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Thread: Newbie Vector Cutting HPL Materials

  1. #1

    Newbie Vector Cutting HPL Materials

    Hi,

    I'm extremely new to laser cutting. I just received an Epilog 24x12 40W laser just under two weeks ago and I love it, and I'm exploring the materials, but I'm having trouble with a material I really want to use. I'm interested in making earrings from old wood samples (the ones you take for flooring or house reno) since I have many from my interior designer sister.

    I know they come in different materials, like no-nos like vinyl, so I Google each one before I try cutting them, and I also contacted an Epilog Tech to confirm the materials. Most of the samples I have are HPL: High pressured laminate, and they're extremely thin, but I found they are ridiculously hard to cut, and leave bad chars on the side of the material if they are successfully cut. There would also be a ridiculously large laser tail (flame behind laser), which I'm extremely wary about, so I'm holding off using them for now.

    I don't know if it's because of the wrong settings, bad glue, bad material, etc. But I would really love to use them since they come colored and give me more options for my earring designs.

    This is generally vector cutting. I haven't actually rastered on them yet. I have had two successful cuts, but the cut sides would rub off black char, which I think is due to the glue.

    I read online that some people put masking tape on the top of the materials to decrease the flame ups, so I will try that. I already have air assist and have a fume extractor.

    I might be using the settings wrong as I heard that too high power/low speed/high freq could cause charring as well, so I have no idea what settings I should use, as I've tried a variety now, and they each seem to come out differently than the last.

    I also already cleaned the mirror and lens even though they weren't that dusty since I've only been using my cutter for just over a week.

    If anyone could give me suggestions on what I should do or expect, I'd really appreciate it.

    Thank you so much,

    Caroline Evans

  2. #2
    Caroline

    Welcome to SMC. My guess is that you'll never have any success with that material. Burning and charring could be caused by numerous things but most likely it's the make up of the material. It could be the glue also but there are so many materials that you can use I would just suggest asking your local plastics suppliers for samples. All have scrap bins and may give you some stuff or sell it at very low prices.

    If you'll list your location and your Epilog model in your signature somebody may offer some scraps.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  3. #3
    Hi Mike,

    Thanks for letting me know. I'll try a few other samples from different companies, and if they all don't work, then I guess I'm move on to scraps!

    I'll definitely need to change my signature.

    Thanks for your input,

    Caroline Evans

  4. #4
    HPL used for laminate flooring is a great material Caroline, VERY strong even when cut to thin sections BUT it blackens no matter what you do, to cut it well you need a high pressure air assist and even then it's not much fun (but worth it). Mikes right, it's the resin used to bond the paper in most cases that causes the problems.

    cheers

    Dave
    You did what !

  5. #5
    Yah, I really love the material. Since it was one of the first materials I tried cutting, the charring really worried me, since I was worried it would damage the machine, but knowing that it's normal for this type of material makes me a feel a bit better.

    I'll check to see if I have settings on my air assist to increase its power.

    The tech support from Epilog said it could have also been from choosing too high frequency while cutting it, so maybe I'll fiddle with the settings as well.

    I was able to cut two pieces earlier and I just adored how it turned out. The laser tail and the charring are just the problems for me.

    I'll agree with both of you that it's not a fun material to cut!!

    Thanks so much,

    Caroline Evans

  6. #6
    Try to lower the frequency and have it take multiple light cuts instead of trying to power through it in one cut.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  7. #7
    I agree with Scott.

    Up your speed slightly, lower the power significantly, and lower the frequency. 50% frequency is a good start point here I would say.
    Run multiple passes, just keep running the job until it cuts through.

    Alter your settings until combined with a reasonable amount of passes until you find a quality you are happy with.

    I have a series of thin bench top laminates that I cut this way, come in a incredible range of different finishes and colours.
    I've come to the stage that in order to reach a quality that I think is acceptable, it becomes quite uneconomical to cut due to the time it takes.
    But that's something I just have to discuss with the client, that if quality is important, then price is going to be through the roof. Most reasonable people will understand that.

    I've also been running an Epilog Fusion, and was in a very similar situation as to how you are now not very long ago.
    Came into the industry very green, without any knowledge at all.
    Feel free to contact me at any time Caroline with any questions and I can help you out.

    Kind Regards,
    Mitchell


    Cheers.
    Mitchell.
    Epilog Fusion 40 (60w)
    CAMaster CNC Router.
    Flame Polisher
    Range of sanders
    Drill Press
    Table Saw

  8. #8
    Hi Mitchell,

    Thanks for your advice! I'll fiddle with the speeds and power than and lower the frequency. I'm worried that some of the top finishes are fairly plastic-y, so they might not be the right material, but I'll have to fiddle around to find my fit for the ones that seem more right to cut. Luckily they're not extremely large designs so hopefully it won't take me too long each time.

    Yah, I'm going in this very cold turkey, so this is an extreme learning experience for me!!

    Thank you so much,

    Caroline Evans

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    South Elgin, IL
    Posts
    217
    I've cut some shapes from laminate counter top color chips on my 30W Trotec.
    I did it with only two or three passes - but I'd have to look on the design computer to see what the actual settings are. It also engraves and accepts paint very well. But my only experience so far is with black laminate.

    It takes several days of sitting in the open before the burnt smell goes away, so if you're making earrings I would keep that in mind before packaging and shipping any out to customers. The cut edge does retain black soot but it can be cleaned off with Windex.

    Are you gluing two pieces together so that you have the color or pattern on both sides?
    If you are, I would cut each side individually so it cuts quicker.
    Typically laminate only has decoration on one side.
    Last edited by Mayo Pardo; 12-10-2014 at 5:20 AM.
    Materials Conversion Specialist
    I take perfectly good large pieces of stuff & turn them into smaller pieces having dubious value

    LASER: Trotec Speedy 300 30 Watt, CNC: Shopbot PRT, Vinyl Cutter: Summa Sign Pro T750
    Old School: a tool box full of brand new sign painting brushes from the 60's


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