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Thread: Which plane to buy? Tuning tenons

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Berlin View Post
    I always wondered about the LV Japanese Milled Files as use as a float. I think it would work about the same as a lie neilsen float for 1/3 cost. Might be worth a look. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...,42524&p=63451
    That's what I use, and they work great. Tenon size will determine if one is right for the job though. I used the small x-fine for the small tenons on a window sash project to fit hundreds of small tenons, and I wouldn't have wanted to be without it. I do use the larger ones once in a while if one is the right size..

  2. #32
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    [QUOTE=Kent A Bathurst;2326120]I have the pair of LN joinery floats - cheek float and face float. These two made as dramatic improvement in fitting tenons as anything short of my TS tenon jig. Remarkable - that's all I can tell you. Easy to use, and very quick. Cheek float most commonly used inside the mortise. And - a shoulder plane. I watched a video or read a photo story from Derek C, and that made the light go off on how to use it - I had been holding that darn thing all wrong. Duh !! Works like a charm.

    Where would one find the video or photo story you spoke about. I may be holding it wrong as well.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I see no consensus here. I guess you pay your money and take your choice.
    Most likely it is the different methods which with people have become comfortable.

    A router plane with a depth stop takes a lot of the fear out of the equation. Set the depth stop and go to work. Working from both sides keeps the tenon centered. Remember to check the fit.

    A plane, whether it is a shoulder or a rabbet plane takes a bit more care during the work. One has to constantly check for fit.

    Paring with a chisel takes a steady hand and a lot of care while remembering to check the fit.

    Using a float or a shear file requires a different skill set and checking the fit often.

    Then comes the error of removing too much material. Glue a shaving or two on the tenon and check the fit.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    Where would one find the video or photo story you spoke about. I may be holding it wrong as well.
    Derek has a website:

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/

    That is the home page. Check the categories below for a wealth of information.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Derek has a website:

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/

    That is the home page. Check the categories below for a wealth of information.

    jtk
    It has been a long time, so I went looking. I think it must have been here:

    http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lderPlane.html


    As you scroll down, you will come to later section[s] where he is holding it - especially where he is using it on the pull stroke for trimming the shoulders. That is the technique I had never even thought of - and it works wonderfully for me. Easy to control, move, and keep registered against the shoulder. Made all the difference in the world. I don't have the LV, I have the LN, so I am hooking finger[s] thru the blade "throat". It doesn't have the round thumb hole [or, whatever it is called].
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  6. #36
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    I found the same site. I don't know why I never knew how to hold the plane. It certainly makes a difference.

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