Chuck size needed

[Jim Hipp]

A friend gave me 6 cherry logs from a tree he removed 2 weeks ago. Nice gift. Size ran up to 18" in diameter. I have been wanting to try a large bowl so I roughed out a bowl 11 inches wide and 6.5 inches deep using my Jet 16 X 42 with a Nova G3 chuck in compression mode.

I managed to get it done, leaving it 1 inch thick. Weight was 8.4 pounds Did I mention it was green?

I came away from that experience thinking I need a larger chuck.

Anybody have an opinion about the need for a larger chuck and which one to buy?

Thanks.

[robert baccus]

How about a nova 2--all the jaws will fit and it will handle anything 2 guys can put up there on it.

[Thomas Canfield]

A larger chuck is needed for a Jet 16x42. You are working at the max if not over the limit for a Nova G3. I would also suggest getting a set of #3 or even #4 jaws to go with you larger chuck. I like my Oneway Stronghold and have #4 jaws for large pieces on my Powermatic 3520, but also have a set of #3 jaws on a Oneway Talon that can handle a 12 to 14" piece without any problem, and I like the grooved straight jaws as opposed to dovetail jaws on my large Nova chuck.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

a G3 should have no problem with a bowl that size - what you may need is larger jaws.

[Roger Chandler]

The Supernova 2 is a good chuck and the power grip jaws work well, and will hold a tenon over 3" in diameter......the 100mm bowl jaws will hold a 4" tenon. They also have bigger jaw sets.

[jared herbert]

I have bought several refurbished super nova 2 chucks directly from the company, off their website. Never had a problem with any of them and they are at a substantial discount to retail. Sometimes they are out of them but not for long. If your present jaws would work on them this might be a good solution for you.

[Michael Mills]

Another + for the SN2. Your G3 should have no problem with your diameter (11") but the depth of 6.5" is a different matter. You did not say what diameter you started with. I have SN2's and G3's and use the G3's more because most of my turning is <12" even though the lathe is 16". For bowls the 100mm jaws should work fine but for only a few $$ more I would go with the powergrips in the event you wanted to turn deeper items such as hollow forms. The powergrips can be used with either with a short tenon (max 1/2" in contracting dovetail) for bowls or a long tenon/spigot 1"+ for hollow forms.

You will note the size recess or tenon is almost identical but the powergrips allow a much deeper/longer item.
http://www.teknatool.com/Downloads/jawtable.pdf

[Jim Hipp]

Another + for the SN2. Your G3 should have no problem with your diameter (11") but the depth of 6.5" is a different matter. You did not say what diameter you started with. I have SN2's and G3's and use the G3's more because most of my turning is <12" even though the lathe is 16". For bowls the 100mm jaws should work fine but for only a few $$ more I would go with the powergrips in the event you wanted to turn deeper items such as hollow forms. The powergrips can be used with either with a short tenon (max 1/2" in contracting dovetail) for bowls or a long tenon/spigot 1"+ for hollow forms.

You will note the size recess or tenon is almost identical but the powergrips allow a much deeper/longer item.
http://www.teknatool.com/Downloads/jawtable.pdf

Interesting chart and the power grips might be my best bet.
I didn't measure the starting (rough) diameter but it would not clear the banjo but just barely cleared the bed. The piece was way out of round as all mine seem to be.
As a newbie I need all the support I can get, occasional catches make a secure grip by the chuck a must.

To Jared
Thanks for the tip on refurbished chucks.

Thanks to all for the comments.

[Aliza Martin Joe]

I just wanted to share that bowl with you.

[William Bachtel]

Good advice, get that occasional catch out of your mind. Are you a woodturning club member, might want to join up, money is well worth it.

[Jim Hipp]

Good advice, get that occasional catch out of your mind. Are you a woodturning club member, might want to join up, money is well worth it.

I do belong to a club and after the holidays I will join a 2nd.
Still haven't mastered turning bowls yet but I am improving.
The biggest problem I have is cleaning the bowl out. I can't seem to find the sweet spot as I go in the left side.

[Thomas Canfield]

[QUOTE=Jim Hipp;2343349]Interesting chart and the power grips might be my best bet.
I didn't measure the starting (rough) diameter but it would not clear the banjo but just barely cleared the bed. The piece was way out of round as all mine seem to be.
As a newbie I need all the support I can get, occasional catches make a secure grip by the chuck a must.


Mounting larger out of round, unbalanced, etc pieces is all the more reason to get a larger and stronger chuck. A 11" bowl is only 5.5" from center, and you should be able to trim with a chainsaw or band saw down to 6 or even 7" to help reduce the unbalance problem. I use cardboard circle templates for that purpose and generally oversize the blank to allow getting the maximum size when roughing.