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Thread: Best way to repair joint?

  1. #1

    Best way to repair joint?

    Here is a picture of a shelf from a table my grandfather built over 60 years ago. I am rebuilding it and trying to keep it as authentic as possible. Hopefully, you can see my proposed solution to replace the broken tenon. Any other suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks!
    Proposed repair.jpg

  2. #2
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    That's okay fix may I suggest just square first with maybe dowels in the end grain.If you beveled the sides couple degrees you would git a bit more glue surface.
    The dovetail one doent really leave a good second solution if it doesn't work out.
    what happend to the end looks like someone got hungry.Aj

  3. #3
    That will work but I think a point going into the shelf would be easier and stronger than that dovetail shape. Look better too

  4. #4
    Thanks for the responses. I had two other ideas overnight. The first is to take part of Andrew's suggestion and square off the patch, but then stabilize it with a spline or perhaps a biscuit down each side. The second thought is to peg it with dowels. In any case, I need to find some old oak to try and match the shelf.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    That will work but I think a point going into the shelf would be easier and stronger than that dovetail shape. Look better too
    Depends on whether the shelf needs strength against pulling apart as well as supporting weight. Both of these joints would provide about the same area of (almost) long-to-long grain to support weight, but the dovetail has better resistance to pulling apart. On the other hand, a point will be a lot easier to fit tightly to get a good glue joint.

  6. #6
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    I agree on squaring it off while saving as much length as possible. Then because I have a jig for this, I would use a floating tenon to add material that I would shape to match, then re-cut the hole for the tusk-tenon (I assume its a tusk-tenon).

    tenon fix.JPG

    The repair joint could be hidden in the panel that it passes through.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 11-25-2014 at 8:41 AM.
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  7. #7
    +1 on Glenn's method. It's a no show repair

  8. #8
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    Glens idea is slick. It also leaves the option for plan b if it doent work out.Aj

  9. #9
    Clever, Glen. I am envious of your Sketchup abilities too.

  10. #10
    Yeah, I love Glenn's idea, too. I thought of it last night as well, but I don't have the jig and the shelf is pretty skinny, less than 3/4 inch. Is the jig an easy build?

  11. #11
    If you have enough good wood you could make an integral tenon. The new piece should fit on a drill press or mortiser.

  12. #12
    if you can borrow a festool domino that is a 30 second fix

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Marshall View Post
    Yeah, I love Glenn's idea, too. I thought of it last night as well, but I don't have the jig and the shelf is pretty skinny, less than 3/4 inch. Is the jig an easy build?
    Rick,

    I would go with Glenn's idea as well. Lots of glue surface and much stronger than dowels.
    If you can borrow a Domino, great! If you think you'll do a lot of this sort of thing making a router jig is probably a good idea. Either one of those is going to give you a nice clean hole quickly.

    If it is just a one-off repair you could go lower tech with the jig. Just make a drill guide jig and move it along the width of the tenon stub and the repair piece and dill overlapping holes. Brad point bits work best. Then clean out the ridges with a chisel. It's more work and fussing to get it right, but it's not a big investment of time or money in jigs and tools you'd rarely use (if that's your case).

    I'd do a test with some scrap to be sure I had my process down and the dimension are good.

    I would make the jig with only one hole and always put the jig on the same face of the work in case it is not perfectly centered. Since you'd only be drilling a few holes in the work pieces you probably would not even need to bother with the metal sleeve, providing you use some good hardwood for the jig itself. You can use tape on the bit in place of the depth-stop collar.

    Once you have your holes make your floating tenon to match.
    Last edited by Charles Wiggins; 11-25-2014 at 3:24 PM.
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  14. #14
    The repair... Integral tenon cut on table saw, mortise cut with handheld jig and handheld drill (not ideal), Wood match irritates me but no more of that 50 year old wood left. Thanks to all who responded and thanks to Glenn for the idea that inspired the repair.
    the_repair.jpg

  15. #15
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    Nice fix Rick,I give it two thumbs up!

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