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Thread: Anyone make their own bandsaw guides from wood?

  1. #1
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    Anyone make their own bandsaw guides from wood?

    Hello. Im wanting to try replacing my euro style guides with wood guides for my MM20. Anyone here done this and can show me some photos.

    Thanks,
    Jack
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  2. #2
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    I've done it lots of times but I don't have any pics, but all I ever did was cut a square of oak and plug it into the guide holder.

  3. #3
    Not to derail your post, but what's the advantage of using wood? (Other than cost, of course.) I might like to try it myself.

    Thanks,
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  4. #4
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    Lignum vitae is often used for such a task. I have not made any myself but have seen them.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  5. #5
    I use lignum vitae as well as other oily exotics. My holders just need something with a 3/8" (square) cross-section, so very easy.

    Although I did replace the bearing rollers on a Rikon-type bandsaw with wood by simply cutting a slot through a block of wood and adding a screw. Worked great.

  6. #6
    Yeah,one place I worked had an old band saw that seemed to have been made for wood guides ,but at some point metal inserts had been substituted. You can ruin a bunch of blades with ONE set of steel blocks ! I made a bunch of pairs out of dogwood ,marked lefts and rights, and stored pairs in clear baggies. Making improvements in a commercial shop on your
    own time is a great way to irritate people!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Thien View Post
    I use lignum vitae as well as other oily exotics. My holders just need something with a 3/8" (square) cross-section, so very easy.

    Although I did replace the bearing rollers on a Rikon-type bandsaw with wood by simply cutting a slot through a block of wood and adding a screw. Worked great.
    My euro guides are large, not sure how to secure the wood in the bearing holder since the euro guides have a threaded end and lock nut. Maybe your idea of making a kerf then using a screw to expand the guide in the holder might work.
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    Not to derail your post, but what's the advantage of using wood? (Other than cost, of course.) I might like to try it myself.

    Thanks,
    Fred
    Hi Fred, Well, I purchased my saw used and the guides where stiff. After soaking them for 30 days in a bucket of WD40 they turned easier but not much. They are loud and just a PITA. I have read several articles on using wood cool blocks that ride against the blade and the advantages are the blocks will not heat the blade, if the blocks come in contact with the blade teeth they will not dull the teeth, less noise and vibration,,,so I have read. Manufactures are invested in metal blade guides which IMO is why you do not see wood guides offered on the internet. Im sure metal guides have their usefulness but not on my machine. Then there is the flip side of the coin,,,,,,,,,do you need guides in the first place. I have read many articles supporting that if your blade tension is perfect then your blade will not need guides to keep it from wandering. Problem is, my bandsaw tensioning gauge is missing the "perfect" mark!

    Jack
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  9. #9
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    Did it all the time on my last bandsaw... needed round inserts... made them out of cherry and would make 6 or so at a time and put them in a container with car oil to soak so when put them on machine, it would kind of lubricate the blade...
    Never had any problem with oil getting on the wood I was cutting...
    They worked better than the original guides and better than "cool blocks" in my opinion...
    One reason I think is that I would push them tight against the blade and that helped hold the blade steady....

  10. #10
    Thanks Jack! I appreciate the help. I'm going to try it myself this weekend!
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  11. #11
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    Give Laguna Tools a call and see if they have a set of ceramic guides that will fit your saw. I made the switch from the Euro guides to ceramic on my Laguna saw and love the outcome. Not a cheap fix, but well worth the effort.
    I am also restoring an older Craftsman band saw (late 40's/early 50's) that had brass guides. Not sure how they will work, but will find out soon.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Wilkins View Post
    Give Laguna Tools a call and see if they have a set of ceramic guides that will fit your saw. I made the switch from the Euro guides to ceramic on my Laguna saw and love the outcome. Not a cheap fix, but well worth the effort.
    I am also restoring an older Craftsman band saw (late 40's/early 50's) that had brass guides. Not sure how they will work, but will find out soon.
    Yeah ceramic blocks are cool (pun intended) but just don't want to drop that much money on them. Least not now, maybe if the blocks I make don't work out.....
    U.S.A.F. Ret. MSgt 2006

  13. #13
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  14. #14
    Thomas, how wide is that blade, and did you use your bandsaw to make the groove?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Aumiller View Post
    Did it all the time on my last bandsaw... needed round inserts... made them out of cherry and would make 6 or so at a time and put them in a container with car oil to soak so when put them on machine, it would kind of lubricate the blade...
    Never had any problem with oil getting on the wood I was cutting...
    They worked better than the original guides and better than "cool blocks" in my opinion...
    One reason I think is that I would push them tight against the blade and that helped hold the blade steady....
    True about oil soaked wood. I used mineral oil, submerged the wood bits and microwaved them for about 45 seconds. The theory is that warmer oil is thinner so will penetrate better. I don't know how true it is but don't see where it'll hurt.
    Last edited by Curt Harms; 10-31-2014 at 9:33 AM.

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