Tap and Die sets for wooden screws?

[Sean Hughto]

K, sorry. You did ask for other suggestions.

[Michael Ray Smith]

Garrett Wade also sells one that looks better than the one sold by Woodcraft. (I don't know who actually makes either of them.) Unlike the WC, the taps are fluted and the set includes a bottoming tap. Anyone used that one?

[Michael Ray Smith]

Indeed I did. And thanks for yours.

[Michael Ray Smith]

But am I correct? The Beall requires a router, right?

[Sean Hughto]

Yes. A small trim router is fine. But some router is necessary.

[David Weaver]

Before I'd worry about a bottoming tap, I'd make sure I had a reason to get one. I think I bought a bottoming tap with mine, and I've never used it (it may be that I got the one from garrett wade, but it's the same thing as the AMT.

I forgot to mention the one problem with the import one - the flimsy cheater bar that they give you for the T style tap is too week and you can bend it when you two hand it (which you need to do on a big one).

That and the 6 TPI is a bit too fine for something as large as 1 1/2". Not a huge deal, though, if you're using it on a moxon vise it's not generally going to vary much (in how wide the vise is set).

[Warren Mickley]

I use a bench screw that was made by Daniel O'Hagan in 1977. It is made from dogwood, Cornus florida, about 2.3 inches in diameter with a 4 inch hub all one piece. There are two teeth per inch. The screw box and tap that made it were listed in the woodcraft catalog for about $400 at the time. These tools are still available from Dieter Schmid for 1126 Euros. The screw box has two cutters so it cuts the threads in two stages. The tools are expensive, but the quality of the threads is just superb. Much more cleanly cut than a router set up. They are still slick and intact after years of daily use.

For bench screws I think maybe 2 1/2 is the ideal diameter with 2 inches the smallest I would want. 1 1/2 is skimpy for a bench screw. Also I would avoid the shallow threads that come with too many threads per inch; I would not want more than 3 or 3.5 threads per inch.

I have used some of the smaller screw boxes from this same company and they are similar- they work nicely and are expensive. I also have used the old Conover boxes and once made a box to match a tap I had. I would not recommend making a screw box without another in hand to copy from.

http://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.htm

[David Weaver]

I use a bench screw that was made by Daniel O'Hagan in 1977. It is made from dogwood, Cornus florida, about 2.3 inches in diameter with a 4 inch hub all one piece. There are two teeth per inch. The screw box and tap that made it were listed in the woodcraft catalog for about $400 at the time. These tools are still available from Dieter Schmid for 1126 Euros. The screw box has two cutters so it cuts the threads in two stages. The tools are expensive, but the quality of the threads is just superb. Much more cleanly cut than a router set up. They are still slick and intact after years of daily use.

For bench screws I think maybe 2 1/2 is the ideal diameter with 2 inches the smallest I would want. 1 1/2 is skimpy for a bench screw. Also I would avoid the shallow threads that come with too many threads per inch; I would not want more than 3 or 3.5 threads per inch.

I have used some of the smaller screw boxes from this same company and they are similar- they work nicely and are expensive. I also have used the old Conover boxes and once made a box to match a tap I had. I would not recommend making a screw box without another in hand to copy from.

http://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.htm

(i agree about the 1 1/2 inch, it's too small for a main vise and WAY too many TPI at 6. It's a better size for small stuff like a moxon vise)

[Michael Ray Smith]

Here's another "they suck" vote from Chris Schwartz a couple of years ago. And he didn't have any ideas for alternatives that 'Creekers haven't already suggested here here. http://www.pularwoodworking.com/techniques/hand-tools-techniques/a-rare-rant-about-threadboxes

[Michael Ray Smith]

Yeah, I can't really think of what I'd use a bottoming tap for, either. Just seems like I ought to have one.

[David Weaver]

Here's another "they suck" vote from Chris Schwartz a couple of years ago. And he didn't have any ideas for alternatives that 'Creekers haven't already suggested here here. http://www.pularwoodworking.com/techniques/hand-tools-techniques/a-rare-rant-about-threadboxes

rehardening the bit wouldn't have been very hard to do if it was suspected of being soft. It's tiny. I'm not surprised.

[Pat Barry]

This young man has 5 or 6 videos on youtube showing in great detail how he makes large screws and nuts with a router. I haven't done it but have enjoyed the videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C4p...g&spfreload=10

He reminds me of a young George Wilson.

[Ryan Baker]

The kits from all the main WWing suppliers are pretty much the same. Some include the bottoming tap while others sell it separately, and the prices vary a little. It is widely known that there were batches of these kits that didn't match in pitch, in which case they are useless. I have some that do match, and they work just fine and make very operable threads. If you get one of these kits, you should make some test cuts to check that the pitch is right while you still have time to return it if it is bad. Sharpening the cutters is definitely a good idea. Getting them adjusted to the proper depth makes a big difference too.

The Beall taps are nice, and work well. I'm not a big fan of the router-based "thread box". That might make sense for a large screw, but in the sizes the Beall system provides, I would rather buy or make a good thread box.

For big screws, like a bench screw, I agree that you want something about 2.5-3 inches with about 3-4 threads per inch (and a better thread profile). At that point, you are pretty much building the whole setup anyway, so you can make it any way you prefer.