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Thread: Insulating an existing building

  1. #16
    For a ceiling with a clear span of 16', doug fir 2x8 would be a minimum if you want storage above, remember you are also hanging ceiling material and insulation from these joists, 2x6 unsupported won't do. 2x10's would be a solid choice and might even get you 40psf live load. If you put at least a 1/2 rigid continuous under your ceiling material and a min. of R30 above, you'll be quite comfortable.
    "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." - Proust

  2. #17
    The easy way to build your ceiling would be to nail your joists on the side of your studs, and if the studs are at 24" centers, you would probably need 2 x 12's on 24" centers. You could add a piece of 2x6 under the joists to aid in supporting them.

  3. #18
    If I can get away with 2X8's then I should have a little over 4 ft in height in the upper storage area. I suppose if I insulate between the 2x8's and seal it up then I could leave the building completely unfinished above the "new" ceiling? If I could leave it open it would be easier to get around up there as could stand completely up between the rafters.

    Really appreciate the advice fellas.

  4. #19
    If your framing is 24"OC then 2x10 would be a minimum. No need to finish anything up in the attic space unless you want to. One way of installing the ceiling joists is to secure a ledger at your cieling height on one side, on the outer face of the studs, 2x6 would be sufficient, snap a level caulk line on the opposite wall, then resting one end on the ledger lift the joist into place pushing back towards the other wall so it doesn't slide off. Take a 1/2" off the total length and you may need to slide them up catty-corner in the stud bay. Nail them at your your line and install another ledger on that wall when done.

    At 24"OC you might want to strap the ceiling 16"OC for securing your finish material.
    "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." - Proust

  5. #20
    The way I would put up the boards, is to nail a 2x4 up temporary on one side at the under line of your new ceiling. Then put one end of your ceiling board on top of the 2x4. Then put the other end of your board in the stud space and lift it up until it is on the line on the other side, and nail it to the stud. Assuming you have already cut the boards to length. Measure at the point you are putting the ceiling, if the studs are crowned out, your building could be 1/2" or more wider than 16'. Often lumber is 1/2" longer than the nominal length. After you nail the joist to the studs on both ends, using 4 or 5 16d nails, nail a scrap of stud material 2 or 3' long to the stud under the joist.

  6. #21
    Well.. I finally got out there and re-measured everything (I was going off of memory when I measured it all a year ago when I moved in)... turns out the ceiling ht is actually 12.5 ft. Everything else is the same. Since that's not enough room to have a 9-10ft high workshop ceiling AND a storage loft I think I'm just going to enclose the whole thing. Then, if I need some storage later (if... lol), I can build a small loft inside the shop that would be about 4ft off one end and go from side to side (so about 4X15ft) and still use the area under it for something like a joinery bench where I wouldn't be working with large pcs.....or for storage of stuff I use a lot like hand power tools, etc...

    If I'm reading them right both of your methods seems pretty similar and seem like the easiest way to frame it up... easy enough where I could probably manage by myself if I needed to. Thanks!

  7. #22
    What kind of foam board do I need to look for that will be waterproof?

  8. #23
    Closed cell foam. Extruded polystyrene, XPS.
    "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." - Proust

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by James Conrad View Post
    Closed cell foam. Extruded polystyrene, XPS.
    Ok cool.... thanks

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