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Thread: Safety poll: Do you use the guard on your tablesaw?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    SE Kansas City Metro, MO
    Posts
    661
    Riving knife only, haven't used the guard more than a couple of times. I use Grrripper for almost everything and wouldn't be without it or the riving knife. Cross-cut sled gets used as much as possible as well.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Duvall, WA
    Posts
    706
    #3 whenever possible. And as an equal measure, I'll use push sticks, feather boards, or crosscut/panel sleds whenever they're needed or it just makes sense. The 6" rule (maintaining a safe distance between spinning blade and hand) also applies.

    My first tablesaw was an older '60s contractor model Craftsman that didn't have a blade guard or splitter (though it did have an arbor wobble/runout problem). And since I'd first learned to use a tablesaw--in shop class, no less--without the benefit of any safety devices I didn't give the matter too much thought. My current saw (a 2 hp Grizzly 1022 Pro Z) has a standard swing-down style guard and splitter with a set of anti-kickback pawls. It's a pain to setup and remove (repeating ad nauseum), but for some reason--maybe it's because I'm finally getting into woodworking at a later stage in life--I kind of enjoy the process of taking these extra steps. I think somewhere else on this board someone mentioned that this kind of setup activity helps us to slow down a little and approach even the simplest tasks with a little more directed thought--something that's often missing in shop related accidents.
    Last edited by Mike Ontko; 10-29-2014 at 11:01 AM.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    1

    I most always am using a Grr-Ripper, and those accessories get in the way. My TS is not capable of having a riving knife.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  4. #34
    3 - I use a Brett guard and the built in riving knife.

  5. #35
    On the Wadkin PK i still use all of its 70 years old guards. I find there well made and conceived and never in the way. i do love the true riving knife and i don't think i would enjoy operating a 18" saw with out the crown or knife.





    the only time i move the crown is to do a tenon cut and the crown does this very easily with a rotating base.


    the PK also has the sliding rip plate fence so i can pull it back to do the tenon or narrow strip ripping so even with the crown off the saw still has the riving knife and sliding rip plate fence to pull back and stop wood from be trapped in the rising teeth at the back of the blade the main cause of kick back.

    cut with out a crown for tenons
    Last edited by jack forsberg; 10-29-2014 at 11:20 AM.
    jack
    English machines

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    #3. My splitter is part of the guard. I always use both. The only time I remove the guard is when I am using my dado blades.
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 10-29-2014 at 11:53 AM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    2,474
    1- with my trusty old Delta.

    Never installed it when I bought it 40 years ago.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    3,789
    3 The guard isn't necessary, but the splitter sure it. I am astonished by the people saying they don't use splitters!

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    75
    I have the sawstop professional. Seldom use the blade guard, but never use the saw without the riving knife (dados excepted of course). Also always have the push stick at the ready or other jig or sled as appropriate.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bay Area - Northern California
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Anderson View Post
    I have the sawstop professional. Seldom use the blade guard, but never use the saw without the riving knife (dados excepted of course). Also always have the push stick at the ready or other jig or sled as appropriate.
    I'm in the same boat as Eric. I guess that means number 2 for me. I've tried using various guard systems and they always feel more dangerous to me.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,619
    No guard. I use a Biesemeyer drop in splitter for ripping.
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    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  12. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    North of Boston, MA
    Posts
    357
    #2. I've never encountered a guard that didn't get in the way most of the time or prove a PITA to remove and reattach. I'm pretty careful about featherboards and such and have only had a couple of occasions over 30 years when it threw something. However, I worry about all the dust thrown up in the air. To get dust collection above the blade would be my main reason to change.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,830
    #4 Seems the best fit

    I have an early 80's Unisaw that didn't come with a guard, but it has the Delta pop-up splitter that I use whenever ripping. I have 2 Grippers at the Unisaw that I use whenever possible and a Uni-T-Fence and feather boards whenever the Grrippers aren't the best choice. I have a ceiling mounted Brett Guard that presently has some installation issues, but it will be fully operational soon. I also have a ceiling mounted laser that shines a cut line across the surface of the work and the saw. It isn't accurate enough to align to, but if your fingers ever show a red line across them, they are in the wrong place. I'm a firm believer in the 6" rule for keeping my fingers away from the blade and I've practiced it for 60+ years without incident.

    Charley

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    919
    #3 with dust collection to guard. Some cuts wont allow the splitter or guard so I remove in those scenarios, but put right back afterwards. For me not using the guard would be like not buckling up when I got in the car.

    ~mark

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northwestern Connecticut
    Posts
    7,149
    At work I use a big slider with riving knife and over arm guard, it's a great set up, collects dust, blocks the occasional off cut that flys, easily moves out of the way as needed. I could never imagine having anything that visually obstructive in my little home basement shop. As for safety, that's still largely a function of the nut that holds the wood to the table. A riving knife won't keep you from shoving your hand into a spinning blade, neither will an over arm guard....only the operators brain can do that. It does prevent kick backs and flying dust however quite effectively. The two traditional Cabinet saws in the shop both have no guards, no splitters.

    At home I have a bies splitter and use it for every cut possible. No guard though, always a push block or and feather boards where appropriate, also have a power feed for repetitive stuff.

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