Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 41 of 41

Thread: How many people finish right off the hand plane?

  1. #31
    right now I'm finishing a door to match existing. I surfaced the boards for the jambs by planing. I made some extra for stain samples. the stain I'm using is watco danish oil, blended for color matching. the wood is alder. I found a clear difference between a surface sanded to 220 and a surface planed- the sanded surface accepted more stain. I didn't try sanding any higher than that, and the planed surface has a smoother and brighter surface than the sanded surface, but the difference is clear. for this project I'll use a sanded surface, as that is what better matches the existing once stained.

  2. #32
    I'm in the hate-sanding crowd, but still find myself planing and then scraping to correct tearout, then sanding for uniformity. I hope to be able to improve my planing results to reduce scraping and eliminate sanding, but that will require a higher angle plane & cambered blade that I haven't yet purchased.


    One thing I've noticed on figured wood is that scraped surfaces reflect light differently than planed surfaces, even if the entire surface was then sanded for uniformity. I suspect the scraper might be burnishing the surface, but am not sure what the cause really is?


    I wonder if the surface produced by a high angle plane is any different than the surface produced by a standard angle plane? To me the surface produced by a standard angle plane really is special, but I'm not sure how much of that differential remains after the finish is applied?

  3. #33
    The surface off of a high angle vs. common pitch plane depends on the wood. On softwoods and softer hardwoods, there's a fairly substantial difference, but you'd have to have two pieces beside each other to really tell any difference, I guess.

    On stuff like oak and harder, the difference is less. I don't see much difference on hard maple.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    I wonder if the surface produced by a high angle plane is any different than the surface produced by a standard angle plane? To me the surface produced by a standard angle plane really is special, but I'm not sure how much of that differential remains after the finish is applied?
    Half the Oak board below was planed with a LA Jointer and 52 degree cutting angle, and the other half with a Custom BD Jointer and 40 degree frog with close set chip breaker.



    To my eyes, the low angle BD-produced surface just shaded the high angle BU-produced surface.

    However, a single coat of oil (similar to Danish Oil) was applied. The result was given to both my wife and my 21-year old son. Neither could say which was better. They looked identical.

    The finish removes any differences. As Dave points out, the harder the wood, the less likely the difference even without a finish.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 11-21-2014 at 12:22 PM.

  5. #35
    This is a cruel teaser, Derek. When will the review on the custom jointer be available?

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    1,029
    That's about what I'd expect with a clear finish. Sanding to 220 vs 320 vs 400 is similar. Once the finish is applied, they all look the same.

    However, if the wood is to be stained or dyed, it may make a noticeable difference. The stain is going to absorb differently in these surfaces. I don't stain often but it's something to be aware of.

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    The result was given to both my wife and my 21-year old son. Neither could say which was better. They looked identical.

    The finish removes any differences. As Dave points out, the harder the wood, the less likely the difference even without a finish.
    -- Dan Rode

    "We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle

  7. #37
    If you want the best surface, get yourself a double iron plane and learn to use it. Use a bed angle in the 40 to 45 range.

    I am reminded of a test a man did in Vermont about 35 years ago. He took grade A maple syrup, grade C maple syrup, and flavored corn syrup (something like Log Cabin), to his local country store and had people do taste tests. The corn syrup won out and the grade A (the most expensive) was last. But of those few people who could identify all three syrups by taste, every one chose grade A as the best.
    Last edited by Warren Mickley; 11-21-2014 at 11:50 AM.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,492
    Heh ... Prashun ... there's more ...





    BU vs BD, Chip breaker with low frog and high frog ....

    It's a lot to put together. Hopefully soon.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #39
    Waiting with 'bated breath. Just remember to make sure that the BU jointer wins, since I just bought one...

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Wild Wild West USA
    Posts
    1,542
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post
    I stopped sanding in 1978 when I realized that the surface I got from the plane was superior. I had stopped using a scraper a year or two earlier. I use water stains almost exclusively. There is no need to sand after using water stains if the surface is nicely planed.
    Warren said it!
    exactly
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Milton, GA
    Posts
    3,213
    Blog Entries
    1
    Admit it Prashun, you just can't put your new Veritas BU Jointer down for more than 5 minuets without going into withdrawal. I think there is a hint from Derek above "To my eyes, the low angle BD-produced surface just shaded the high angle BU-produced surface." If I were you Prashun I would declare victory and go ahead and do the victory dance. Seems like there is another thread running here where you refused to put that big beast down too. Glad you like it. I have one and the guide in my LV cart. I keep promising myself I want pull the trigger until I get my Stanley #6 and my kit made 26" purple heart jointer finished (again). I keep messing with my woodies. I think there are sleepers in Derek's test that he has not mentioned preferring to divert discussion to the LV BD & BU jointers. I think there is a good chance one of Derek's hand made wood jointers will figure prominently in the final results.

    I am honor bound to bring up curved surfaces like windsor chair seats. I am "honing" my skills but I have seen some amazing glass finishes produced with drawknives and spokeshaves. I have 1-5" (blade) spokeshaves now and I think they are an under rated tool. In my experience there is an ability to feel and work grain better using light drawknives and spokeshaves that is lost in heavier planes that tend to be used in the same manner regardless of the grain. I don't mind small facets in work like chair seats. I like hand work to shine through. I can see how the top of a table may be a different story but I'm not sure it has to be.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •