Clear wood grain filler?

[Brian W Smith]

This may be hard to describe.......as it's an optical illusion of sorts.If you put a "clear" filler in a pore/crack/whatever,a lot of times it will show up as a dark spot if,the hole has any depth to it.Obviously it depends on the species and depth of hole,as always...test it first.Good luck.

[Mark Bolton]

Mark, I use whatever works for the project. If I had a good clear filler, I would use whatever works best with that product. Generally speaking though, I use poly (solvent based) or Waterlox original.

If your running oil based poly (something like minwax) there is, in my opinion, no reason why you shouldn't be able to have a relately flat surface on, for instance, red oak with three heavy coats. If you apply your first two coats relativy heavy with only a light cross grain scuff/de-nib between then a hard cross grain scuff between 2 and 3 your final surface should be nearly flat. On a fourth coat it would be for sure.

That's a lot of drying time in there though but I have done basically the same thing with CV or WB lacquer. Two fairly heavy coats right at the mfrs wet film limit, then cut the bulk of it off sanding cross grain with a block and one or two finish coats. You've cut the bulk of the material off filling the grain so you don't exceed the max dry film.

The cross grain sanding is the key for me with oak. If you sand with the grain or with an RO you just scoop out the pores and never gain much ground.

It'd seem easier to fill the grain with a dedicated product if your using any finish with a long dry time. But if your using something that's ready to sand in 30-60 minutes I'd just build up with finish.

Just my 0.02

[Max Neu]

Whenever I want to fill the grain with just the finish,I reduce the sealer coat 30%,lightly scuff,seal again with a coat reduced 20%,scuff,then proceed as normal with a full strength sealer coat.I have found I get better grain filling with reduced coats because it keeps the finish from "bridging" across the grain,it's more likely to fall into the grain.Of course different methods apply to different products and equipment being used,but that works best for me using 2K poly with an air assisted airless.

[Stan Calow]

Crystalac is what I've used. I forget which retailer sells it - Rockler or Lee Valley.

[Scott Holmes]

When I need a clear grain filler it use CrystaLac® Clear Waterborne Wood Grain Filler. You can also tint it very slightly if you want.

[glenn bradley]

That's clever. I don't think I've heard of that before. By oil finish, are you talking about something like Waterlox?

Yes, PofP is cheap enough that you could pick up a box and try it with your favorite finish. If it didn't work, it would be no big loss. I have used it with BLO, oil based pigment finishes from Cabot's, Minwax, Olympic, and GF as well. Like a good color-match filler the PofP just sort of visually disappears into surface.