Workbench Finish?

[Daron Hankins]

I am brand new to Sawmill. I am garage woodworker, nothing professional, but not an average weekend warrior either. I just retired from the Army and with a lot of new free time on my hands now I am stepping up my game in the garage and starting to upgrade a lot of my equipment. The first thing I needed was a new solid workbench that can take some abuse for the future project I intend to start making. I am almost finished with a workbench and am looking for some finishing suggestions. I laminated 22 2x4's together and used 6x6's for the legs as well as connecting runners for the base of the legs on each side (all Douglas Fir). I morise and tenoned the top onto the legs, all the way through like a Roubo, so this beast is solid and heavy. I just installed a large front vise on it as well. The surface dimensions are roughly 7.5 feet by just shy of 32" wide. Any how, I saw an episode of Woodsmith where they build one and were going to finish it with Tung Oil and Spar Varnish. I was wondering if there is anything out there that I can finish it with that would help "repel" wood glue in case I drip any on it. I don't mind it taking a beating and not looking pretty after years of use, but, I plan to do glue ups and such things on it so I was wondering if there is anything that, if wood glue dripped onto it and dried, it would just lightly scrape or peel off? What is the purpose of the Tung Oil, just looks? I have used Boiled Linseed Oil before on poker chip boxes and humidors I made out of African Paduk and Maple, and it was just for looks, gave it a nice deep rich and warm look and color. So while I am at it, what is the difference between Boiled Linseed Oil and Tung Oil, mostly looks or physical properties as well? Thanks for any help, I am quickly learning to love this forum.

[Brian Holcombe]

No finish needed, IMO.

I use butcher paper under some of my messier glue ups.

[Daron Hankins]

I use wax paper a lot. I was just trying to keep from nuying a lot of it and wasting it.

[Daron Hankins]

Also, where can I buy some "Leg Vise" components? I was thinking of installing a leg vise on this as well but can only find shoulder, front, and tail vises. I have looked at Rockler, Lee Valley, Woodcraft, etc..

[Brian Holcombe]

You may want to move this thread, or re-write in the Neander forum, this type of bench is popular there. I personally use a modified Klaus Bench with Lie Nielsen hardware.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Benchcrafted sells the leg vise and wagon vise hardware. http://benchcrafted.com
For a glue resistant finish, use 1 pint raw linseed oil, 1 pint pure gum turpentine, and 1 pound of beeswax. Shave the beeswax with a grater into the turpentine. It will melt by itself, but I put it in the sun to speed it up. Add the raw linseed oil, stir, apply to your bench. It will resist glues- even epoxies, it looks nice, and it doesn't smell bad either.

[Daron Hankins]

Awesome, thanks for the info.

[Jim Becker]

I just apply a light coat of BLO on my bench every once in awhile to spruce it up and keep it slightly non-stick. There's no point to any kind of film finish on a workbench as it will get cut, chipped, scraped, scratched and otherwise beaten upon through normal use and a film finish will really, um...highlight...that.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Spilled red wine and cigarette ashes.

[John TenEyck]

Paraffin dissolved in mineral oil, same as used on cutting boards. Heat the MO in a double boiler, add some shaved paraffin, after it's dissolved slop it on the bench top. Use a hot air gun to keep it liquified until no more will absorb, then wipe off the rest. Glue won't stick and it's easy to refresh when needed.

John

[Brian Holcombe]

Spilled red wine and cigarette ashes.

Time tested!