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Thread: Sliding table attachment or track saw

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Festool TS55 (tracksaw) and a fully-loaded MFT3 is all you need. I love mine. So much easier than trying to jig things up on a tablesaw.


    Quote Originally Posted by steve joly View Post
    I have a staircase project coming up and it is a great excuse to add to my tool collection. I've decided that there are 2 options available that will suit my needs for the staircase and would serve me well as an addition to my workshop.

    Option 1 is a sliding table attachment for my tablesaw, there are a few options available, I was considering the grizzly version.
    https://www.grizzly.com/products/Sli...achment/T10223

    option 2 is a track saw.

    The price is pretty much the same, which would you rather have? I do a little of everything in my shop so it is hard to say that I have a specific need for one over the other and I think both would be nice.

  2. #17
    Speaking as someone who uses a slider on a daily basis, and a tracksaw and Excalibur sliding table often, I would say the sliding table add-on will get the most use for the type of work I do (cabinets, furniture and millwork). The tracksaw gets used for things that are too awkward to set up on the tablesaws, but much less than the Excalibur for general use. Repetitive, accurate crosscuts are easier on the Excalibur, though I have not used a MFT and perhaps that is a different story.

  3. #18
    As best as I can tell repeatable accurate cuts with a Track saw requires other expensive items to be purchased along side the already expensive saw and track otherwise all you really have is a glorified circular saw with a straight edge clamped down to a piece of wood with pencil marks on it. If you were rich and could afford both is the only way I can see buying a track saw. Everyone says it will do so much more and its way more versatile but much like a lot of us it sounds like your needs don't dictate something portable and easy to pack into a small space. A sliding table saw attachment would probably be used way more often then a track saw unless a majority of your work is sheet goods. That doesn't appear to be the case, so again I don't see a track saw helping you out much other then being one of the "cool" kids with a festool.

  4. #19
    I'm not exactly sure what kind of cuts you need to make, but I wanted to make sure you know about a kind of unique track saw related cutting device called the EZ-ONE woodworking center at http://www.eurekazone.com/product_p/ezt1000.htm

    Picture a track that raises and lowers on top of a rail system that keeps wood perpendicular to the track and allows use of stops to position wood (perpendicular or not) and allow perfect repeated cuts.

    I've used Eurekazone's tracks and saw for years, but unfortunately so far have just not had the cash to buy an EZ-ONE. Search for "Eurekazone ez-one" on Youtube for videos. If you have questions you can post them to their forum. Lots of users there to help you.

  5. #20
    A thousand dollars for that table seems absurd when you factor that in with the investment of your track saw and tracks. That having been said that type of system seems to be what would be needed to make a track saw really useful for something other then breaking sheet goods down. It still seems to me that these systems are excellent for working with sheet goods and larger panels but for everything else they do there are tools that do the job better a don't coast a small fortune.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by keith micinski View Post
    A thousand dollars for that table seems absurd when you factor that in with the investment of your track saw and tracks. That having been said that type of system seems to be what would be needed to make a track saw really useful for something other then breaking sheet goods down. It still seems to me that these systems are excellent for working with sheet goods and larger panels but for everything else they do there are tools that do the job better a don't coast a small fortune.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDkgHJYYkrk

    I watched the video, I have to say I am very impressed, especially doing cut on small stock. As a cutting platform, I think EZ-One is much better than Festool MFT. It would be fantastic if Festool tracksaw and its rail could be used on EZ-One.

    I have Festool TS55 and MFT/3, do not think it can replace table saw. After watching this video, I am convinced that EZ-One with Festool tracksaw can replace table saw for most people, and it is safer.
    Last edited by James Zhu; 11-27-2014 at 10:05 PM.

  7. #22
    It does seem like a good concept but I just quit watching after the third cut in the tapered leg demo wasn't even close. If you can't even fudge your demo video to look right that means you really have to try hard to make it work right in real life.

  8. Quote Originally Posted by keith micinski View Post
    It does seem like a good concept but I just quit watching after the third cut in the tapered leg demo wasn't even close. If you can't even fudge your demo video to look right that means you really have to try hard to make it work right in real life.
    That's exactly what I thought. When I saw that I said to myself that this thing looks like crap. If they can't get it right on the demo then how is the regular Joe going to...

    I just wonder how many people did not pick up on that and thought the tapered leg demo was great.

    This product looks like the "innovative" Christmas Craftsman product that comes out every year that promises to do everything for you and then you get it home and it sucks (I have a couple LOL).

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by keith micinski View Post
    A thousand dollars for that table seems absurd when you factor that in with the investment of your track saw and tracks. That having been said that type of system seems to be what would be needed to make a track saw really useful for something other then breaking sheet goods down. It still seems to me that these systems are excellent for working with sheet goods and larger panels but for everything else they do there are tools that do the job better a don't coast a small fortune.
    And here come the attacks. I knew they'd come quickly. I just wanted to make sure Steve knew such an option is out there.

    The EZ-ONE does't require purchase of extra tracks or an expensive track saw. You just have to have a regular circular saw. The Hitachi 7-1/4" saw I use with their tracks cost me a bit more than $100.

    I'm not sure if it is necessary to use a larger saw to cut 2x lumber. I usually use a sliding miter saw for that. The users on their forum could answer that question if you're interested.
    Last edited by Ken Kortge; 11-27-2014 at 10:46 PM.

  10. #25
    Not attacking, just pointing out I am pretty sure there are some definite flaws in that system. I wasn't aware you could use a regular saw with that. It helps the price significantly then. I wonder though with a regular 7-1/4 saw and blade how good of a cut you can get. I have looked and there aren't to many options out there for quality 7-1/4 blades. Plus you bring up a good point about lack of power in the thicker stuff. It definitely looks interesting but only a coupe hundred bucks interesting not a grand interesting.

  11. #26
    Join Date
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    My track saw gets used for so much more than breaking down sheet goods, the original reason for purchasing one. Cutting off doors bottoms has happened at least a dozen times. Cutting a long angular slice off a board happened a few times. Off cutting a long line of deck boards after screwing them down. And the list goes on. The great thing is that you just put the edge of the guide right on the cut line, no figuring offsets and they have a splinter guard and good dust collection vs a circ saw with a straight edge. Normally you don't need to even clamp the guide down due to the rubber strips on the bottom of the track. Using a 7 1/4" saw with a guide crosscutting plywood will get you a lot of tear out.

    And you don't need to go Festool, I have the Grizzly and it works fine. $280 for the whole kit including two 55" rails vs about $750 for the equivalent TS 55 Festool kit. Other options out there too.
    Last edited by Ole Anderson; 11-28-2014 at 9:08 AM.
    NOW you tell me...

  12. #27
    It appears Festool tracksaw rail could be used on EZ-One with some modification based on some threads in http://www.tracksawforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1.

    EZ-One with Festool tracksaw is a very attractive solution for weekend hobbyist, not for production use though. You get very good dust collection, you can make some cut which is impossible to do on a traditional cabinet saw, like long trim cut, or very difficult/dangerous like cut very thin piece from narrow stock.

    Certainly, you do not have to use Festool tracksaw which is expensive, but to get the finest cut plus excellent dust collection, I would at least use Festool tracksaw, or Mafell, the best tracksaw.

  13. #28
    If you have the room . Have you looked at the
    Excalibur 50-SLT40P by general inter. sliding table attachment I have had one on my saw for 20+ yrs and can miter a 4'x8' sheet of ply at a 45*

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Northwestern Connecticut
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    7,149
    I've done a lot of this sort of thing, many different approaches to the work, all are valid. It's important to understand that the work is very basic and doesn't require either a sliding table attachment nor a track saw nor a euro format slider to be accomplished quickly and accurately. In fact, $30 in MDF and a few hours out your time are a far more valuable investment than any toys IMO. I'm a tool junkie by nature and don't need help justifying any tool purchase, but do try to keep things honest and in perspective. I did literally hundreds of very large very heavy pie shaped treads for a job using nothing more than a sled on a cabinet saw made from 3/4" MDF, maple runner, a few destaco clamps. I've done them with a track saw, done them on a euro slider (hardest method to set up, only worth the trouble on very thick parts with large numbers total).

    You want accurate angled shapes that are the same? Buy the track saw, make a template (keeping in mind you could easily and cheaply do the same thing on a basic cabinet saw), cut your blanks close to the lines using a bandsaw or TS sled, route them to the template, or in my case pattern shape on a large shaper. The euro slider can be more nuisance than it's worth to set up for angled cuts on long tapers, a sliding table attachment on a cabinet saw like those you referenced doesn't have the stroke to pull off the long cuts or enough support across its width, the track saw involves you carefully placing that aluminum plate on carefully laid out lines multiple times.....almost definitely the road to inaccuracies. And after all these blanks are made, you still have to carefully fit each tread between the two curve formed stringers which by their nature will vary.....so having them exactly the same to aircraft precision is of little value, it's not the space shuttle, you will still be fitting tread by tread. Leave me long! And probably a bit wide....

    Another approach to making such treads could be as simple as a pattern shaped carefully to your desired shape, add some fences to to guide a circular saw, screw the pattern to the bottom of each tread blank, one edge is straight, back edge gets sawn to the taper, two ends get cut to the appropriate angle with the same jig or using a SCMS, or miter gauge on your uni saw, or cross cut sled on uni saw.....or you just saw them freehand a bit over with a basic jig saw and route to the pattern which is still screwed to the tread. With three basic hand held power tools you may already own and 45min at most of template making you can easily and in a compact manner make as accurate a tread at least as any other method.
    "A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    I've done a lot of this sort of thing, many different approaches to the work, all are valid. It's important to understand that the work is very basic and doesn't require either a sliding table attachment nor a track saw nor a euro format slider to be accomplished quickly and accurately. In fact, $30 in MDF and a few hours out your time are a far more valuable investment than any toys IMO. I'm a tool junkie by nature and don't need help justifying any tool purchase, but do try to keep things honest and in perspective. I did literally hundreds of very large very heavy pie shaped treads for a job using nothing more than a sled on a cabinet saw made from 3/4" MDF, maple runner, a few destaco clamps. I've done them with a track saw, done them on a euro slider (hardest method to set up, only worth the trouble on very thick parts with large numbers total).

    You want accurate angled shapes that are the same? Buy the track saw, make a template (keeping in mind you could easily and cheaply do the same thing on a basic cabinet saw), cut your blanks close to the lines using a bandsaw or TS sled, route them to the template, or in my case pattern shape on a large shaper. The euro slider can be more nuisance than it's worth to set up for angled cuts on long tapers, a sliding table attachment on a cabinet saw like those you referenced doesn't have the stroke to pull off the long cuts or enough support across its width, the track saw involves you carefully placing that aluminum plate on carefully laid out lines multiple times.....almost definitely the road to inaccuracies. And after all these blanks are made, you still have to carefully fit each tread between the two curve formed stringers which by their nature will vary.....so having them exactly the same to aircraft precision is of little value, it's not the space shuttle, you will still be fitting tread by tread. Leave me long! And probably a bit wide....

    Another approach to making such treads could be as simple as a pattern shaped carefully to your desired shape, add some fences to to guide a circular saw, screw the pattern to the bottom of each tread blank, one edge is straight, back edge gets sawn to the taper, two ends get cut to the appropriate angle with the same jig or using a SCMS, or miter gauge on your uni saw, or cross cut sled on uni saw.....or you just saw them freehand a bit over with a basic jig saw and route to the pattern which is still screwed to the tread. With three basic hand held power tools you may already own and 45min at most of template making you can easily and in a compact manner make as accurate a tread at least as any other method.
    Thank you for your advice and for keeping me honest. As I stated earlier in this thread I understand there are many ways to complete this job. However as I get close to starting this project I chose to expand my tool collection and improve my workshop in the process. This post was looking for constructive advice from people more experienced than myself with comparing 2 tools that can both achieve this goal.

    My project is going to include many of the techniques discussed above, however I personally do not like using a router and a template for these type of cuts. I understand it works and many people seem to have great luck with this technique. I have better luck with making a jig for my saw and the sliding table attachment seems like it would be very good for attaching jigs to. But many people absolutely rave about their track saws and I felt that I could also do this job with one of them as well.

    Do you have any pictures of the staircase that required hundreds of treads?

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