I've one hanging on a peg where it will stay to remind me that sometimes new isn't better. The TFWW bow saw works better and the Olson coping saw works better for a heck of a lot less money.
Member
I've one hanging on a peg where it will stay to remind me that sometimes new isn't better. The TFWW bow saw works better and the Olson coping saw works better for a heck of a lot less money.
[OP]
Member
I know what a bow saw is but, what TFWW stands for?
Member
Tools for working wood. They make the bowsaw kit I made mine from. Great piece of kit indeed. $50 for the kit, $160 for the saw. Or so. I'm a terrible woodworker and I made a very functional saw using their kit.
Paul
Contributor
I like mine. Some times I use it for dovetails, sometimes I chop. Last monday I used it to cut straight slots in a 1.25"x1" block of brass. For that, it was much better than a standard fret saw.
As to your tensioning problem, I haven't experienced except with blades that are too long. Watching other set it up though, I see them not bottoming out the tension assembly when fastening in the blade.
Shawn
"no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."
"I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"
Contributor
Originally Posted by Tony Zaffuto
I bought one of those from T4WW and on the first time cutting with it the handle popped off. It wasn't even glued on. I ended up finishing the cut with my forefinger looped over the bottom part of the frame.
"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Member
I have used a coping saw for dovetails for forty years. I use the Eclipse coping saw, which I recommend. It is now available from Highland also. I have several fret saws; I use them for fretwork.
Contributor
I use a small wooden turning saw I made to use regular coping saw blades. It's a little bulkier than a coping saw, but not any heavier and I can tension it up more.
Contributor
Interesting replies .... the OP asks for help with his KC fretsaw ... and everyone tells him what they prefer to use instead.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Member
Actually, Derek, I read the op to say he was unhappy with the saw and was going to return it. Without the saw, he will likely require and alternative method for dealing with the waste.
~ Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of the men of old; seek what they sought.
Contributor
True, Sean, but he spent a lot of time describing what did not work, and it was obvious (to me) that he was frustrated about this. I'm predisposed to find a solution - blame the years of graduate school
Regards from Perth
Derek
Member
I would talk to customer service at Knew Concepts before I returned it to Highland. Give them a chance to answer your questions, they should be able to help. I don't use s fret saw, I use a dovetail saw and chisel. That being said, I would still start with the manufacturer. I have a fret saw, I choose to do the job a different way, that works for me.
Guest
That's because some of us got an iteration of the fretsaws and either returned or sold them and have an idea on what we'd rather use.
The fretsaw itself, being used for dovetails, is a top example of boutique woodworking - an expensive solution to a problem that doesn't exist with even the most basic level of skill and repetition.
I agree with warren's sentiment, when I was using mine I felt like it would be a really nice saw to have and use if I was actually doing fretwork or jewelry work.
Side comment - it's not out of bounds for the people who gravitate toward coping saw blades to touch them up quickly with a file after getting them out of package. Eventually they break, but not nearly as often as a fretsaw blade, and they cut like crazy when they've been touched up with a file (which only takes about two minutes).
Contributor
I usually just chop out the waste, but on a recent project I decided to cut the waste out with a bowsaw and a turbo cut blade. Worked nicely for big stuff, such as big 3" spaces between tenons in 6/4 white oak.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Member
My solution was to sell it... I just did not like it (I tried for a long time) and went back to using the simple featherweight frame from Lee Valley. That said, my buddy LOVES his KC saw. Who's to say what we like and don't like? I do agree with your train of thought though. Try and figure out what is causing the things you don't like and see if it is correctable. If you find it isn't, move on to a different method or tool. Sometimes simple and cheap is the way to go over higher priced, higher tech options. Sometimes it is the other way around...True, Sean, but he spent a lot of time describing what did not work, and it was obvious (to me) that he was frustrated about this. I'm predisposed to find a solution - blame the years of graduate school
Regards from Perth
Derek
Member
Yeah, my Olson coping saw, the handle pops off on occasion- usually if I rap the handle against the bench every now and then, it's not an issue; also not as much a problem if it's cutting on the push stroke. I keep meaning to pin it…
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