Finally giving up on my Veritas mkIi power sharpener.

[Jim Matthews]

http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Switch-2X441


Wire as shown, inside the motor cover to find the run wiring schematic.

Use an extension cord the first time, so you can unplug the works if you cross connect any wiring.

Even I could manage this.

[Steve Friedman]

Paul,

I know 2-1/2 years with the Mk II is probably exhausting, but I will make one suggestion that helped me. I still don't use it, but can get a sharp and repeatable edge.

I had three problems with Mk II.

1. The projection setting jig only works if the blade is perfectly square. So, use a square and grind the edge to make sure it's square before even starting.

2. When I place the blade holding jig onto the projection setting jig, I always press the edge of the blade firmly into the corner of the protrusion setting jig. But, as soon as I start tightening the blade holding jig, I find that the edge of the blade started rising out of the corner, so that the blade projection is changing. So, what I need to do is tighten the blade holding jig slowly, while simultaneously pressing the edge of the blade into the corner, so that the edge of the blade is still in the corner when the blade holding jig is fully tightened.

3. Last part is to get your square and check to see if the blade is really square in the blade holding jig. I found that it often wasn't and I needed to give it a few taps to make sure it was square. If you do that, you need to go back to the projection setting jig to make sure the edge of the blade is still in the corner. Otherwise, loosen and adjust.

That process id one of the reasons I stopped using the Mk II. But, if the edge if square to the blade holding jig and the edge touches the inside corner of the projection setting jig, the system should work.

I assume you've already done this, but you should also check to see that the horizontal tool rest is parallel to platter. The booklet has instructions on how to do that. It's pretty easy.

Finally, you do need to let the abrasive do the work, so don't press too hard. The instruction say no to let the blade go past the edge of the platter, but I find that to it's impossible to get an even bevel without doing that. So, I move the blade to the left and right, going part the edge, just being careful to make sure the blade holding jig stays firmly in contact with the horizontal arm. Eventually, you get the feel for how to move the blade across the platter to get a straight bevel. Once you've done that with the 80 grit, the rest of it seems to move pretty quickly.

Hope some of that helps. If not, I tried.

One more thing, which you may already know. The crepe blocks work fine to clean the more abrasive stuff, but they don't work with the finer grits and really gum up the 9 micron sheet. Use a white eraser for the finer grit sheets. Works like a charm.

Steve

[paul cottingham]

Steve, I have tried almost all the things you mention. I even dedicated a small square to my sharpening area full time, cause the thing is so picky. I haven't tried the white eraser, what a great idea. I agree the tool can't be used without leaving the platter.
i think all the rigmarole with getting the blade square is part of my frustration. That plus the fact that my original setting jig was bent just enough to create a lot of grief.
i think part of my frustration lies in the fact that I get way better edges with the Viel, with way less grief, far more quickly. So I assume I am doing something wrong. Cause I think that shouldn't be true.

[paul cottingham]

http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Switch-2X441


Wire as shown, inside the motor cover to find the run wiring schematic.

Use an extension cord the first time, so you can unplug the works if you cross connect any wiring.

Even I could manage this.

jim, I will look at that when I'm back on my feet.

[Curt Putnam]

Not sure I should speak up here but on the off chance that I can spark something good, I shall. I have a Delta 1 x 42" belt grinder, a Worksharp 3000, a Delta 23-700 wet grinder and a generic HF grade 6" grinder. My hands are afflicted with essential tremors - makes even typing difficult and freehanding anything about impossible. I have come to the view that power is great for re/establishing a bevel. I flat grind so once a bevel is established I mostly don't need power again - at least for a long time. I use the belt grinder for knives, axes and such. With a leather strop belt, one can put a wonderful edge on knives in a matter of seconds. I haven't figured out how to jig it for chisels and such. The Worksharp does a fine job of creating bevels so I use that.

I use Stu's famous 3 stone Sigma kit for final honing with either a Veritas MK II or Kell honing jig. Takes a minute to get jigged up, especially with my shaky hands, but only another minute or two to go through the 3 stones for a wonderful edge. If your hands can handle using a honing jig I would like to respectfully suggest a similar approach.

You are on your own when it comes to turning tools - I don't have any.

[Jim Koepke]

Careful, my family loves Portland. I may just take you up on your offer.

That would be fine with me.

Just remember, my home is actually about 50 miles west of Portland out in the sticks.

jtk

[Frank Martin]

I have a Veritas MKII power sharpener and along with some diamond lapping films I use on glass for the backs, this is the entire set up I have for chisels and plane blades. Honestly, I never had any issues getting sharp edges with this setup. Reading all the complaints makes me think whether there is something wrong with your setup or perhaps there is desire for more perfection than functionally needed. I can't question the latter, but not sure of the first.

Hope you feel you got all the help you needed from the good folks at Lee Valley to make sure there is nothing wrong with your setup.

[Jim Koepke]

Hope you feel you got all the help you needed from the good folks at Lee Valley to make sure there is nothing wrong with your setup.

Doh! I meant to say this since Paul is in Victoria, BC.

There is an LV store in Victoria. Maybe give them a call and see if someone in the store is able to help you with the set up.

That would be quicker than a trip to Portland.

Another thought came to mind. I do not remove a blade from the holder until that blade is finished through all the grits. This was one of my reason to buy extra holders.

jtk

[paul cottingham]

Oh, I am on a first name basis with the good folks at LV here. None of them knows too much about the MKII.

[paul cottingham]

Paul,

I know 2-1/2 years with the Mk II is probably exhausting, but I will make one suggestion that helped me. I still don't use it, but can get a sharp and repeatable edge.

I had three problems with Mk II.

1. The projection setting jig only works if the blade is perfectly square. So, use a square and grind the edge to make sure it's square before even starting.

2. When I place the blade holding jig onto the projection setting jig, I always press the edge of the blade firmly into the corner of the protrusion setting jig. But, as soon as I start tightening the blade holding jig, I find that the edge of the blade started rising out of the corner, so that the blade projection is changing. So, what I need to do is tighten the blade holding jig slowly, while simultaneously pressing the edge of the blade into the corner, so that the edge of the blade is still in the corner when the blade holding jig is fully tightened.

3. Last part is to get your square and check to see if the blade is really square in the blade holding jig. I found that it often wasn't and I needed to give it a few taps to make sure it was square. If you do that, you need to go back to the projection setting jig to make sure the edge of the blade is still in the corner. Otherwise, loosen and adjust.

That process id one of the reasons I stopped using the Mk II. But, if the edge if square to the blade holding jig and the edge touches the inside corner of the projection setting jig, the system should work.

I assume you've already done this, but you should also check to see that the horizontal tool rest is parallel to platter. The booklet has instructions on how to do that. It's pretty easy.

Finally, you do need to let the abrasive do the work, so don't press too hard. The instruction say no to let the blade go past the edge of the platter, but I find that to it's impossible to get an even bevel without doing that. So, I move the blade to the left and right, going part the edge, just being careful to make sure the blade holding jig stays firmly in contact with the horizontal arm. Eventually, you get the feel for how to move the blade across the platter to get a straight bevel. Once you've done that with the 80 grit, the rest of it seems to move pretty quickly.

Hope some of that helps. If not, I tried.

One more thing, which you may already know. The crepe blocks work fine to clean the more abrasive stuff, but they don't work with the finer grits and really gum up the 9 micron sheet. Use a white eraser for the finer grit sheets. Works like a charm.

Steve

Ok, I just tried all the suggestions you made, Steve. I tried the first one, and I'm now pretty sure my edges are and were square. Your procedure pretty well matches mine.
Your second suggestion is also very close to my regular procedure. I followed very carefully, and got a square edge, which is pretty much how it always came out. Of course, the second blade I tried slipped, and ground unsquare. Argh.
I do use a square with my jig. In fact, I have a small engineers square stored next to my MKII for this very purpose. I'm still getting really unrepeatable results. Of course, in one of my retries, I peeled the abrasive off. Another problem that thankfully doesn't happen too much.
For crying out loud.

[Thomas W. Hanson]

I have finally had enough of fighting with my MKII power sharpener, and am moving on. One of the only veritas tools I own that I am truly disappointed in. So...I need a replacement power sharpening system, and am trying one of the Viel grinders. I have a motor, its rigged so the belt grinds down (direction) and have figured out a simple way to set bevels. I have a couple quick questions for anyone.

What grits of belt would you use? I have a trizac belt I really like, so I would likely stay with thos ones. They come in 240x, 400x, 800x, 1400x, and 2000x (nominally.)
Would you bother with a micro bevel? It would be simpler to set the rest to 25 degrees and carry on. Micro bevels would be simple, I would just prop the blade up a little with a shim like a popsicle stick. But still, are they really necessary if I'm not worried about the time savings they offer? I am thinking they aren't.
Would there be any benefit to a strop? I have the stropping belt for knives, would there be anything to be gained on edge tools?
Is there a simple way to reverse an AC motor? Would make stropping with the tool rest much easier.

I am committed to power sharpening. My hands are too screwed to hand sharpen (even though I get a real sense of joy from hand sharpening, and am reasonably good at it) and then do any woodworking on the same day. Sucks, but there it is. I can do quick touch ups on a strop or my 8000 gold stone, but that's about it. Oh, and I don't trust my hands enough any more to use a grinder.

Any suggestions are deeply appreciated!

I've been angry with this sharpener since I bought it. However, it is very accurate when it finally does get tight. The bonus is the 3 degree micro bevel wheel that works very well. I found a clear hose that jam fit over the adjusting knobs and cut them to length. Now I use vise grips to tighten it after I get it square with a small steel engineers square. I just did that today and will try to find a better device to tighten it.
I considered sending messages to Veritas because I think they may listen a little better than most, but this problem has been out there so long they have to know about it. The real problem is the threads are too coarse to tighten with just your fingers, as you know so very well. This is compounded by the nut being made of brass which may not take the pressure put on them with fine threads. If that is the case then they will probably strip out on mine with me using vise grips on them. If they do, I'll make some from steel with a through hole to put a nail through for tightening like I do my old Stanley #80 Scraper. Wing nuts would be ideal but I doubt I'll be able to find any the right thread size. I intend to look, but I haven't even ascertained the thread type yet.

[paul cottingham]

Use a hacksaw to saw a slot in the knob. you can then use a screwdriver to tighten.

[Thomas W. Hanson]

Use a hacksaw to saw a slot in the knob. you can then use a screwdriver to tighten.

Does this work for you? I'm not sure I could get them tight enough with a screwdriver. I have to crank pretty hard with the vise grips.

[Jim Koepke]

Does this work for you? I'm not sure I could get them tight enough with a screwdriver. I have to crank pretty hard with the vise grips.

Have you tried using a lock washer?

jtk

[Hilton Ralphs]

Are some people perhaps confusing the Veritas Mk.II Power Sharpening System with the Veritas Mk.II Honing Guide?

Two different animals and I think Lee Valley messed up by naming them as such. Similar to what Microsoft did with Office 365.