What is the best material for laser cutting decorative hands for battery operated clocks?
What is the best material for laser cutting decorative hands for battery operated clocks?
wood veneer
*twin 80 watt Shenhui 1280
*60 watt Laserpro Mercury -42ips
*(2) 30 watt Laserpro Venus-42 ips
*whole bunch of woodworking/metalworking machines
*128 screwdrivers (all needed)
*wonderful wife (1st) of 53 years who allows me to collect screwdrivers
Gary,
To add some detail to George's comment. The reason you are concerned is weight. Most battery operated clocks are very limited in the weight and length of the clock arms they can handle. Remember that a lighter, longer hand can be as hard on the mechanism as a shorter heavier hand. There are clock mechanisms made to handle larger and/or heavier hands, but you need to specify them at the time you order.
George.....am I wrong....or are you looking younger? Vitamins? Rhinoplasty? What's your secret???
900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.
Most of the time, the hands are included with the clock kit. I buy from Klockit and you have a choice of several style hands included in the price.
Jeff in northern Wisconsin (snow on the ground this morning)
SawmillCreek.org
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Hey Jeff!
It sounded like Gary was interested in cutting his own hands, which was why I mentioned the weight and length issue.
Dave
900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.
HI Gary,
I cut all my own clock hands from a variety of designs I have done. I have tried all sorts of materials and have finally settled on Baltic Birch Plywood at 1.55mm thick. Despite my best efforts there is blackening on the edges due to type of ply but not too formidable. I either paint or varnish all my hands to help minimise any warping. On large clocks I add a counter-balanced end. I will endeavour to attach an image or two. George Perzel gave me some early help too (thanks George).
Kind Regards, John
Colonial Classics co uk.jpg
The clock above has a 600mm diameter
George Landy.jpg
60w EFI 6090 & 100w Z4 Reci 6090 G Weike Lasers, 4 X 4 CNC Router
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[QUOTE=David Somers;2328087]Gary,
To add some detail to George's comment. The reason you are concerned is weight. Most battery operated clocks are very limited in the weight and length of the clock arms they can handle. Remember that a lighter, longer hand can be as hard on the mechanism as a shorter heavier hand. There are clock mechanisms made to handle larger and/or heavier hands, but you need to specify them at the time you order.
That’s correct Dave, High Torque clocks are the order of the day, the only potential downside is that they often do not have a second hand, which may or may not be a problem.
Kind Regards, John
60w EFI 6090 & 100w Z4 Reci 6090 G Weike Lasers, 4 X 4 CNC Router
CLTT using Oki C822dn & Adkins Press
Glass Sandblasting, Woodwork Shop, etc...
V Carve Pro v8 & Photo V Carve, Lasercut 5.3, Corel Draw 2017 on Windows 7 and iMac (via Parallels), etc
John,
Don't know if this would be a product of use to you, but something I use when turning green wood is a product called Cedarcide or Woodturners Choice. It is a cedar oil base with a carrier and a few other things. It soaks quickly into the cell walls of the wood and changes the moisture in the cells to a methylsilicate gell, stablizing the wood. I can take a green piece of wood, and depending on the species rough turn it to 3/4 of an inch thick, paint that stuff on it and then let it sit for 3 days to 2 weeks. Done. The piece is ready to be turned down, sanded and finished right then. Has worked beautifully. The Koa wood turners in Hawaii use it and it has drastically reduced their loss rate to cracking during the rough turning phase, and then the loss rate that occurred again when they ship pieces from Hawaii to someplace insanely dry like Arizona. I wonder if it might help you stabilize your ply without having to paint it to seal it. Assuming you wanted your hands to be natural wood of course.
Not sure if it is available in the UK or not. Might be worth asking for a sample if it is. A little goes a loooooong way.
Dave
900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.
Dave
Changed pic because old pic was with tux which doesn't fit anymore-damn thing seems to shrink more every year. New pic reflects a youthful change in attitude and demeanor as I finally accepted an old Iphone from my daughter which has an "app"-whatever- that allows me to turn on the lights and blow the horn, as well as start/stop/set inside temp/ etc on my wife's new Genesis. Also let's me find it in crowded malls-although I don't go to malls as there are too many people . I have been able to locate the car in our garage which is helpful I suppose.
Anyway, clock hands cut out of some woods will tend to warp. I have found that taking two pieces of the same 1/42" veneer and cross laminating them provide a substrate which is very stable. Thin ebony veneer is available which makes great hands, but use multiple passes and cut it fast.
I have a bunch of vector patterns for clock hands in a cdr which I am happy to share-send me an email as can't post due to file limitations.
Best Regards,
George
Laserarts
gmperzel@rochester.rr.com
*twin 80 watt Shenhui 1280
*60 watt Laserpro Mercury -42ips
*(2) 30 watt Laserpro Venus-42 ips
*whole bunch of woodworking/metalworking machines
*128 screwdrivers (all needed)
*wonderful wife (1st) of 53 years who allows me to collect screwdrivers
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