Originally Posted by
Jason Roehl
A dehumidifier is an air conditioner that's not split so that it doesn't expel the heat to the outside. Otherwise, the only reason an A/C would dry the air faster is because it's a larger unit. One could argue that if you had an A/C and a dehumidifier that had the same amount of refrigerant, and same size motor, coils, condenser, compressor, etc. the dehumidifier would dry the air MORE because it would also raise the ambient temperature. Since warmer air can hold more moisture, the relative humidity would be lower..
This...As I work with our school district's energy program, about all I do during the summer is try to control humidity the cheapest way possible.
Looking at the climate data for Philly, except for Jan. & Feb. it almost mirrors our climate in eastern IA
Probably from about late May to mid October the goal is to eliminate water vapor. Dehumidifiers do this the best and are less expensive to run. If you are not going to be in there, then a dehumidifier, set @ 50%, hooked up to some sort of a drain, or a 33 gal trash can if there is no drain (we use 65gal containers in our schools) will do a great job. Then when you go in, you turn off the dehumidifier and turn on your A/C.
The room will warm up some when you are not in there, but that is not necessarily bad. Air changes temp quickly, cast iron,-not so much. Your tools will be a few degrees warmer than the air when you start working. Should any moist air come into the room you have that temp difference as a buffer for a while. When you leave, turn the dehumidifier back on.
In the winter time dehumidifiers are useless (at least in Iowa). The moist air passes through coils at about 45 degrees. So they exit the dehumidifier at 100% RH at 45*F, then mix with the rest of the air to lower the space RH. Probably the dew point of Nov-March air is already lower than 45* so the dehumidifier really doesn’t pull any water out. The solution, then, is to heat your tools. About 20 degrees above dew point is a good estimation of 50%RH. We worry about mold, so that is a number we look at a lot. Rust may not need that low of a RH, but if you have books or organic stuff in your shop you may want to keep that number in mind.
You said your shop is well sealed. If that is the case any size dehumidifier will work. As an example during a construction project on our HVAC, mold was a very real concern. Our high school media center (20m X 62m X 6m) full of books, upholstered furniture, and carpeting, was completely sealed off for the summer. All ducts were sealed. We started with several dehumidifiers, but after the first week, one 30 pint dehumidifier draining to a custodial mop basin kept the space at 40% RH during a very humid Iowa summer. The first couple of days it will pull the max water out, after that it will pull less and less until it equalizes.
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