You can not wire up a 120 volt outlet with 240 volts and just label it 240 volts. White wires can not be used as "Hot" unless marked at each termination with color other than green. Much more.... I will let the "experts" finish.
You can not wire up a 120 volt outlet with 240 volts and just label it 240 volts. White wires can not be used as "Hot" unless marked at each termination with color other than green. Much more.... I will let the "experts" finish.
Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10
I can't tell, but your GFCI breaker appears to have a white wire other than the curly white wire attached to it?
Yeah, wrong receptacle for 240 V. That one can only be used for 120 V although it is a 20 A one.
I like to label hots other than blacks with red tape but that is just a personal preference.
You might check if your aluminum feeder wire requires that oxide goop.
Bill, that's why I ask.
This was recommended by the "electrical" guy at HD. I specifically told the person that I was wring for a 20 Amp, 240V outlet. I am going back to get two of those single outlet, double pole, 240V receptacles.
Wakahisa,
Google this: Nema Chart
nema_chart.jpg
Last edited by Chris Padilla; 11-26-2014 at 1:57 PM.
Last edited by Bill George; 11-26-2014 at 2:05 PM.
Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10
My bad on the GFIC. I must be dreaming of turkey.
When I was a radio technician in the AF (many years ago), we were always told to never solder an AC connection... Supposedly the solder connection will have higher resistance than the cord itself and you risk the solder melting under higher current loads creating a shorting/fire hazard. I'm not an engineer, but that's the practical guidance I got as a technician...
I was taught (back in my medical products days) that solder joints
would fail where crimped (or fastned) copper wire joints
would last more or less indefinitely.
I had one three week slog where we were required to replace
all the power plugs on a population of infusion pumps
where the previous holder of my position had soldered
them all in place.
Every one of them failed the NFPA leakage current limits.
*******
I would not extend the stock power cord on any machine of this type.
I would make an oversized (heavier gauge wire) extension cord and convert
all machines to the same locking plug.
If my machine uses 12 ga wire in the pigtail, I make the extension 10 ga.
If you smell something "hot" or any portion of the extension feels too hot to handle,
it's likely undersized for the load.
http://openelectrical.org/wiki/index...ng_Calculation
I was an USAF Air Craft Electrician, wish I had a nickel for every soldered connection I made on a Cannon plugs, they were AC, DC and signal voltages. The preferred and required termination at terminal strips was crimped on wire lugs and screws. When allowed, crimped splices instead of soldered. We had crimping tools far more expensive than the Home Depot ones. If you know how to solder correctly you will not have a problem. Solid mechanically made wire splices (copper) and then correctly soldered and taped will be nearly as good as the wire used. A lot of B52's and other aircraft I worked on never seemed to have any issues weither soldered or crimped.
Last edited by Bill George; 11-26-2014 at 5:41 PM.
Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10
Correct 20Amp, 250V receptacles (can't find a duplex one at the box store):
IMG_3285.jpg
Bought some antioxidant goop for the #6 aluminum wire at the lugs.
IMG_3286.jpg
Phil mentioned "inadequate torque" causing heat/failure. I didn't take my torque wrench to the lug, but tightening it until I couldn't tighten anymore. I didn't completely crush the aluminum, but the strands spread out under the lug and they aren't moving anywhere after I tugged on them. I assume this is adequate.
Has anyone actually ever tried to solder two pieces of 12g ( or anything thicker than 18g) stranded wire together? I have been soldering for 30+ years. It takes a whole LOT of solder and makes the joint hard and solid for about 3" on either side of the joint. Forgo the solder. Either extension cord, or replace from the tool inside (providing you are comfortable opening the tool).