End table build design feedback

[Christopher Charles]

Hello all,

I've been working the last couple of weeks on a simple end table design. My family room currently lacks a place to put a beverage and plate while relaxing with the family. Our family room is small and doesn't have much room, so my aim is a design that is just big enough for a plate and beer, small enough to move around and not collect clutter. I'm building the first one out of elm (leftovers from the base of my workbench) and will likely build two to three more out of walnut should the design prove pleasing. My design tastes tend toward a blend of modern and asian simple minimalist lines and curves.

Here's the initial concept:

IMG_1609.jpgIMG_1610.jpg

Unfortunately I don't have hollows and rounds but did have a friend with a cove bit for a router, so I used that for the upper coves

IMG_1607.jpg

And here's the current status

IMG_1623.jpg
IMG_1625.jpg

The remaining tasks are to taper the legs and arch the rails. Here's a mock up:

IMG_1620.jpg

Given the excellent new thread on modern design, I'd welcome feedback on the overall design concept and details of the mock up, especially the leg taper and arch.

And it just got really cold so I probably won't make it back out to the shop for a couple days so have a bit to ponder this one....

Thanks,
Chris C.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I love the cove in the leg. The top appears to be floating- nice design element. Glue it up, get some finish on it, and have that beer!

[Brian Hale]

To my eye, the top looks a bit heavy, perhaps a chamfer on the bottom would help. The curved aprons are very pleasing and make the overall design lighter which is a good match with the tapered legs. A small beading profile might look nice on them. The cove and floating top make the table visually appealing without being busy, nice touch there!

Overall very good looking table!

Brian

[Prashun Patel]

I like the design. Making a note about the cove. Good trick. Personally my eye wants the apron a little thinner, at least at the apex of the curve.

however, i also fancy knowing when to call it done and not trying to get too cute. If it looks good to your eye and blends with the style of your room, then go for it.

[Pat Barry]

I like it. The only thing I question a bit is if it would llook better with a bit of tabletop overhang (maybe 1 inch, all around).

[Sean Hughto]

I think the drawing looks good, but that the build up does not match it in terms of the proportions and feel. In short, everything would benefit from being a little bit lighter and more graceful. The drawing has a slimmer vibe I like, while the build up feels chunky. I'd thin the top and take some meat from the legs.

[Brian Holcombe]

IMO, I would like to see it without the arch in the skirt, but instead with a thinner skirt.

If you scale your drawings, it will help you fine tune proportion prior to building. I like to sketch using grid paper so that I can go through many drawings quickly.

I sketch out stuff in napkins and sticky notes and junk like that when they are in my head and I think they are sexy as hell, then I sketch them in real proportion and hate them. Not to say that's the case here, since I think your table is great looking, but just some brain droppings for the discussion.

[Chris Hachet]

I would lighten or chamfer the edge of the top and call it done.

[Harold Burrell]

I would lighten or chamfer the edge of the top and call it done.

Yeah, me too. I like it!

[Christopher Charles]

Thanks all for confirming what I was suspecting. I'm going to have to let this one sit for a bit, but when I come back to it, I'll take a look at trimming and slimming a bit. The top currently has a chamfer on the underside which is difficult to see in the photo, but the top could be thinned some. I also agree the rails need to be narrowed. Brian and Prashun, thinner rails are in the plan and I'll play around with straight vs. arched (though may be constrained for this incarnation since the M&Ts are already done).

Cheers,
C

[Derek Cohen]

I would like to see this table with a dark Walnut top, with a strong bevel under the top (about half the thickness).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

My question is how to you plan on attaching the top?

jtk

[Darren Brewster]

I like it. The only thing I question a bit is if it would llook better with a bit of tabletop overhang (maybe 1 inch, all around).

I thought this too when I saw the picture. It must feel great going from drawing to executed piece. Great job Christopher.

[Pete Moe]

Nice! I, too, like the cove treatment. I am with Pat that a little bit of overhang would help with balancing the top and the base, and with Sean about getting a little more finesse in the overall shape. What I like about the top is the contrast between the straight edges and shadows and the opposing curves. I would maybe carry that concept through to the legs with a straight outer leg and a curved taper on the inner portion. That would show a definitive design choice, carrying the curve of the apron down through the leg.

I do this kind rethink with my work all the time. It's good to step back and get another perspective. Good onya, Mate.

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Derek, Darren and Pete,

Yes, I thought about an overhang as well and played around with having the overhang extend such that the underside of the chamfer became even with the leg corners:

IMG_1613.jpgIMG_1616.jpg

(the "top" here is two pieces of scrap, hence the line and is too thick, especially above the chamfer)

However, with an overhang I found that the cove started to become lost under the top, with an awkward loss of the "floating top" effect. More importantly, the remaining elm I had for the top came in a bit shy and in fact I had to shorten the rails to get the top and legs to match in size (and i've just outted myself...).

My son came out to the shop and saw the table and asked "Hey! is that going to go in the spot [next to where I sit on the couch]?". And thus was born an opportunity for future design refinement...

Cheers,
Chris C.