SandBlast Gun

[John Bion]

Hi All,
I am needing to upgrade my sandblaster with a new gun; I have seen the PAB gun mentioned on this forum; would this remain a firm/good choice or are there other (perhaps less pricey ) options? I have had a look on the web at PAB guns, they look great. If a PAB gun is a good choice, and considering I do both glass and wood, I assume that the larger gun would be the better option?
Thanks and regards, John

[Mike Null]

John

I had a PAB gun and liked it very much. I used it exclusively for glass and crystal. The biggest advantage to it is the high level of control you can achieve with it.

I believe a home made rig using carbide nozzles and a pinch clamp will achieve similar results for a lot less money.

I never used mine for wood but am quite sure that you'll have to use a different material--I used 180 grit silicon carbide for glass. BTW, I also marked some stainless steel with it. In the photo I attempted to match the name to the rest of the etching and it turned out to be a good guess. (it was a Marine officer's sword presented as a gift)

[John Bion]

Mike,
Thanks for your reply. The sword looks great, I had never thought of using sand blasting on stainless. We have a Royal Engineers base near us I am hoping to make inroads into.
Having now looked around more, and having seen the principle of how the PAB gun works, I am thinking of making a wooden foot controlled version. I have not yet thought through the nozzle end of things though.
Thanks again and Kind Regards, John

[Mike Null]

The nozzle is probably the most important part. The reason you use silcone carbide as the medium for glass is that it is recyclable almost forever. That means it retains its cutting edge and will enlarge the opening in nozzles quickly if they aren't carbide. A smaller diameter allows for finer work and takes less air pressure. Wood would take a nozzle with a larger opening.

A foot control is very handy (footy?) but the pinch clamp works quite well and is easier to rig.

[John Bion]

Mike, Thanks for your input. Your bringing up the sword (and a conversation I had with Dave S), has made me ponder whether Sandblasting may be a good alternative to rotary engraving for brass and trophies? I have been looking out for a rotary engraver as a small add on (as I have had a number of requests for metal engraving), but if the sandblaster is viable it may be far better given odd shapes etc; what would your feeling be about this? I will gladly give it a test - once I have resolved my present nozzle/gun problem, but thought I would pose the question here.
Thanks again for your time and advice.
Kind regards, John

[Mike Null]

John

I rarely use the sandblaster for metal work as it is nearly impossible to achieve any real depth. I marked some knives which had a black coating and the sword but I wouldn't recommend it as an alternative to rotary or diamond drag engraving of awards, etc. I use my Newing Hall machine every week and at certain times of the year, every day. I have the power vise for the NH and that allows me to do cylindrical work which has been quite profitable.

As a matter of fact I am discontinuing sandblasting/carving as it is a dirty, time consuming process for which I have not been paid a fair price. Even so, it is still the best way to mark glass and crystal which was my reason for buying the equipment. I have now decided to outsource those products. (they do not represent a high percentage of my business.

[Wayne Webb]

I used a simple ball-valve for years, made tens of thousands of dollars worth of sandblasted signs with it using western cedar, redwood, and HDU and made quite a few monuments out of marble, granite, and sandstone. My last rig was a 600# commercial pot with 150cfm rotary screw compressor. I started out cutting the sandblast stencils by hand but soon went to cutting them on my Ioline Plotter which saves a ton of labor. But the very most important piece of equipment is your PPE; your respirator system. Mine was a fully enclosed Bullard system with helmet, cape, airline and free-air breathable air pump. I sold my setup two years ago and just use the CNC now

About the nozzle valve, they have an automatic shutoff feature in case you drop it; so you don't blast a hole in your leg or something so I wouldn't use a "ball valve" if you're not comfortable with that.

[Matt Geraci]

I do sandblasting exclusively. Glass, ceramics, metals. I've gotten a respectable etching depth into stainless using thick stencil material and high pressures. Had success engraving various guns, knives, and other projects and get enough depth to color fill. I use a modified industrial Empire 100lb pressure pot with a footswitch, 80 gallon high CFM compressor. It's a big set up but I'm fully invested into blasting though. Considering adding a laser engraver for some projects - much less prep work and clean up...

IMG_1489.JPGIMG_5112.jpegIMG_1490.JPG

[John Bion]

HI Matt,
Thanks for your reply. Those samples look great. What do you use for paint fill?
I did end up getting a PAB gun and it has made the world of difference. that was on the plus side, now on the negative: I was very disappointed at the poor quality of manufacture of the device. It works very well, but for the money it is very cheaply made, inexcusably so in fact. As for the T piece for the bottom of the pressure pot, that really was a total rip off, a few dollars of parts sold for big dollars (here in the UK at any rate) and I had to re-glue the little feeder pipe in as it was such a shoddy job done that it just slipped out.
Kind Regards, John

[Mike Null]

John

I'm glad you kind of like the PAB gun. It is a rather expensive piece considering the simplicity of design and low cost of the parts. But I believe it allows you to achieve fine detail that a standard piece wouldn't produce. It is also much cleaner.

I agree on the T.

Matt

That's very nice work. I am particularly impressed with your artwork on the West Point class emblem. I do some of those but I sublimate them so I just use a bitmap.

[John Bion]

HI Mike,
Sorry, re-looking at my post it does sound overly negative! I actually love the PAB gun, the control over grit/air flow it gives is superb and it is light and easy to manipulate and you end up using very little grit. I am glad others recommended it. I was just somewhat taken aback at the manufacture though It does a job superbly and that is what counts.
Kind regards, John

[Matt Geraci]

Thanks guys. I've never used a PAB gun, but have gone through many iterations of equipment, valves, and such over the years. After a few years of harbor freight stuff and various other blaster experiments with "Frankensteined" machines I built, I found an industrial machine at a good price, modified it, and have been blasting with the same equipment for 10+ years now. It just takes a while to find what works for you. I started out before this whole Internet thing was available, so a lot of trial an error on my part til I got it right. Give your tool some time, screw some things up, fix it and I'm sure you'll find your groove! Good luck! Post some pics!

That West Point class crest turned out well. I'm a 1994 graduate, Army EOD guy, Veteran... I made that and auctioned it off for our 20th class reunion, donated the funds to West Point. Cool project!

For the metal I do I'll get a deep engraving using higher pressures and usually use a light coat of enamel paint to fill and add color. When I do stainless it's tough to get a deep "engraving" but I'll plow into it as much as my stencil allows then I'll use a light coat, almost dusting, of a flat black enamel spray paint; let it cure; then remove the stencil 24 hours later. Even though it's tough to cut deep into stainless the enamel bites and does well. Here's a video of my "patented full sleeve tattoo'd coffee mug" - blasted an engraving into a stainless steel travel mug for an old, tattooed Army pal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_io_lYtJn3s
Thanks-
Matt