Cabinet Spray Finishes

[clarke edgar]

New to spraying, but willing to learn. I have a large compressor (3HP 60 gallon) and a new HVLP gun (Devilbiss Finishline FLG4) with multiple spray tips (1.3, 1.5 and 1.8). I am building some shop cabinets (aka kitchen cabinets) and plan to spray them clear inside and color on outside. I can spray them assembled or not and I do not have a spray booth. This will be done in my garage with doors open and fans blowing.

What would you recommend? Is pre cat lacquer with applicable sealer/primer a bad idea? I would practice multiple times, before I attempt the final product.

Thanks

[scott vroom]

New to spraying, but willing to learn. I have a large compressor (3HP 60 gallon) and a new HVLP gun (Devilbiss Finishline FLG4) with multiple spray tips (1.3, 1.5 and 1.8). I am building some shop cabinets (aka kitchen cabinets) and plan to spray them clear inside and color on outside. I can spray them assembled or not and I do not have a spray booth. This will be done in my garage with doors open and fans blowing.

What would you recommend? Is pre cat lacquer with applicable sealer/primer a bad idea? I would practice multiple times, before I attempt the final product.

Thanks

When you say "color on outside" are you referring to paint or stain/dye?

My go-to cabinet finish is General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly(urethane). It sprays very well and provides a durable and chemical resistant finish. I've also used GF Conversion Varnish for an even tougher, more scratch resistant finish...think bar tops. It's expensive, requires a catalyst additive, and doesn't spray as easily as the Enduro Poly. There are other brands with similar products.

I never spray cabinets before assembly, with one exception: I always spray with the cabinet back removed to avoid blowback and corner buildup. My cabinets are designed with a 1/4" back that easily slips into a dado post-finish.

General Finishes is discontinuing their pre-cat laquer due to slowing demand...their Enduro Poly outsells it by about 10-1.

[clarke edgar]

Scott,

I was referring to paint not stain/dye. I see the other thread on colored cabinets and will try the local Sherman Williams. Nobody else local. I will have to see how I can modify my cabinet build to accommodate spraying interior before back installation.

Thanks

[scott vroom]

Scott,

I was referring to paint not stain/dye. I see the other thread on colored cabinets and will try the local Sherman Williams. Nobody else local. I will have to see how I can modify my cabinet build to accommodate spraying interior before back installation.

Thanks

Clarke, if you can't change your back panel design then you can always turn down the flow on your HVLP to a fine mist and spray the inside corners with back in place. Not ideal but definitely workable.

I'm sure the SW acrylic will work well. Are these cabs for the shop or for the kitchen? If the kitchen, I recommend top coating with a harder clear finish.

[clarke edgar]

Shop not kitchen. I spoke with Sherman Williams Finishes dealer who services the whole state and decided to go with the SW waterborne acrylic (Kem Aqua Plus white) tinted to my color. The local SW paint guy was not familiar with the product.

Thanks

[scott vroom]

Shop not kitchen. I spoke with Sherman Williams Finishes dealer who services the whole state and decided to go with the SW waterborne acrylic (Kem Aqua Plus white) tinted to my color. The local SW paint guy was not familiar with the product.

Thanks

Clarke, looks like a good choice for your project....let us know how it goes.

[Jim Becker]

Good choice on the waterborne finish...solvent-based products really need a proper spray booth to apply safely and most "hobbyists" do not have that kind of arrangement available. Today's waterborne finishes are pretty excellent, too, unlike in the "early days".

[Justin Jump]

Scott - do you do any sort of "sealer" coat under the General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly(urethane)? I've been using Kem Aqua Plus that states it is self sealing, but hard to come by, even at my local SW....GF Enduro is available on Amazon, much more convenient....

THX

[Howard Acheson]

Being new to spraying, I suggest you purchase Andy Charron's Spray Finishing book. It will tell you how to set up and adjust your compressor and gun. It will also tell you how to adjust your gun depending on the finish you are spraying and the type of finish you want to create.

He also will tell you how to learn and practice the techniques you need to develop to spray effectively.

There is a lot more to spray finishing than just filling the gun and pulling the trigger. Don't spray anything real until you are comfortable with your skill.

[John TenEyck]

Scott - do you do any sort of "sealer" coat under the General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly(urethane)? I've been using Kem Aqua Plus that states it is self sealing, but hard to come by, even at my local SW....GF Enduro is available on Amazon, much more convenient....

THX

You can use SealCoat shellac under most anything, including Enduro Clear Poly. GF, however, recommends their Enduro Sanding Sealer.

John

[scott vroom]

Scott - do you do any sort of "sealer" coat under the General Finishes Enduro Clear Poly(urethane)? I've been using Kem Aqua Plus that states it is self sealing, but hard to come by, even at my local SW....GF Enduro is available on Amazon, much more convenient....

THX

Justin, GF Enduro Clear Poly is also self sealing. Having said that, I typically apply a solvent base sealer such as GF Arm-R-Sealer to raise the grain and to give the natural wood a warm, amber tone.

[John TenEyck]

Scott, no adhesion problems with Enduro Clear Poly over Arm-R-Seal? That's not a combination I would have considered.

John

[scott vroom]

Scott, no adhesion problems with Enduro Clear Poly over Arm-R-Seal? That's not a combination I would have considered.

John

John, I had the same concern when I first started out; I called GF tech support who said no problem top coating Arm-R-Seal as long as you allow 24-48 hours dry time before applying the Enduro. Years later no issues with finishes applied this way.

[Jim Becker]

One of the only reasons to use a dedicated "sealer" is when a barrier coat is necessary to insure adhesion or to insure there isn't a "clash" between two different products, such as oil under a waterborne finish or trying to get polyurethane to actually stick to something else. Quite often, when a manufacturer recommends "their" sealer under a finish it's more of a product promotion. The first coat of most finishes does the "sealing" itself. Yes, there are exceptions, but...

[John TenEyck]

Thanks Scott - good to know.

John