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Thread: Source of Leather for strop

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    I've been pretty happy with my MDF and green compound strop. I hate the looks and feel of it,but it does a razor sharp job without rounding the edge at all.

    I don't usually bother getting kitchen knives so sharp,but just yesterday I got my pocket knife,and the LV 6" Japanese kitchen knife sharp enough to shave with. That Japanese knife will really take a super keen edge.

    Since my wife was a book binder(I taught her and the shop how to sharpen their tools on request),she can use it without being afraid of it,or cutting herself.

    Normally I just grind kitchen knives sharp enough for food on my 3000 grit disc on my horizontal/vertical diamond grinder at 200 rpm. I start with the 260 grit disc. The knives get whacked on the wooden cutting board,so getting them excessively sharp doesn't last a long time. But,I was up for a bit of fun. Seeing how sharp that laminated Japanese blade will get is a treat. The hard steel in it is only about 1/100" thick,or so.
    I was watching videos on how Japanese chef's cut with their knives and one of the reasons for pulling the knife through rather than chopping and pushing sideways was for that exact reason, they can keep their knives very sharp for long periods of time. I do the same now and even my German knife (haven't settled on a Japanese knife yet) will stay sharp until my wife starts using them.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 11-15-2014 at 10:13 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #17
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    Thanks for the lead on the horse butt source Roger.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    I was watching videos on how Japanese chef's cut with their knives and one of the reasons for pulling the knife through rather than chopping and pushing sideways was for that exact reason, they can keep their knives very sharp for long periods of time. I do the same now and even my German knife (haven't settled on a Japanese knife yet) will stay sharp until my wife starts using them.
    Not that you need to rush out and buy a knife, but if you get a decent shaped japanese knife in something pedestrian (like blue #2 or VG-10) and the spec hardness is over 60, you'll be surprised how much better they hold a fruit and vegetable type edge, and how much keener they seem (partly because they have such a narrow profile to begin with.

    Run of the mill quickie made knives can be had for about the same price as a german knife. I think I spent $75 on the knife I use, and I cast off my german knife to the wife because she ...well, she can make anything dull. I keep two japanese knives - one in VG 10 that looks like a western knife that stays in the knife block (because I know it will get used sometime by someone other than me and be put away wet), and a second one that I keep on the top shelf of a cabinet - a blue steel santoku. I keep the first one very sharp, but the second one is ground gradual enough and is kept so sharp that nobody else will use it. that's intentional. It's the same indulgent principle to me as straight razor shaving - you take something that you have to do and you turn it into entertainment instead, and all of the sudden, it's fun to do.

  4. #19
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    Just got my 'horse butt' from Sheridan Leather: http://www.sheridanleather.com/Horse_Strips_p/3104.htm

    Nice people, good service, no problems apart from the usual variable trans-Atlantic mailing times.

    Horse butt turns out to be quite a lot different to the sort of veg tanned cowgide I was offered locally - very much harder (i ordered the hard grade), nice and smooth on the smooth side, but about half the thickness (good i imagine). The piece is a bit smaller than I expected. Still very good value, but the quoted dimensions are the longest of a fairly irregular piece in the traditional shape rather than the sides of a rectangle.

    Looks like a very good bet to produce a hard but smooth stropping surface that's not going to mess up edge geometry.

    Next up is to make some strops and try it out...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Camden, SC
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    I gravitated to the MDF from leather because of the issue of rounding over. I have found that my carving tools can be stropped more times before needing a fine stone if I use the MDF. I don't see as great a difference with plane irons.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by ian maybury View Post
    Just got my 'horse butt' from Sheridan Leather: http://www.sheridanleather.com/Horse_Strips_p/3104.htm

    Nice people, good service, no problems apart from the usual variable trans-Atlantic mailing times.

    Horse butt turns out to be quite a lot different to the sort of veg tanned cowgide I was offered locally - very much harder (i ordered the hard grade), nice and smooth on the smooth side, but about half the thickness (good i imagine). The piece is a bit smaller than I expected. Still very good value, but the quoted dimensions are the longest of a fairly irregular piece in the traditional shape rather than the sides of a rectangle.

    Looks like a very good bet to produce a hard but smooth stropping surface that's not going to mess up edge geometry.

    Next up is to make some strops and try it out...
    Thinner for horse butt is right. I got some 8/9 ounce horse butt and it's half the thickness of the same weight cowhide and many times harder. When you glue it to wood, it is hard enough that it is percussive. If it gets contaminated, you can sand it. It's nice stuff and very durable.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    West Granby CT
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    777
    I found a local company that makes saddles. They gave me a bunch of super thick odd sized scrap for free. Enough for a lifetime.

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