Benches made from BORG wood.....PICS/designs, tips, tricks, sock it to me!!!!!

[Chuck Nickerson]

What problems did you see with the 4 X 4s? Why do you need a 6" thick bench?

The 4x4's are 3-1/2 which means the top probably finishes to 3", maybe 3-1/4".
A ripped 2x12 gives you 5-1/2", which easily finishes to 4-1/2.

When making mine from 2x12's I used the 5-1/2" to work around edge knots, leaving me with good yield and an easy 4" top.

[David Castor]

I'll drop out of lurk mode briefly... I built a basic workbench using kiln-dried Douglas Fir from the local Home Depot. Since I live in Oregon, there is no SYP framing lumber availalble. I used 2x4s for the top - hand planed the faces prior to gluing, then I ripped off the curved edges with a bandsaw. I used a couple of 2 x 6s for each leg. I read a lot of recommendations to buy 2 x 12s and/or 4x4s and rip them down, but our local yards have no kiln-dried framing lumber larger than 2 x 6 - at least that I could find.

I had to sort through A LOT of sticks to find ones that were reasonably straight-grained and free of knots. I made a lot of trips to HD, sometimes getting only two or three 2 x 4s. The fir is soft and dents easily, the workbench seems heavy enough - it doesn't budge when planing. It was good experience - cut my first M & T joints, and got a lot of practice with my hand planes and chisels. But it took a long time. If there's a next time, I'll probably get a lunch box planer to help speed up the prep work a little.

Probably the first step is to see what your local store normally stocks then figure out your options for material.

Sorry about the divorce. But I'm always reminded of the Willie Nelson line: The reason why divorces are so expensive? They're worth it.

Good luck,

Dave

[Karl Andersson]

The shoulder vise does cause you to adjust your work and movements, but since my main bench is only about 18" wide, the extra width of the top and leg spacing for the shoulder vise side do add substantial stability against tipping. It's great for sawing dovetails and ripping. One more thing about the 4x4 top; at about 3 1/4 " thick, I've never had a problem getting Gramercy holdfasts to stick tight or to release when needed.

[John McBride]

Chris,
See, that's what I have been thinking too. While I am sure my OCD nature will require me to build a "proper" bench out of traditional hardwood, my needs right now are basic. That said, I want to build something that is pleasurable to work on as well as be useful, functional even after I move into larger accommodations. The BORG wood bench idea seems to tick those boxes nicely for me. Add to that the reduction in worry regarding any work related dings and dents, and I get even more excited about the prospect.

[Pinwu Xu]

Not mine, http://www.legacycrests.com/bobanddavebench.html

I built one similar, tho.

And a pdf I just found, seems originated from Bob: http://www.picnicpark.org/keith/wood...apBench-ne.pdf

[Richard Hutchings]

How does that end vise work for holding boards. Seems like it would flare out when you tighten it. Or do you just use it in the way you've shown?

[Judson Green]

How does that end vise work for holding boards. Seems like it would flare out when you tighten it. Or do you just use it in the way you've shown?

My end vise is more or less the same as Harold's. It flaring or torquing is only a problem when using it as a front vise, at least IMO.

Nice bench Harold!

[Judson Green]

Heres mine built most with BORG stuff. 2×4's for the top on edge with maple on the 3 exposed sides. ½" plywood for the cabinet under.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ch-top-is-done

IMAG1744.jpg

[Justin Green]

I built a bench from 1-by SYP that I had left over from a flooring project. I think the boards were 5.5" by 3/4". I glued up 32 or so of them and ended up with a 4" thick top after the ugly glue-up was flattened. Used 4x4 cedar posts for the legs with 2x6 cedar stretchers. It is a remarkably ugly bench, but can take a licking. I will eventually make a better base for it, but as a backup bench it is great. Never had an issue with the cedar legs, though after years of use they might develop. All the lumber I had on hand, so that's what I used.

[Chris Hachet]

I built a bench from 1-by SYP that I had left over from a flooring project. I think the boards were 5.5" by 3/4". I glued up 32 or so of them and ended up with a 4" thick top after the ugly glue-up was flattened. Used 4x4 cedar posts for the legs with 2x6 cedar stretchers. It is a remarkably ugly bench, but can take a licking. I will eventually make a better base for it, but as a backup bench it is great. Never had an issue with the cedar legs, though after years of use they might develop. All the lumber I had on hand, so that's what I used.

I have seen amazing work come off of ugly benches and ugly work come off of amazing benches. Half the fun of building something is building something better at some point in the future IMHO.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

Made of SYP, based on Benchcrafted's Split Roubo, but simple vise configuration.


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[Chris Hachet]

Made of SYP, based on Benchcrafted's Split Roubo, but simple vise configuration.


three.jpgfour.jpg

Very impressive. I like it!

[Richard Hutchings]

Makes sense. I'm tempted to remove my tail vise and add one like these. Mostly because I did such a @&^y job of installing it and I'm not sure I could do it better if I tried again. I think I should have made the vise part out of maple but I couldn't find a good set of instructions so I winged it. It works though.

[Richard Hutchings]

+1 on that. I will have to stop myself from building a copy of it.

[Paul Saffold]

John, look in the " Neanderthal Sticky” (top the neander forum) then go to Wisdom-FAQs. There are numerous benches shown there with a wealth of information and ideas to adapt to your own needs and abilities.
Except for the white oak for the leg chop and strip with the dog holes, mine is made of Douglas fir and SYP. Both from home centers.
Paul