New Shop Layout

[Jesse Busenitz]

I'm possibly moving my shop into a new building... It originally was built as horse shed and is 80x40, already insulated, has 11' ceiling but dirt floor. Anyway I'm thinking of cementing 50' and then if/when I need to, finish out the rest. I'd like to run the duct work under floor/ wood floor, but I'm not sure how long I'll be able to be here so I don't want to pour a bunch of work into it plus it has a roomy attic which will make instillation of DC easy. Anyway I'm open to all suggestions and comments on my layout as I would like to at least run electrical in the floor. The office is already there, and I'd have to put up a wall on the left side of the shop so that is moveable the door to the right is accessible, the one on the bottom goes to an eve/ corrals and isn't that accessible by vehicle, and there is a big door on the far left side of the building. I'm planning on housing my 3hp Oneida and air compressor out under that eve. Oh and btw I don't own all Grizzly tools

Click here to view my plan.

[Jim Andrew]

Looks like you will have a nice shop space. I like having my electrical and ducting overhead, but that is me. I can re arrange the shop and just move wiring in the attic, and move the duct to work with it. Seems like it takes a while to get everything the way you like it.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Looks like you will have a nice shop space. I like having my electrical and ducting overhead, but that is me. I can re arrange the shop and just move wiring in the attic, and move the duct to work with it. Seems like it takes a while to get everything the way you like it.

Yeah I have most of my tools on mobile bases, and I'll probably be moving them more than once.. ;-)

[Lee Schierer]

One problem with duct work under a concrete slab is that it tends to develop condensation and possibly mold because the ground is cooler than the air. It also is set in concrete, so changes or alterations are really hard to do and costly.

[Kent Cartwright]

Do you have plans for a finishing area? Something that allows you to apply a finish and then go back to work in the shop without worrying about dust messing up the finish?

Edit: Never mind. The Grizzly site was slow loading. I see that you have this covered.

You might consider moving your plywood storage so it is up against the finish area and next to the miter saw station. That gives you better access to your lumber storage straight from the doors and straight to your miter saw.

Kent

[Jesse Busenitz]

It's now the end of May and I finally got caught up on all my work! So now I'm starting the process of moving shop..... Right now we store a bunch of farm equipment in there and other misc. so I'm going to have to shuffle most of it into another shed, and some of it may just have to see a little more sunshine I guess. Then hopefully I can began doing the ground prep for cement. There's one hydrant inside that was used to run a mister for the horses, so I have a water supply but I'm going to have to find a way to plumb it in better as it's in a inconvenient place. I'm also considering putting in a bathroom sometime down the road so I'm trying to figure out what exactly needs done there. I'm thinking of putting in a septic tank, as that seems the simplest route. I also am trying to figure out my electrical as well. I have 100 amp service which should be enough for a one man shop, so it should just be a matter of pulling wire to the right spot. I decided to go the full 40x80 as I'm guessing it will fill up quicker than I think.... I've fought limited room enough. It's hard to know where to start, but it's exciting to get this big of upgrade from my 22x22 shop.(actually that plus I was borrowing some extra room from the rest of the machine shop, but you soon learn that grease/oil don't mix with woodworking) I'll post some pics here soon, as I'm working on it.

[Steve Kinnaird]

Not sure if still plan to run the dust collector tube in the concrete. But, what do you do if you have a blockage in the line?

[Jesse Busenitz]

Today was the first day on the project. Started working on the farm shed and got two semi loads of gravel hauled and mostly leveled, and also managed to figure out an electrical problem in the horse barn(which will be the new shop), and hopefully I'll be able to move all the equipment out of the horse barn tomorrow.
Steve, right now I'm planning on forming 3 trenches that will form a "H" with the long runs being oriented the 40' with some sort of cover so I can unplug the DC, add electrical/air etc as needed. We'll see how it works and if I don't like it I can always pour it full of concrete later.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Here's what I'm working with.... Doing the ground prep for pouring cement.

For those of you who put a utility trench(air, electrical, DC etc.). How big did you make it and did you incorporate a footer on the edge of the pad or pour it as one piece with cement under the trench? Also for electrical did you run conduit/floor outlet in the cement from your trench out to wherever you planned on needing it? I've got my machine layout pretty much planned, but I'm sure it will change so I'll probably end up running cords to the nearest outlet. Any suggestions from those of you who have done this before would be greatly appreciated!

[Jesse Busenitz]

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Update: Things are moving slow but they are moving! I just finished pouring the concrete, so that's a big item crossed off the list. Next will be electrical, air lines, and DC. But I was thinking that while my shop is still half way uncluttered yet, I should be thinking about putting epoxy on the floor. I've read a few threads on this and it sounds like this is the way to go for a concrete floor, but it also sounds like it's pricey too (think 3200 sq feet...) But if I'm going to do it at all now is the time not? I have a friend who spoke highly of Sherwin Williams epoxy, but he was using it in an auto shop which probably gets a lot more wear and tear than a woodshop. Are there any other brands out there that you really like?

[Jesse Busenitz]

So today was the big day..... I moved all my machines from my old shop into my new photo 2.jpgphoto 1.jpgphoto 3.jpgphoto 4.jpgphoto 5.jpg

I ended up pouring the 40x80 in 4 pads with my "channel" being a H shape in the middle of the building. I also brought in 200 amp service as the current was 100 and was in a poor location. I have a few 220 outlets to wire hard as i want to try my machine layout for a bit before I anchor it all down, I also need to wire in my rotary phase convertor as well. I poured the concrete myself( and a little help from friends and family:-) and it turned out alright but there is definitely a knack to doing finish work! I then went with Sherwin Williams Tile Clad epoxy on the floor with Shark Grip mixed in on the second coat, and am pleased thus far. Lighting will be upgraded this winter. DC will be my old 2hp Grizzly until I can move my Oneida cyclone over. Over all the move went smooth, but there were a couple hair raising moments! It all seemed so small on paper but I think I'm going to have plenty of elbow room! I have a customer who wants a table done by the 18th of Sept so hopefully I can get everything semi organized and then get to work.

[David Hawxhurst]

i used and like legacy industrial floor epoxy. epoxy for 3200 sq ft would be pretty pricey, but then again it been done. they have a sealer, think something like you see at the borg stores which would be cheaper.

[William C Rogers]

I had a sealer put down right when the concrete was poured. Seem to be holding up well. I would do something either epoxy ( which seem to be preferred) or at least a sealer as concrete is somewhat porous. You are going to have a super shop when done. I know first hand how difficult it is to make everything come together. Took me a year as things get in the way.

[Dean Van Dolsen]

It's coming along nicely.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Slowly but surely.... One of these days I'm going be able to do some actual woodworking Just got my DC unit in place and the bulk of my duct work in place. Today I was working on leveling two TS side by side and mounting my 11' Beismeyer rails.