Darker Engravings

[John Noell]

The (true) mahogany we grow in Fiji is pretty light and engraves pretty dark. We also have a lot of "raintree" (Albiza sp.) that engraves pretty darkly. It really seems to depend on the type of wood. We have a nice really light wood ('kauvula' - which translates as "white wood") that won't turn dark at all. It's like the laser just makes it evaporate.
Waldorf Sample.jpg

[Bert Kemp]

I like that wonder if I can find it in 3mm sheets.

[Bert Kemp]

I like the BB because its cheap, like I've said before I give most of my stuff to Veterans and I can't afford good stuff as I'm retired on SS myself .

[Glen Monaghan]

I haven't tried it on BB. I've been using woods similar to rosewood which tend to darken when engraved, but not always or not as much as I want. I can take three apparently identical pieces of wood and one will engrave with almost black contrast, one with zero contrast, and the third somewhere in between - darkened but not great contrast. The wood is finished (typically either lacquered or waxed) before engraving and I'm just trying to add a bit of contrast by darkening the engraved areas. I just apply the stain and immediately wipe away but I, too, have noticed that sometimes there are fine grain/vein lines that take on some of the darkness despite the finish coat. However, I find that preferable to low contrast in the engraved areas. Some of my engraving has included lettering with characters about .07-0.1 inches high, so the contrast was very helpful for better legibility.

[Glen Monaghan]

Maybe you can work a deal with a cabinet shop or the like for scrap pieces that would work for you, or contact some sort of VA group and see if there is some kind of grant funds available for the type of work you do. You could provide them samples and ask if they could fund materials purchase.

[joe alcathie]

have you tried prefinished (uv coated) plywood? A lot of cabinet companies use it for the interiors of their cabinets. It is available in from 5.2mm to 18mm. Some will still come out pretty light and on those we simply use some shoe polish and with the coated finish it wipes off very easily...a matter of seconds to wipe on and off.

[Bill George]

Bert, I got some aromatic red cedar off eBay that was kind of pricey and its 5/16 thick. By the time it gets sanded smooth and all its about 1/4 inch thick. It cuts and engraves nicely on the laser after a spray coat of lacquer. . I would hit the cabinet or finish carpenter shops and ask for donations like suggested. Its going to a very worthy cause.

[Don Corbeil]

I've had similar challenges with birch and poplars, where it just doesn't get that dark burned in look I want. I've had most success slowing the speed way down and using a 1000 ppi setting (on my trotec), then using a second pass with a vertical (portrait) orientation. The two pass alternating landscape/portrait 'cross engraving' really seems to help burn it in more. I've also started to use cedar more for those wood projects that need a darker engrave. Problem with cedar is its grain - it is very dominant and that poses yet another challenge.

[Mike Null]

Bert

You might consider contacting George Perzel (member here) for wood thins. He has cherry walnut mahogany and maple at very reasonable prices. It is unfinished and rough sanded. I've used a good bit of it and recommend it highly.

[Bert Kemp]

Thanks for all the suggestions, I think I'll hit up some of the cabinet shops and see what I can come up with, the shoe polish Idea is something I might try also. I'd like to stay with 3mm and one pass if possible the Idea about cross graining pass's one vertical and one horizontal I'm not sure how to do that. I have some cedar and I know about the grain problem , LOL it sometimes looks like waves after its engrave, to many hard and soft veins I guess. But does darken nicely. Haven't found it in 3mm either tho . Maybe George has some .