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Thread: Needing a shoulder plane (suggestions)

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Schatz View Post
    Ok, I've got a Stanley 46 (the combination plane with the skew cutters). I have 8 cutters but not the little ones (the ones I need!). It's an OK tool but not a great one. I usually hog out the rabbit with a Table Saw (verboten?) and then clean up all of the edges with a chisel. The 46 is not a smoothing type of plane. It rough's out pretty well but I have a hard time setting it to make very precise and finish type cuts. Maybe I need to fiddle with it more.

    BTW I bought all of the cutters,the plane, depth stop, nicker, and fence for $40. : )
    If you hog out the majority of the waste on a table saw, I'd use a router plane to get the bottom to the correct depth. The problem with the table saw is that the wood can be warped somewhat and that causes differences in the depth of the cut. With a router plane and the correct size blade, you can make the rabbet have a constant depth.

    To trim the sides, I like the Stanley 79. They made 79's with and without a depth stop. Try to get one with a stop. There are alternate planes for trimming the side of a rabbet - the Stanley 98 and 99, or the LN versions of those planes. The 98 and 99 are a lot more expensive than the 79, and I prefer the 79.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  2. #17
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    I love my shoulder planes but, they are shoulder planes. As David points out, they do not clear their own chips well due to their more specific design. If you are rabbeting, I would get a rabbet plane; nicker and all ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


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  3. #18
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    Eric, you might consider a vintage Stanley 78 duplex fillester and rabbet plane. They're regularly available on the auction site. You want to make certain that the plane includes the depth stop, fence and fence rod. Frequently around $50 or so depending on condition. Just scroll down a ways to see Patrick's description.

    http://http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm
    Last edited by Charles Bjorgen; 12-05-2014 at 8:52 PM.

  4. #19
    It's in the budget to get a decent moving fillister and a rabbet plane and probably still have money left over, even if you get nice examples of both.

    Moving fillister will give you the ability to make a repeating cut and with a nicker to have a tidy top edge, and the rabbet will give you flexibility to work angles and such that the moving fillister doesn't like.

  5. #20
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    I have one of those modern Stanley 90 series planes, but I don't like it very much. I would not recommend going that route.

    Obviously, if you can find a good deal on a slightly used quality model, that is a good option. But that rarely happens when you wish it would.

    I agree that a good moving filletster or rabbet plane is probably what you want. I don't think I would recommend an old wooden filletster for most people, because they often have wear in the most important part of the sole, which is not simple to fix. A decent condition Stanley 78 (or similar copy) can be found pretty easily for a reasonable cost, and they usually don't take much work to get working well. Lee Valley actually sells an Asian wooden rabbet plane for under $40. Many have knocked this plane for having chatter because the wedge is too far from the throat. Mine works great and I have not had any chatter problem with it.

    Another option, if you are up for a little project, would be to make your own rabbet plane. It isn't really that hard to do. If you don't want to try to make the iron, you could use one from another plane or buy an iron new from someone like Lie Nielsen. You could make several planes that way and stay within your budget.

    Edit: To clarify, there's nothing wrong with old wooden planes either, as long as you can find ones in good shape. If they need work, they can be as much effort as building your own.
    Last edited by Ryan Baker; 12-05-2014 at 9:12 PM.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Schatz View Post
    I'm looking for a good X-mas gift from the wife. I'm in need of something rabbiting. Also, I'm looking to keep it around $100. So far I'm looking at the Stanley Sweetheart 92 shoulder plane. It's $90 so there's that. It would be the first new plane I own. I'm comfortable fetteling and truing it up (which the reviews say are super necessary).

    I'm needing this to true up box lids that sit inside of the top and other similar things. Not really planning on using it for shoulders much. I just use a chisel for that work. The box tops are longer and need more precision than a standard BE chisel.

    Any thoughts on the plane or maybe an alternative? I would love a LN Rabbit block plane with the nicker but it's just outside of my price window and also I've got a good old no-name block.
    Hi Eric

    If I understand you correctly, what you are after is a plane to fine tune a rebate (rabbit) ... ? If this is for a box, then I also assume that the rebate is no wider than a 1/4", and probably less ...?

    If 1/4" wide, you could consider the $37.50 Veritas miniature shoulder plane: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...00&cat=1,41182

    The planes that I think are probably what you want are the Veritas detail rabbet planes ...



    These come in sizes from 1/4" - 3/8" .. and are $65 each.

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...08&cat=1,41182

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    It's in the budget to get a decent moving fillister and a rabbet plane and probably still have money left over, even if you get nice examples of both.

    Moving fillister will give you the ability to make a repeating cut and with a nicker to have a tidy top edge, and the rabbet will give you flexibility to work angles and such that the moving fillister doesn't like.
    Do what now? What planes are we talking about specifically? I'm seeing planes that individually cost over budget. Let alone buying both. I'm definitely interested! : )

  8. #23
    skew rabbet planes on ebay that look like a decent place to start (you do have to be able to sharpen a skew iron, which is better achieved freehand and by observation than by guide).



    351245062270


    231407146777 (personally, I think a 5/8" rabbet plane is narrow)


    I don't think you need a rabbet plane with a nicker. you can define your starts with a marking gauge and then just cut to them with a rabbet plane, and then turn the rabbet plane on its side to square up the rabbet after it's cut to depth. No need for side rabbet planes or any of that stuff, those are for dados and grooves, and not rabbets.



    151413177816

    (there are a couple of moving fillisters in active auctions, but I think with a moving fillister, you *do* want a nicker, I only see one decent example in the UK and shipping is high). Loose boxing that is complete can easily be glued with liquid hide glue. You might have to watch a couple of weeks to get a good subject moving fillister plane. One with a good iron, boxing that is at least there, fence, nicker still there, and depth stop.

    A few years ago, I got a moving fillister plane from fine tool journal's newsletter tool sale for $25. They described it as "dry". The boxing had worked loose from the plane, which was a quick reglue, true the side, sharpen the iron, oil the body (more for looks to make it look nice color again) and that was that.




  9. #24
    Woodcraft has their medium shoulder for $119 right now. Does anyone have any opinions on this? I watched a video by one of the forum users the other day that suggested it was a good tool. Does anyone have it? http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/154...der-plane.aspx

  10. #25
    Is this for cutting small rabbets or for shoulder work? If it's for shoulder work, I haven't used it but woodcraft has a generous return policy as far as I'm aware, and you can send it back if you don't like it.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by David Weaver View Post
    Is this for cutting small rabbets or for shoulder work? If it's for shoulder work, I haven't used it but woodcraft has a generous return policy as far as I'm aware, and you can send it back if you don't like it.
    This would be for rebates. I would probably give it a go on shoulders also until I get a router plane but frankly I don't do very much M&T work. I mostly build small boxes and and just starting to get into casing.

  12. #27
    I don't think you want a shoulder plane just for rebates. Metal planes are sticky, especially going across endgrain. And the aforementioned feeding issue. If you lived next door to me, I'd help you refurbish a $10 rabbet plane or a $50-$75 moving fillister.

    Shoulder planes are one of the #1 dust collectors among planes sold to people, because you cut a dozen or so grooves with them and realize that they're not really designed for that, from chip clearing to how they're supposed to be gripped. They do fine cleaning up a sloppily cut rabbet (where the focus isn't on removing much material), but they're not a great plane to cut rabbets with.

  13. #28
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    Here's My
    two cents.jpg.

    From the post that started this thread:

    I'm needing this to true up box lids that sit inside of the top and other similar things. Not really planning on using it for shoulders much. I just use a chisel for that work. The box tops are longer and need more precision than a standard BE chisel.
    This sounds like light trimming work. This is the kind of work a shoulder plane is very good at performing.

    If my understanding is wrong and Eric wants to cut deep and long rabbets, then a different plane might be indicated.

    My only worry about the Woodcraft listing is there isn't a spare blade listed with the plane. Maybe they list it somewhere else. It may just be me, but I like having spare blades for all my planes.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  14. #29
    Yeah, fine for light trimming - I missed that. (a rabbet plane would do that too, though, and give you the ability to cut rabbets. Shoulders are the only thing I can think of where I'd actually want a shoulder plane instead of a rabbet plane (I had two shoulder planes and no longer have any, and I haven't missed them...well, that's not totally, true, I do have infill shoulder planes that I don't use, but they look nice.).

  15. #30
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    Yeah, fine for light trimming - I missed that. (a rabbet plane would do that too, though, and give you the ability to cut rabbets.
    For the light trim jobs and even some jobs a little more involved my shoulder plane gets used. If there is a lot of material to be removed, then the bigger rabbets pop out of their holes.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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