Thanks. I really wanted a gap. But it was nearly impossible to get a large enough glue line and a gap that was symmetrical. Anyway, had this been any wider I wouldn't have been able to use my 48" pipe clamps.
[OP]
Moderator
Thanks. I really wanted a gap. But it was nearly impossible to get a large enough glue line and a gap that was symmetrical. Anyway, had this been any wider I wouldn't have been able to use my 48" pipe clamps.
Contributor
Cool, I would still like to see the result. As much as I enjoy wooden bases I do also like the cast bronze bases I've seen.Originally Posted by Prashun Patel
Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 11-20-2014 at 9:07 AM.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Contributor
No. You did not really say that, did you?
@ $10 - $12 per 10' length, a pair of 60" clamps is only $5 - $6 each, including free cutting and threading, at the BORG.
Plus - I don't understand how you got 48" clamps? Mine are 30", 40", and 60". I have a few 96" ones, but that is only because I could not fit 10' lengths in my stand-up clamp racks. Maybe you cut the pipe to 3' - 3' - 4' ?? In which case, you coulda also had 4' + 6'.
Prashun - No body ever had too many clamps - you must know that, right? Go buy a few lengths of pipe, brudda. They'll never take the training wheels off the Mod Bike if you keep this up!!
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
[OP]
Moderator
Ok Kent, you have a point. But near me, the 60" pipes are between $12 and $15/pc. So, if I need 6-10 of them, it can add up. I know, keep it in perspective.
Anyway, I placed 10mm Dominos every foot for alignment, and used T88 Epoxy (System Three) for assembly. It has a 45 minute open time, so what I spent in mixing in spreading effort, I saved in sweat by not having to race the clock.
I had to make a bunch of cauls (thanks Jamie Buxton) from scrap 2x4's. I'm a fan of longer, more pressure-distributing clamping cauls, but this shape precluded that. These cauls were just to prevent the edges from damage.
On a side note, I had some tear out from the router bit I used to do the initial surfacing. I used a cheap bit, and I suspect my cut depth in places was too much. My Veritas BU Smoother made short work of clean up. There are one or two switch-grain areas on this, and for once I really appreciate the things this plane can do with 40 degree bevel. On this wood I was able to come from almost any direction with a fairly aggressive depth of cut, and was still successful.
I still sand my work, but with each project, I have been able to start at a higher grit. On this, I think I can start at 180 or 220. I am finding that if the wood cooperates (as these wonderful pieces have) it's actually easier to use planes.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 11-21-2014 at 7:08 PM.
Contributor
I like the way the cathedral grain worked out looks good!
[OP]
Moderator
i used a cabinet scraper to level the epoxy. I admit to using 220 and 400 grit sandpaper...
waterlox and blo.
Contributor
Gorgeous!!
Contributor
Fantastic work! Very nice grain in that slab!
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
It is a little known fact that Festool track saws are actually hand tools. It has a handle. You push it through the wood with the one handle! The track is just a big straight edge that the saw happens to fit on.
Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 11-24-2014 at 7:26 AM.
Contributor
The finished top looks terrific. Love the grain and the sapwood center detail.
My question: how did you shoot the picture of the top with all the clamps. There is almost no parallax in this shot. Do you have a Skycam?
[OP]
Moderator
My plant has a mezzanine that overlooks the floor space I'm working on. "Parallax". Nicely played!
Contributor
Looks fantastic, I love the bit of remaining sapwood. Looking forward to seeing it on the base. and that we all had a plant with a mezzanine!
"You can observe a lot just by watching."
--Yogi Berra
[OP]
Moderator
Table is finished. I know the base isn't for everyone. It is for my neighbor; she selected it. I'm trying to convince myself it looks good. Anyway. Done. Thanks for your help guys. learned a lot.
She wants it polished to a chrome-ish finish. I tried a little with my angle grinder. Not that easy. I'm going to an autobody shop next week to see if they can take the shine north.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 11-26-2014 at 11:01 AM.
Member
Your top looks fantastic. I don't mind the look of the base, but I question the safety and comfort of users' feet with those sharp protruding corners on the ends at floor level.
~ Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of the men of old; seek what they sought.
Contributor
Awesome!
Polishing stainless is no small chore, it's fairly involved. BDDW does a similar base in cast bronze. My only issue with these style of bases is that there are no supporting battens.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
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