No. I have yet to find one that is not a pain.
No. I have yet to find one that is not a pain.
Overarm guard and splitter on my PM66 whenever they aren't in the way of actually making the cut.
#2 - I use a MJ splitter and no guard.
The POS guard/splitter that came with my Ridgid TS3660 is far too dangerous to have on. It never lined up right from the get go. I lost track of the number of times I had to back the stock I was cutting out & wriggle it around so it would feed through the splitter.
How insanely unsafe is that?
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
My answer would be depends on the operation being done. I have the Sawstop, so I have both However when doing say a non through cut it's only a riving knive. I also use Grp-rrr's as push sticks. (lets not forget the safety glasses and yes even steel toe boots). Sorry I work in manufacturing all my life, so PPE is critical.
Don't have a guard ,the saw didn't come with one.hardly use my table saw .
3 I have a sharkguard on the unisaw, and it does get in the way of narrow rips, but the Hammer tablesaw guard is narrower and narrower rips work ok on it. When I did construction, never used a guard, but now I'm older and appreciate safety more, and don't like sawdust in my eyes.
#1 and #2 here. Never a guard, sometimes a riving knive when the operation benefits. It will be interesting to see how long it takes this thread to blow to bits. There are dozens of pages of this exact same question in the archives and they never end well.
Both 1 and 4 for my situation. I have a sliding tablesaw that came with both a splitter and guard, and also an older Craftsman with neither. Before I got the slider, I had an older Rockwell/Delta with the pop up splitter. It was not a good system, and rarely used. After getting the slider, I began using them all the time. Even without using the guard, a splitter is now there all the time.
Still counting to 10.
Hi, my answer is 3.
My saw has a riving knife and a crown guard with dust extraction.
When I owned a cabinet saw I had an Excalibur overarm guard and a Merlin removable splitter.
I wouldn't reccomend the Shark guard unless it's a model that isn't splitter/riving knife mounted as you won't be able to use it for non through cuts.
regards, Rod.
Oops. I meant to say 1 and 3.
Be careful with that, Habitat could be considered your employer and OSHA applies..........Rod.
P.S. My oldest brother ran into the same problem at Habitat in Ontario.
He informed the manager about their liability for not complying with the law and presto, a new saw with guard appeared.
This will be the only reason I install any form of a guard. The dust off the top of the blade is a real irritation. I do a lot of ripping with the feeder and the blade is burried under the feeder and would love a retractable solution where I could attach the dust collection to a boot on the feeder and keep the wheels clean.
#3: Guard and riving knife whenever it is possible. I just upgraded to a new saw, and added above table dust collection to the mix at the same time. Even with my old delta contractor saw I had the blade guard on whenever I could. Personally, I don't think I need to see the blade- if I can see the wood's relation to the fence as it is fed in and where it is against the fence after the cut, then I think I have enough information.
also use feather boards whenever possible, and a big orange handled push board thing from Bench Dog. Oh, and plus 1 on eye protection, ear protection and steel toe work boots.
Last edited by Mike Heaney; 10-29-2014 at 4:11 PM. Reason: typos and answering the actual question!
I use splitters, Grrrripers and sleds. Push sticks if that's all I can come up with, depending. Never just a bare blade. At my age and stage, on a fixed income, I will stay with what I have, but wish I had a riving knife or enough space for a slider.
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