Cutting Copper Tubing

[Bill Adamsen]

Had some time this morning - and in an effort to get more organized - milled up strips to hold router bits in a drawer. Of course, I don't have that 17/32" or 9/16" drill bit suitable for holding the 1/2" shank bits, and a 1/2" bit drills a hole too tight to get the bits in and out easily. By serendipity, discovered that 1/2" copper tubing fits a 5/8" hole perfectly, and type L tubing provides a nice loose fit for 1/2" shank bits. What is an easy way to make the large number of copper tubing cutoffs (50+/-) necessary to hold my bits? I left my tubing cutters someplace "not here" apparently - and I'd be loathe to do that many cuts with a tubing cutter anyway.

[Rick Thompson34]

Metal cutting blade on a band saw using a miter gauge and stop block? Not sure if that would be a perfect solution, but it's probably where I'd start.

Rick

[Bill Adamsen]

Wonder if there is a cheap plastic pipe available at home centers that would do the same thing, and be easier to cut?

[Cary Falk]

I wouldn't hesitate to cut them on a table saw or a miter saw. Make sure you have a good grip so it doesn't spin and cause issues. A carbide blade will cut it like butta...

[Ellen Benkin]

Plumbers use tubing cutters that last for years. Why wouldn't you use one?

[Bill Huber]

Plumbers use tubing cutters that last for years. Why wouldn't you use one?

He left his cutter some place and does not have it any more.

[Bill Huber]

Years ago I cut a bunch of copper tubing on the table saw with a non-ferrous blade in the saw and it worked great. I did do a real good clean up after I finished.

I just set a stop on the fence like I would do with wood and cut away, I cut like 100 of them 6" long.

[Mike Cutler]

80+ tooth carbide tipped blade on a drop miter saw. You'll need to make a ZCI fixture with stops built in to control the length.
I cut about a zillion rings from Type M a few years back for a wind chime thingy a coworker was making. He bought the blade and I got to keep it for doing the cuts.

[scott vroom]

A tube cutter is fast and leaves a clean cut. Cutting with a saw will require de-burring (assuming you even care about a jagged edge). A small Ridgid cutter is around 10 bucks.

[scott vroom]

I just re-read the original post. Wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to just pick up a 9/16 bit at the local hardware?

[Mark Bolton]

Using a tubing cutting will roll the internal edge of the tubing and require reaming which will leave a less than desirable outcome if you need a clean internal for the bit to slide in. Very fine blade on the band saw would be best Id think but will still require cleanup/deburring.

[Bill Adamsen]

Job done! Cut about fifty using an old blade in the chop box. Worked great, cleanup was a bit of a drag. Didn't need to sand or clean up any of the cutoffs.

Fifty cuts with even a quality tubing cutter would not only have required deburring ... but would have taken F O R E V E R (with type M tubing) !!!

[Jason White]

Bandsaw with a wood-cutting blade. Copper is very soft.

[Kevin McCluney]

Is there going to be an issue with galvanic corrosion where the router bits' steel shafts touch the copper tubing?

[scott vroom]

Using a tubing cutting will roll the internal edge of the tubing and require reaming which will leave a less than desirable outcome if you need a clean internal for the bit to slide in. Very fine blade on the band saw would be best Id think but will still require cleanup/deburring.

Nah...no need to ream for that application. Even with the rolled in edge it leaves a 17/32 hole, perfect for a 1/2" bit. Copper is softer than steel, that inward edge will soften over time, won't scratch the shank, and won't be noticeable at all. But more than one way to skin that cat and it looks like the OP has a workable solution.