Old iron, best iron? (24" bandsaw)

[Dennis Aspö]

Just bought this for 200 euros. 24" cast iron bandsaw:











3-phase motor of unknown power. I wonder if I will need Y-D start, or if it has it already. It's made in sweden most likely, there where no identifying marks the seller (a boat building company that renewed its machine park) could find. But I will have a lookaround when it arrives. I have shown it to someone who said it is likely a Göteneds and is probably worth 600 euros minimum and if I did not buy it he would on the spot.

It is 2100mm tall, 1100mm wide, table is 700x700mm.

The alternative saw was a small 1200w scheppach for 300 euros, not a hard choice!

[David Kumm]

1.5-2.5 kw motor? If no motor tag you can check the starter and get an idea based on the settings for the overloads. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

Based on the size I think you might be right, though I'd aim towards the higher side of that, not sure a 1.5kw motor would work that well with a heavy beast like this? I have a 4kw motor hooked up to a small 8" emco jointer (in my mind a hilarious setup) and that motor looks larger to me, in size this looks like the one in my table saw which is a 2.5kw motor.

[Frank Drew]

When this is up and running you might have a terrific tool; I think 24" is a perfect size for a small-medium size shop.

As for motor size, my 1940s 18" Oliver saw had a 1/2 h.p. polyphase induction motor and power was never a problem, but I rarely used it for re-sawing.

[Dennis Aspö]

I'm actually just a hobbyist, but I keep finding industrial quality machines at prices that beat modern hobbyist stuff

[Matt Day]

Is this the same bandsaw you posted about the flanged wheels?

[Thomas Hotchkin]

$ 251.04 US Dollars you SUCK

You have to love wood guides. Is the lower wheel belt driven?

[David Kumm]

old direct drive saws were typically 1-3 hp up to the 30" size. Because they were 6-8 pole low rpm motors they had large frames and lots of torque. Here in the US, 24" was a rare size for cast iron bandsaws. 30" were much more common and usually had 3 hp 600 or 900 rpm motors. That motor looks smaller than my 1 hp Yates. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

Is this the same bandsaw you posted about the flanged wheels?

No that was another saw I came across for about half this price. I forwarded the tip to a friend who was also interested in a bandsaw and much, much better than me at working with old machines. He went and took a look at it and is likely gonna buy and restore it. He says he'll rebuild it and add the tilt capability, if it's needed, now that he thought about it he had worked with a similar machine in school. It tracks nicely when the wheels are not worn but when it accumulates wear it starts jumping off and in that case it'll be a more serious rebuild.

And Thomas Hotchkin it's direct drive, which was one of the things that make us believe the brand is a Göteneds as they came like that. The motor is probably not original and since it was used in an industrial settings they might have had big enough fuses to direct start even large motors. I can direct start a 4kw 3-phase motor no problem at home. Not sure what this'll turn out to be, or if it has Y-D starting or similar. So it might not run as it is at home, or it might, bit of a chance, but it'll be worth it even if I have to do some extra work.

[David Kumm]

I seldom see a wye delta motor or starter on motors less than 7.5 hp ( 5.5 kw ) but I agree it doesn't look original. Must have a special shaft if replaced. Direct drive motors were usually large frame not only due to rpm but to allowing for bigger bearings. Lots of stress on the shaft in comparison to belt drive. Would be interesting to find out how the original motor was spec'd. If the motor itself is wye delta you should be able to tell by the number of leads or the starter. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

I am thinking a conversion to belt drive might be in the books if a motor replacement is required myself. I think though that this motor from the looks of it, is around 2kw

[David Kumm]

I am thinking a conversion to belt drive might be in the books if a motor replacement is required myself. I think though that this motor from the looks of it, is around 2kw

If the motor is shot but correct, have it rewound. Better option. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

If the motor is shot but correct, have it rewound. Better option. Dave

Absolutely, don't convert to belt drive.

If you have starting problems ( doubtful) you can add an inepensive VFD to take care of that, and gain blade braking at the same time...........Rod.

[David Kumm]

Absolutely, don't convert to belt drive.

If you have starting problems ( doubtful) you can add an inepensive VFD to take care of that, and gain blade braking at the same time...........Rod.

If you go the vfd route, get an extra brake resistor installed. Bandsaws are hard to stop so the vfd needs help. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

I was thinking the advantage of a belt drive conversion would have been that any old motor could have been used, and less stressfull on the bearings too.

But if the motor is shot, rewinding is more expensive than a brand new motor, at least it is here. I had a burned out 2.2kw 3-phase motor and the only thing worth doing with it was saving the bearings and chucking the thing into the recycling bin.