In Search Of A Tapering Jig

[scott vroom]

I had rendered down a number of designs into the things that were important to me only to find the Woodsmith version had everything I was after. Mine varies a bit in capacity but, is generally the same.

Attachment 301109Attachment 301110Attachment 301111

The leg rotates on a pin so any number of sides can be done without a change in setup or keeping track of cut-offs to tape back on.

Is anyone else using a pin to rotate the leg? This seems to be a superior setup since it allows one to taper all 4 sides without re-doing the setup.

Glenn, is it possible to take a couple more pics showing that pin and clamp setup from the inside (other side of the plywood block)?

[scott vroom]

The only safe way doing tapered leg on joiner is to build a bridge type jig with leg firmly secured under it plus some stops for fast repeatable cut, so your hands are away from the cutter.

Is there a video showing this method?

[James Zhu]

Is there a video showing this method?

It is only my idea. I am not sure if anyone else did that.

[Jim Becker]

Scott, I encourage you to build a jig for this...it's a nice project in itself and will be a go-to in your shop for as long as you continue with this, um...addiction.

I liked mine so much that when I switched to a slider from a traditional cabinet saw, I took the time to adapt it to my slider's wagon for continued use for what the jig excels at!

[Daniel Moore]

Is anyone else using a pin to rotate the leg? This seems to be a superior setup since it allows one to taper all 4 sides without re-doing the setup.

Glenn, is it possible to take a couple more pics showing that pin and clamp setup from the inside (other side of the plywood block)?

Yes, I use a jig very similar to Glenn's (drill the leg end and rotate the leg on the pin). I also run it in the miter slot. At the apron end of the leg, I have an adjustable/tie-down that holds the leg in place so that when the leg is rotated, the taper begins at the same point on each side. My pin end of the jig is not a fancy as Glenn's. Instead of being continuously adjustable, I have several pin blocks that I swap out depending on the size legs that I'm cutting. Glenn's is a better arrangement.

This method is definitely a superior way to taper legs.

[scott vroom]

Daniel, do you have a couple of pics of your jig, the apron end in particular?

[Keith Hankins]

Explain how that vid is dangerous?

[scott vroom]

Keith, I think they may have missed the graphic that said "guard removed for demonstration purposes only; use the guard when doing this in your shop" (or something to that effect).

[Keith Hankins]

Watch CN's vid on his jig.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIc1m5s-jiE

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, do you drill the holes in the leg on a drill press? If so, how do you hold the leg on the table in a vertical position?

The hole is quite shallow and so has minimal impact on your work. I have a couple of drills that have bulls-eye levels stuck to the back of them. I level the leg in the vise and drill the hole with a drill motor.

Drill Motor Bubble (sm).jpg

Is anyone else using a pin to rotate the leg? This seems to be a superior setup since it allows one to taper all 4 sides without re-doing the setup.

Glenn, is it possible to take a couple more pics showing that pin and clamp setup from the inside (other side of the plywood block)?

Here's a shot of the components apart and assembled:

Taper Jig 2.0 pin assembly detail (1).jpg . Taper Jig 2.0 pin assembly detail (2).jpg

This would be a 'normal' operating position:

Taper Jig 2.0 pin assembly detail (3).jpg

This is the maximum setting for a 4" dimension at the small end of the taper:

Taper Jig 2.0 pin assembly detail (4).jpg

This is the minimum setting for a 3/4" dimension at the small end of the taper:

Taper Jig 2.0 pin assembly detail (5).jpg

The extra hole in the corner of the plate is to store the pin when the jig is used as an edge ripping jig. Note that one of my mods to the original is to allow a great range of operation and to allow the plate to be moved out of the way with out being removed (just a larger plate with longer slots):

Taper Jig 2.0 pin assembly detail (6).jpg

A few points; I tried various knobs to have a tool-less capability for the pin but, found everything I could get my hands on extended into the blade path in one configuration or another. So, I defaulted to a nut for locking the pin position just as the Woodsmith design uses. I guess maybe that's why they did it . I have a raised panel jig that rides against the fence and that is a valid method. I did not want to not worry about control along that axis while doing tapers and so added the shallow dado and miter 'bar'. I did make the miter 'bar' removable in case I ran into a capacity issue as Bill H. describes. Never hurts to keep things flexible. Most of my jigs have extra functionality built in since I am selfish with my shop space. I do have a few one-trick-pony jigs but, most are multi-taskers

[Mike Cozad]

Thanks for the additional info. I will have to build one. I have the dangerous type bought at Woodcraft many years ago. I hate the thing.

For your knob on the pin, could you modify a handle from a small f-style clamp by setting the nut in the end with epoxy? Seems like the size might stay out of the blade path (if I am picturing the blade path correctly). Just a thought. My antique jointer has similar knobs made from cast iron for the fence, which is where the idea came from.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks for the additional info. I will have to build one. I have the dangerous type bought at Woodcraft many years ago. I hate the thing.

For your knob on the pin, could you modify a handle from a small f-style clamp by setting the nut in the end with epoxy? Seems like the size might stay out of the blade path (if I am picturing the blade path correctly). Just a thought. My antique jointer has similar knobs made from cast iron for the fence, which is where the idea came from.

Hey! A vertical knob is a good idea. It would have to have a maximum diameter of about 1/2" but, I will keep my eye out. If it really bugs me I cold just make one but, the 7/16" 'spin-tite' is always nearby for two other machines that stand in that area so I have, so far, been lazy.

[scott vroom]

Glenn, thanks for posting the additional pics...very helpful. Is there a particular name for the threaded pin? Where did you purchase it? I tried using Google but came up empty.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Glenn, thanks for posting the additional pics...very helpful. Is there a particular name for the threaded pin? Where did you purchase it? I tried using Google but came up empty.

I've done this before, for another purpose. The detailed name of the threaded pin is:

1/4" hex bolt & hacksaw, plus file to deburr after you cut the head off.

[scott vroom]

I've done this before, for another purpose. The detailed name of the threaded pin is:

1/4" hex bolt & hacksaw, plus file to deburr after you cut the head off.

Actually I was referring to the pin that holds the leg in place....the one with the oblong plate that slides into the blue anodized channel.

Edit: OK, I think I get it....it's a sawed off hex bolt with a threaded T-nut?