Workbench with rectangle 'gaps' ?

[Tyler Keniston]

So I am building a bench...

And I have made my tortoise like way through the decision making process far enough to have decided on a Roubo style bench utilizing Benchcrafted vises. As many are probably aware, their hardware comes with plans for a split top roubo bench. I am intrigued but not sold on the split. I like some of its work holding features, but am concerned that with only the upper rails tying the whole unit together, I am sacrificing long-term rigidness and over-all flatness. (I realize the upper rails qualify for more than an 'only' statement given their size, but I still just want a real, long-term solid and stable solution.) I want a freakin granite foundation (maybe I should actually just go with a granite base


So... what I am toying with is the idea of having what is essentially a solid top with a few long rectangle gaps (or viewed differently, a split top tied together every so often with solid pieces glued right in). I would be throwing out the window the 'ease of construction' and 'ease of moving' benefits of the split and keeping some of the work holding benefits and tool tray benefits. perhaps.

any thoughts?

Ty

[Chris Padilla]

Build your solid top and then route out any "gaps" that you like. Just plan ahead so that you don't place anything in the way of the "gaps."

[Tyler Keniston]

That's a possibility. The size of the gaps and thickness of the top (4+ inches) makes me feel like routing would take a lot of time and energy. I figured that if I committed to this design, I would make it happen during glue-up. To give a rough sense of where I might have gaps and their size, here's a little sketch.
Bench.png

I would think more about precise size and placement, but I think I would like one gap to be open to the end to allow assembled drawers to slide in. I'm not sure how I feel about this idea aesthetically (but then again i'm not sure how I feel about a full split aesthetically either. But it is a work bench after all.)

----
ty

[John Sanford]

That looks like a pretty good idea. I would put the "open" split on the left end rather than the wagon vise end. The reason is you may end up with something that needs to sleeve over the end AND extend to one side enough that the wagon wheel is in the way. Is it likely? No, but it's possible.

Your plan of doing it during glue up is what I would do.

[Jim Matthews]

I've made one. Rather than laminate the top and then cut out the openings,
I made two halves (from a perfectly good top) and built a replaceable divider.

It has a broad surface with wider gaps, to permit easy access with clamps.
The divider itself has a top and bottom face. The bottom face is notched to
fit over the trestle rails. When flipped over, it doubles as a bench hook.

When in the normal position, it can be raised slightly to act as a long batten.
Small plastic wedges are used to keep it elevated if it's loose.

To repeat - it is easier to make your top in two halves and build a replaceable divider to fit between them.

P1040932.jpgP1040933.jpgP1040934.jpgP1040937.jpgP1040938.jpgP1040939.jpg

The divider is fit after the two sides are permanently installed, square to the trestles with parallel facings at the opening.

The three elements are made by placing the dressed lumber in the opening and getting "close" to about 1/64" too thick.

Square the block material so that it can be driven between the two long boards along the length then plane until it is finger tight.

Cut the block material into shorter spacers. Space the dividing blocks far enough apart to allow room for your clamps to fit.

Use the bench sides as clamps to assemble the divider.

Apply some wax, or cooking spray to the trestle rails to resist making the divider a permanent fixture.


Keep the space below clear, for best access.

When the glue dries, plane the top of the divider flush with the bench surface.
****

One note, when selecting the long boards - I used oriented them so that the natural bow along the length
of the boards was in opposition - they bow toward each other at the ends, away from each other in the middle.

If I do this again, Ill probably make the divider entirely from plywood.
I just used what I had in the "someday" pile of lumber.

[glenn bradley]

I just use dog holes for middle of the bench clamping but, I am probably missing something about the benefit of the slots

holddown-3.jpgholddown-4.jpgBench holddowns.JPGholddown-1.jpg

Made from Harbor Freight clamps and some 1/8" steel strap.

[Jim Matthews]

holddown-1.jpg

Made from Harbor Freight clamps and some 1/8" steel strap.

That's clever.

[Tyler Keniston]

Yeah that is a pretty cool clamp modification. I think I personally would opt for a way to use them without modification (hence the gap idea), but I still really like that idea. I guess with your design you can put a hole anywhere too, as opposed to being limited to gaps just running down the middle. But I will have a couple hold fasts that can be run into holes too.

Jim -
If I understand your post / images correctly, what you have is a fully split top (i.e. two separate tops) that you place a gap filler board in between. This is actually what the Benchcrafted plans call for. A fully split top with a 'gap stop' not unlike yours.

My reason for considering other options was the idea that having two independent tops would contribute to a less stable and sturdy bench (in the long run at least). It may be an unjust concern however.

[Jim Matthews]

Jim - If I understand your post / images correctly, what you have is a fully split top (i.e. two separate tops) that you place a gap filler board in between. My reason for considering other options was the idea that having two independent tops would contribute to a less stable and sturdy bench (in the long run at least). It may be an unjust concern however.

I have just put this thing together, so I can't say.
It's been stable while I test my long shooting board
that I just built to Terry Gordon's design.

I was drawn to the idea looking at Bob Rozaieski's Nicholson style bench.
I wanted an integral batten, full length and more clamping options.

Mine has a rather wide series of slots - but the spacer blocks are as deep as the top.
When it's assembled, the whole thing is pretty stiff.

If Jameel is offering his kits with a split top, they must be stable.
He builds things to last for a few generations.

I'm just suggesting this because it's easier to build a gap in an assembly
when you're laminating that it is to cut one out, later.