hot Dawg in my two care garage. I think it's the 45K BTU unit. It works fine here in southern MN.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,644
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Richards View Post
    I've got a Modine Hot Dawg in my two care garage. I think it's the 45K BTU unit. It works fine here in southern MN.
    I have the Sterling version 45K unit. Total cost installing it myself was less than $500. I did have it blessed by a HVAC pro.
    It's one of the best shop investments I have made.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    I have the Sterling version 45K unit. Total cost installing it myself was less than $500. I did have it blessed by a HVAC pro.
    It's one of the best shop investments I have made.
    Is there any worry of all the dust being created, that may cause the heater to create a fire or dust explosion? I am thinking of electric or gas, and was just curious. Thanks.

  10. #10
    I plan to have an electric heater with an oil filled element, I'll put it near the inlet for outside air. Long term plans are to build a solar heating system to get a few extra kWs during winter.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
    Posts
    1,301
    I have in floor radient heat, however when I was building my house I used a mobile home electric heater. As Don suggested. It worked great. Intake at top and outlet at bottom. You would need to hard wire due to amp draw, but it worked great. I tried to use propane when my shop was under construction, but not satisfied with that.
    Last edited by William C Rogers; 10-06-2014 at 6:11 AM. Reason: spelling

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    Any heat source, with exposed heating elements can be a risk for dust explosions.

    The dust concentrations need to be pretty high.
    When was the last time you heard of one?

    *******

    If it's a serious concern, dust collection and ventilation should be
    your first orders of business.

    *******

    It's unorthodox, but if you're concerned about sparks, or an open flame
    I would run an electric hot water heater on demand
    pumped through baseboards.


    *****

    Christian Becksvoort heats his shop with a woodstove.
    This requires that the shop be tidy, and sawsdust
    swept out, regularly. He's been at it awhile.

    http://www.chbecksvoort.com/

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Petit View Post
    Is there any worry of all the dust being created, that may cause the heater to create a fire or dust explosion? I am thinking of electric or gas, and was just curious. Thanks.
    As Jim says, the dust concentrations would have to be pretty high for there to be a problem. I think you'd be choked out first. I don't have any problems with mine. I climb up once in awhile when I think about it and vacuum any dust that might accumulate off of it. With an air filtration unit and the dust collector, it really isn't an issue.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    My shop is abt. 400 sq. ft., 9 ft. ceilings, insulated windows and doors, walls and ceiling. My go-to unit is an oil filled elec. radiator. Might use 2 units if it is really cold, but, in Mississippi, that's a rare happening.
    Some may say that they are not the most economical, but with the low initial cost of the units and all the insulation, I find them to be quite adequate.
    No worry about open flame, dust, fumes, etc.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Duvall, WA
    Posts
    706
    I'm working in an extended space of about 12 x 20, situated in the back of an attached 2-car garage (overall size of 30 x20 with a 10 foot ceiling height). The space is insulated (except for the 2 car doors) and heats up well with a thermostatically controlled 5,000 W electric heater (Fahrenheat) that I bought from HD. I've mounted it to the ceiling in the corner of the shop area and given it a dedicated 220V 30A breaker, so there's no interference with the dust collector or other large power consumers. After heating the space initially, it cycles on and off every 20-30 minutes, running for only 5 minutes or so depending on how cold it is outside and whether I'm opening and closing doors or windows. The main reason for this solution was portability--so that I could pack it up and take it with me to my next place, when we downsize for retirement (if that ever really happens ).

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