Economical Straight edge recommendations

[Brian Holcombe]

Do we really need accuracy of .001 over 2 feet for woodworking?

For me there are some things that really need to be accurate and others that just need to look or feel right. For example, if a table top looks flat, it is flat.

I'm not saying we do or don't need this, I'm trying to figure out when and why a woodworker might need a highly accurate long straight edge.

Daniel, I build a reference edge or reference edges perpendicular to one another then use those for the remainder of the process when dimensioning lumber at the start of a project.

In the process of building I'm going to create various joinery that all works off of these reference points in conjunction with 90 degree end grain cuts.

Also, so, stuff like sliding dovetails, long through tenons, halving joints and large bridle joints all gain accuracy from starting with precision surfaces.

Yes you you can match plane, but that doesn't do a whole lot for you if you are making two curved edges or if you are not joining the peices together, like making table legs, table edges, skirts, ect.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent precision straight edge at a value price? I trust Veritas, and will buy their aluminum straight edges if there are no alternatives, but it's hard to resist the Empire products for their price.

I am getting better at jointing my own from wood, but I would like a reliable reference for those times I need to recalibrate.

I bought 3/8 x 2 x 36 precision ground tool steel beams to use for accurate work, I have three of them and use them all the time. I check them after receiving, one was out .020", so just a heads up that the advertising doesn't always mean precision on arrival.

I also have have an empire 8' beam that I straightened to .003" over 8', but it was out .030" before that.

David's method will produce an incredibly straight edge and will do so for not much more than sweat equity invested in producing it.

[Sean Hughto]

FWIW, I have found the 38" Veritas the most useful and convenient. It stands on it's own, unlike thin "ruler" versions. I use it to prep stock, level panels, flatten tables, etc. I've never wished for more. It's price is very reasonable too. I personally can't see buying some other thing to save $20. YMMV

[Mike Holbrook]

Another thing or two to think about. Those of us who need to place an accurate line on a curved surface may need a flexible plastic ruler to do it, as a regular straight edge is useless. It was interesting to watch Peter Galbert in a class I took recently. Peter's educational background is in art. Peter has an uncanny ability to illustrate things. Part of this ability is an ability to see, judge and feel distances and proportions. Peter frequently hand drew lines at a given distance without measuring. I checked him several times, he was always spot on. It was a little freaky to me and I have an art minor.

Those who have read "By Hand and Eye" or at least have some cognizance of the precepts, might also find accuracy is sometimes less important than proportionality.

[steven c newman]

Been using this one for a long timeIMAG0068.jpgnot even sure who made it. Just a common framing square.
straightedge.jpg
Used it to check a sole I was planning flat. Had a bit more to do, according to the square, so
IMAG0067.jpg
Maybe i got the thing flat

Just go and check out a Framing square, check it to make sure it is straight and true. Plus, you can use it for a lot of other tasks, too......

[Chuck Hart]

Anyway, getting back to the question asked not a debate on precision. You can get great stuff from PEC Tools. Rated "Best Value" by FWW

[glenn bradley]

Anyway, getting back to the question asked not a debate on precision. You can get great stuff from PEC Tools. Rated "Best Value" by FWW

+1 on PEC but, I have the 36" steel Veritas and dad has the 24". Both have been great for reference and for machine setup.

[Darrell LaRue]

I've seen a couple of comments regarding wood movement and precision measurement, and I think that's about where I'm at. Wood moves so much that the 0.001" precision you strove for is lost in a matter of hours.

I have a straight-enough-edge that I use when jointing stock. It's an aluminum bar 1/2 X 2 1/2 X 52 inches. It's not precise, but it works fine for wood. The stuff I make looks great, you'd never tell it might be out by several thousandths of an inch. Oh my!

Darrell
wood moves!