Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 48

Thread: More Beech Plane Ideas?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    There is 16/4 maple on Highland lumber's retail list, but it's 10 bucks a be foot plus shipping, and you'd need to get some other qs maple for the handle.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Enchanted land of beer, cheese & brats
    Posts
    1,314
    Would you skew the iron on your badger or just go straight?

    PS I knew nothing about a badger plane before this thread. Must the iron be skewed to be a badger plane? How is it different than a rabbit plane?
    Last edited by Judson Green; 10-30-2014 at 10:49 AM.
    I got cash in my pocket. I got desire in my heart....

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    I'd skew it. I've never seen a badger plane that wasn't skewed. The only reason to skew a plane, well, there are two - first reason on something like a large moulding plane would be to engage a complex profile a little at a time and get a good cut start. I have no idea if any old cornice planes are skewed, though, most had handles for a second person or a hole to tie a rope on.

    The second is because a skewed plane can shear off grain, instead of pushing or stripping it off. To get an idea of what I mean, take a plane and plane directly across grain on some medium hardwood. Then take the plane and plane with it skewed 25 degrees to the left. The cut will be miles better across the grain with the skewed plane because the iron is cutting the straws at the right side rather than engaging each straw all at once, stripping some of them from the surface of the wood.

    I did get a hold of horizon, and they do have some beech. I'm waiting back to hear from them about the stock, it's sort of a slow process and the beech is expensive, and they said the next batch will be more expensive (more than 16/4 maple costs). I can understand their position, though, there's nothing nice about milling or drying 16/4 beech, and they hinted that they're only doing it because nobody else is and I'd suppose for them that it's probably not a money maker (they didn't say that) even at the high price.

    However, nobody should order until I've completed my order

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Shea View Post
    Funny you say that David, I sent them an email about two weeks ago asking them for the same exact thing 16/4 beech. I even said in the email I would settle for maple only because im more interested in getting a working plane than trying to keep with traditional materials. The Beech would def be a lot nicer to make a plane with though. I have struck out everywhere I have looked and asked for this material. It is ridiculous that it is so difficult to find this material.
    Hearne has 16/4 maple for about $10.50 a bd foot or something like that for boards less than 9". You could ask them to get as close to 8" as possible, as that would allow finishing two full width jointer/try planes and it would be easier to get a hold of than beech. The difference I've noticed between maple and beech is that beech is more forgiving and I like the way it grips the wedge a little better...and maple makes for a loud plane (but still a good plane)

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Enchanted land of beer, cheese & brats
    Posts
    1,314
    I guess I don't understand how a badger plane is different than a simple rabbiting plane.
    I got cash in my pocket. I got desire in my heart....

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    It cuts a show surface across the grain. A rabbeting plane is usually cutting a surface that will be covered in a joint if it's cutting across the grain.

    (You'll find a lot of old rabbet planes are skewed, though, as are dado planes).

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Charlotte, MI
    Posts
    1,523
    Well... you could make me a nice 18th c. single iron fore plane and I'll pay you handsomely for the effort! I need a new jack and don't have time to make it myself at the moment.
    Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    Single iron planes. I wouldn't know how they'd work

    Just kidding. There's a couple of guys making them already, and I doubt I could make them better.

    One of the things I'm going to make for me is a 2 1/2" double iron continental smoother. I really like those. Small sizes are everywhere. A big one would be interesting because you can two hand them.
    Last edited by David Weaver; 10-30-2014 at 3:52 PM.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Israel
    Posts
    1,503
    Blog Entries
    1
    how about a toted smoother, 45 or 50 with double iron. I Imagine the lower CE (center of effort if to borrow a term from Derek Cohen) would help with the lower mass of a wooden plane and feel more like a no.4. Beech wouldn't be my first choice though for wight reasons, does it have to be beech? (I know I'm not following with the beech love... sorry)

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    It could really be anything, I guess. I just like the way beech looks, but don't love its (lack of) weight for smoothers (thus no coffin smoothers out of it). A handled smoother is not a bad idea, though they still do have a high center. The preference for continental planes in that size is that you can literally get two hands of power on them and the lack of weight isn't as noticeable. The ebony muji planes are about as heavy as a medium sized coffin smoothers, but you can use them in heavy work a lot better.

    I may yet try some maple, but remember from making a couple of moulding planes out of it that it's not as friendly to a hand-tools-only type as beech, and errant strokes of a float or a chisel back into the grain make bigger nasties than on beech.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ellsworth, Maine
    Posts
    1,805
    I did get a hold of horizon, and they do have some beech. I'm waiting back to hear from them about the stock, it's sort of a slow process and the beech is expensive, and they said the next batch will be more expensive (more than 16/4 maple costs). I can understand their position, though, there's nothing nice about milling or drying 16/4 beech, and they hinted that they're only doing it because nobody else is and I'd suppose for them that it's probably not a money maker (they didn't say that) even at the high price.
    So how much more are they getting for the Beech? Interesting that they still have not answered two emails I've sent them. I'm sure I would do much better calling them but by the time Im out of work it is far too late and far too early when I go into work. I am with you on how nice Beech is to work with. I have come across some old 7/8" shelves that came from an old library that were torn out. I used a lot of the stock for the bottom shelf of my bench build an absolutely loved working it. It was like working with walnut but took a polish off my smoother like maple does. I didn't have to chop any mortises but planed a bunch of rabbets and surfaced them all down to 3/4" with hand planes, this ended up being some of my favorite wood to work with next to pear and apple.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    It's not that easy to get a hold of anyone by phone, either. Just south of $14 a foot for the current stuff, but it is almost out. They have more air drying to go in the kiln.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    Well, that escalated quickly. My wood is coming early next week. I'll take a picture of it for anyone who is thinking about buying beech. The pictures of the stuff they sent me is pretty much dead QS - it pretty much matches the price, can't really complain.

    It makes for an expensive hobby, though!!
    Last edited by David Weaver; 10-31-2014 at 2:12 PM.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,076
    Pictures of the goods - a lifetime supply for a hobbyist like me. I'm stoked!

    beech 1.jpg
    beech2.jpgbeech3.jpg

  15. #45
    Are you sure it is beech? (Just kidding). When I look at the endgrain of my rough sawn boards, the most obvious feature are the rays. In these small pictures on my cellphone I can't see them.

    It sure looks like a big haul! Enough for a new career as planemaker.
    Last edited by Kees Heiden; 11-03-2014 at 2:53 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •